I have asked about this problem several times before but didn't get the answer I was really trying to get. My uncle said there is a thing down by the wastegate that can crank up the boost and on my dad's T3 he had a couple little bleeder valves inline from the wastegate to the outlet of the turbo. My SVO didn't have these. It had a straight hose from the turbo to the wastegate. I think the diaphragm in the wastegate actuator is messed up because everything was tight and secure and it boosted 1 psi. I don't think it's letting the boost spool up enough. There is also an annoying noise when I rev it and then it lets off. It is like a zzzzzz noise if anyone understands that. Any suggestions about the bleeder valve or the zzzzzz? Thanks alot
Wastegate???
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Stinger
Founding Member
The svo came stock with a boost control solenoild that controlled boost. It sounds like yours is bypassed.
Take the hose off the turbo (but leave it on the actuator) and blow into it with your mouth...if you can't blow into it, the actuator is fine.
If that checks out ok (which it should, a bad diaphragm causes an overboost condition), then grab the rod coming out of the back of the actuator and make sure it's connected to the wastegate flapper (in the exhaust elbow on the back of the turbo). If not, put it on there. If so, make sure it is tight...not flopping around or holding partially open.
Hooked up as it is you should get around 10psi.
Take the hose off the turbo (but leave it on the actuator) and blow into it with your mouth...if you can't blow into it, the actuator is fine.
If that checks out ok (which it should, a bad diaphragm causes an overboost condition), then grab the rod coming out of the back of the actuator and make sure it's connected to the wastegate flapper (in the exhaust elbow on the back of the turbo). If not, put it on there. If so, make sure it is tight...not flopping around or holding partially open.
Hooked up as it is you should get around 10psi.
Stinger
Founding Member
It's bypassed because the vac lines are no longer connected to it. You said it's going from the turbo to the wg actuator...that means the bcs is bypassed. To "fix" that, hook the vac lines back up correctly (diagrams are available in a search on here or google). You would be much happier just using a boost controller from www.boostvalve.com though.
The loose rod can be fixed...I'm not going to explain it until you verify if it is the problem or not though (and check the actuator diaphragm as mentioned).
The loose rod can be fixed...I'm not going to explain it until you verify if it is the problem or not though (and check the actuator diaphragm as mentioned).
ok, I found the article on the vacuum lines posted by slugstang I think. My set up is all out of order if this one is correct. My boost solenoid isn't even connected to me wastegate actuator. It is connected from inlet of turbo to the other line in the inlet for the turbo. But why is my car boosting the way it is set up. It boosts like 8 or 9 lbs. with the hose from the turbo to wastegate a little loose. If it's tight, then it boosts 1 lb. I don't know who messed with this before me but they must have really messed it all up.
If this diagram is for a turbo coupe, that may be the problem. There is a "T" Fitting on the outlet on my turbo. One side goes to the wastegate and the other to the boost solenoid. The "T" Fitting on the inlet of my turbo goes to the solenoid and the other one goes to the oil breather on the valve cover. The diagram shows a total of 4 vacuum fittings on the turbo and one for the oil breather and then the one for the wastegate on the actuator. I only have three vacuum line fittings. Sorry I am bothering everyone about this but my car is running like crap.
If this diagram is for a turbo coupe, that may be the problem. There is a "T" Fitting on the outlet on my turbo. One side goes to the wastegate and the other to the boost solenoid. The "T" Fitting on the inlet of my turbo goes to the solenoid and the other one goes to the oil breather on the valve cover. The diagram shows a total of 4 vacuum fittings on the turbo and one for the oil breather and then the one for the wastegate on the actuator. I only have three vacuum line fittings. Sorry I am bothering everyone about this but my car is running like crap.
Stinger
Founding Member
leave the ones on the inlet of the turbo alone, take the two lines that are coming off the compressor housing and make one go to the actuator and plug off the other one for now...you should get 8-10psi. If that's the case we will go from there.
Stinger
Founding Member
I didn't say leave the other one alone...I said to plug it off.
When are you going to get a gillis valve, remove all that useless vac line crap, and be done with it?
When are you going to get a gillis valve, remove all that useless vac line crap, and be done with it?
Stinger
Founding Member
So I assume you weren't testing things as I told you how? I told you how to test the actuator 4 days ago 
How did you come to the conclusion that it was the actuator...doesn't sound like it was to me if it was boosting 10psi. Bad actuators cause 25+psi boost.
Don't fool yourself into believing the "bleeder" valve you can make at home depot is the same as a gillis valve.
How did you come to the conclusion that it was the actuator...doesn't sound like it was to me if it was boosting 10psi. Bad actuators cause 25+psi boost.
Don't fool yourself into believing the "bleeder" valve you can make at home depot is the same as a gillis valve.
Well the way we handle problems around here is with our brains and smarts. We just don't run off and buy some ten cent gadget that someone is really selling for fifty dollars online. Why dont you tell me how the bad actuators cause an overload of boost. I had it connected properly and tight and I had one PSI. I loosen the hose on the actuator and I have my boost back so the real boost is leaking out somewhere. My solenoid is connected properly and the diagram online was wrong and most of this stuff was for the turbo coupe and not the SVO. Turbo coupes are arranged differently when it comes to vacuum lines. Maybe the diaphragm in the actuator is busted and when everything is secure the boost leaks out to give me one PSI but when I loosen the hose it acts as your "BLEEDER VALVE" that you said was no good and it lets me boost up to ten lbs.
Stinger
Founding Member
Why don't you go back up to the top of this thread, read how I told you to test your actuator diaphragm, tell me what the results are, and go from there.
I'm not going any farther until you do that (which should have been done nearly a week ago).
I'm not going any farther until you do that (which should have been done nearly a week ago).
Do you know what the freakin diaphragm consists of? Well the diaphragm for one thing and a spring that pushes it out to activate the wastegate. Well if the spring is broke it's not going to take that much boost to push the diaphragm open because it doesn't have all of it's strength. A bad diaphragm probably does make an overboost but the actuator itself needs to be replaced. Oh and with the gillis valve, where does the boost go when the spring closes shut. The wastegate must stay open for a few more seconds because it doesn't have anywhere to escape like the stock one does. After boost goes through it and opens it it closes trapping the boost in there and causing a delay in the wastegate closing. Soooooooo...I think my three way bleeder valve is the way to go. Hook it up like the gillis but plum the thrid line into the inlet of the turbo. Thanks for all of the information though
Stinger
Founding Member
The gillis has a very small hole to relieve pressure when the spring closes...
A bleeder valve is a POS compared to a ball and spring valve.
I won't help you any more with the actuator questions until you check yours to see if is bad (as I mentioned how to do previously and suggested 3 times now).
A bleeder valve is a POS compared to a ball and spring valve.
I won't help you any more with the actuator questions until you check yours to see if is bad (as I mentioned how to do previously and suggested 3 times now).
Stinger
Founding Member
How do you know it's the spring? Can you move the arm back and forth easily?
If so...replace the actuator...simple enough.
If so...replace the actuator...simple enough.
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