i just picked up an 86 hatch yesterday and thought the battery was bad so i replaced it (it was old and gave me piece of mind as well) but that wasnt the issue. it has a mini starter already. the issue is that the starter engages but will not fully turn the motor over. usually after 5 or so attempts it will finally turn the motor over and start. It doesnt seem to be the solenoid since the bendix is actually engaging, its just lacking the power to actually turn over. I have a couple more grounds to clean but in the mean time i am wondering if this could be the starter going bad?
Weak Starter Even When Cold
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Why not replace the starter anyway? You don't know how long it's been there and if it was a weak battery it puts a strain on them. Make sure cables are the right size, clean and tight. That includes grounds, there a more than just the battery to block grounds to worry about.
Give some info on the car,
Give some info on the car,
^ what he said. If you don't know the history on the car, get a repair manuel on it, not a autostore on every corner generic 79 thru 86 ford backyard book. If you are serious, look online and get a assmbly manual, or similar, most people have good intentions, still things turn into 'hack' jobs so they can get rid of a problem they didn't have the skill/patients to fix correctly.
Sorry, had too much coffee already.
Sorry, had too much coffee already.
i gave no info on the car because its a hodge podge job anyways lol. its an 86 4cyl car that was converted to v8. it has a mild built carb 289 in it. i just cleaned the ground on the block and both ends of the ground strap that goes from the bell housing to the firewall. problems persists.
why dont i just change the starter anyways?? throwing parts at something is usually the most expensive, least educational way of attacking a problem. the proper procedure is to diagnose the problem then replace the parts that are indicated.
why dont i just change the starter anyways?? throwing parts at something is usually the most expensive, least educational way of attacking a problem. the proper procedure is to diagnose the problem then replace the parts that are indicated.
I really want to respond to that but I won't, I have some respect for the others on here, so go diagnose your problem, then let me know what you find.
I guess I responded anyway, oowell.
I assume you have tested the starter relay. Remove starter wire and have someone turn key to start. With a digital multimeter you should have continuity each and every time.
The starter circuit is simple on the pre-90 cars. One wore from solenoid to the starter, and the motor grounds on the engine.
Check to see that your engine ground is present, as without this would cause your symptoms.
If you have an engine ground present, and good wiring from battery to solenoid and solenoid to starter, then I'd go ahead and change out the starter then
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The starter circuit is simple on the pre-90 cars. One wore from solenoid to the starter, and the motor grounds on the engine.
Check to see that your engine ground is present, as without this would cause your symptoms.
If you have an engine ground present, and good wiring from battery to solenoid and solenoid to starter, then I'd go ahead and change out the starter then
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- Dec 19, 2010
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I had a buddy that worked at Hi-Lo back before Oreilly bought them out. Back in the 80s. They had a starter testing bench with a big vise to clamp the starter in and run it. He kept a broom handle to wedge into the starter gear to see if the starter was getting weak. I watched him do it many times. He said that people made the mistake of calling the starter good if it just ran with no load.. but if it's a good starter, that sucker will make sawdust out of a broom handle. I've tried that technique many times in the garage with my vise, a set of jumper cables and a broom stick.
It'll tell you the truth in a hurry.
It'll tell you the truth in a hurry.
I noticed you said you checked the ground from bellhousing to body. That ground need to be bolted to the head or intake, not the bellhousing. JMO
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Do you want to test the starter? That's how real parts store guys did it before they had to stare at a screen drooling and ask you if you have air conditioning...i have not tested continuity on the relay but assumed since the starter is engaging (just lacks the power to spin the motor) that the relay was fine. is it possible for the relay to activate but somehow have enough resistance to not allow enough power through?
I have cleaned all of the grounds (I will check on moving the body ground to the head/intake) all that is left are the power wires on the starter itself. When the parts store tests them, can they check to see how they perform under load or do they simply say "passed" if it spins?
Mike, thanks for the schematic! The "engine ground" that you refer to, are you talking about from the battery to the block? I have that, it seems to be a newer cable and is in good condition (just sanded/cleaned all terminals this morning). I do not seem to have a block to frame ground (just the bellhousing to firewall)...
I have cleaned all of the grounds (I will check on moving the body ground to the head/intake) all that is left are the power wires on the starter itself. When the parts store tests them, can they check to see how they perform under load or do they simply say "passed" if it spins?
Mike, thanks for the schematic! The "engine ground" that you refer to, are you talking about from the battery to the block? I have that, it seems to be a newer cable and is in good condition (just sanded/cleaned all terminals this morning). I do not seem to have a block to frame ground (just the bellhousing to firewall)...
- Dec 19, 2010
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That's the point I was trying to make. Most of the idiots now a days won't or can't load test it. If you have a vise, some jumper cables and a board or broom stick you can do it yourself and let the dummies at the parts store ask dumb questions.
There is the neg terminal of the battery that connects to the block, and another ground that runs from head to firewall. It may also connect to a bellhousing bolt as the bolt passes into the block.
Barring any loose connection, if that's all intact then the starter should crank.
If starter engages each time, then solenoid is prob ok.
After checking the wiring, I'd prob test/replace the starter at that point.
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Barring any loose connection, if that's all intact then the starter should crank.
If starter engages each time, then solenoid is prob ok.
After checking the wiring, I'd prob test/replace the starter at that point.
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LOL
well i think my wife found the problem... i asked her to come try to start it while i check batt voltage. started like 10 times in a row, i tried and got the same results i always do. turns out that if the key is turned ALL the way, power stops being sent, if turned only partially, it cranks everytime! I will try that for a bit and see if thats all it is.
well i think my wife found the problem... i asked her to come try to start it while i check batt voltage. started like 10 times in a row, i tried and got the same results i always do. turns out that if the key is turned ALL the way, power stops being sent, if turned only partially, it cranks everytime! I will try that for a bit and see if thats all it is.
Plasic pucks inside the drive mechanism, you can get'em at the zone, remove motor and then two more little bolts and the cover over the gear then you'll see the crud that used to be little round pucks, clean it, replace the pucks with some grease, grease up the window tracks while your there and you'll be good to go.
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