Went to the Track, Have some problems and questions.

[Stangninjak]

Well took her to the track for the first time since I got the engine in and everything done there. I knew going in that the ol topdloader would have problems shifting into second. problems I had after were....well not plan. The car seems to pull HARD RIGHT. I had to fight it half way down the track, and just get off it. It seems that my diff is broken. Friend said I was getting a one wheel peel. Also the sawing in the streering wheel did not help, but seems magnified 5x at the track. Heh also it seems that the front end just would not come back when I punched it....it went up and and I seemed to have a lot of roll, left, right in the car.

So....questions.

1. I know the rear needs a diff, and I also do not know the gear size. So a true trac or locker ? Street car with some track stuff is what I am doing, so what would be better ?

2. The old steering box has to go. I have thought about a TCP manual rack, or a randall's rack. I know the randalls is supposed to be good, but I was wondering if anyone has the manual TCP ? Its supposed to be around 1200$ The last option is a new steering box from flaming river I guess. About 450ish.. anyone try that, or know of another place for a steering box ?

3. Well the front end..heh the same shocks are there, I have no ideal of the age. So I guess I can start there. I think it has a shelby drop springs or 620's..what about the rest. Whats recomended to get the front end together ?

4. Lastly, my back rim stick out from the fender wells. They are torque thrust d's 7inch. But they seem to just not fit the car correctly. they were on the car when I bought it. Question, is anyone running the 15x8.5 on their 65 coupe ? I think getting a set of those for the back will be real nice. I have a 9inch rear end btw.

Hope you old school guys can give me some advice ! On a good note, she has plenty of power, and the engine seemed to want to go on my two passes. Well hopefully I can get the bugs out so I can do a real run.

thanx in advance

 

[302 coupe]

If you're only spinning one wheel, put in a locker, if both tires are spinning the same speed it will be be far less likely to veer right. Look in your ford manual and read how to adjust your steering box properly. It might be really worn out, or it might tighten up nicely with a simple and free adjustment. Worth a shot at least. You rear wheels may not fit properly because of the rear end width. There are only a few cars that have a narrow enough rear to fit an early mustang properly. At any rate, get under there and measure it up before you buy new wheels so you'll know what backspacing to get. The front feels 'light' because the suspension is extended which throws off your toe and camber settings, normally its ok since the dragstrip is a straight line. If you have to saw the wheel to go straight, you probably have a problem somewhere else, lol.

 

[reenmachine]

Man, posts like this scare me. Lotsa work done on the engine with little attantion paid to safety (handling, driveability, etc.). What kind of brakes are on the car? If you keep up with the "go fast" mods w/o paying attention to the rest of the package you'll kill yourself or someone else right quick.

OK, end of lecture. Rack & pinion steering would be a great upgrade. The FR box is nice, but I suspect you need to replace more than the box (tie rods, etc.) and by the time you get done with all of that you'd be much happer with R&P anyway. The Randall's Rack is very nice, and I have heard that he will make you a manual setup if you ask. Could be cheaper yet. I think manual R&P would be good for you -- that engine's not too heavy, you'll have no power-robbing pump, and it will have a nice, secure, tight feel at speed on the dragstrip.

Check the Dodgestang tire charts for wheel fitment. (do a search)

If the car is mostly street-driven a locker may bug you. A posi may be the trick. What makes you think your diff is broken? Are you sure you don't just have an open diff?

 

[Stangninjak]

If the car is mostly street-driven a locker may bug you. A posi may be the trick. What makes you think your diff is broken? Are you sure you don't just have an open diff?

Well truthfully I do not know. I do not think it is an open diff, but I will crack the whole thing open and see. Nice lecture of safety..thats why I shut her down and just parked it for the rest of the night. You are correct, thats why I am getting some answers/opion from here from guys who have been around for a bit.

The steering box is shot. I saw a post hee on how to tighten, and I went to my book, (chilton) and did what they said. heh it was nice steering for about 10 minutes....then it went right back to what it was..and trust me I have tighten untighten, until my wrists went cramp. I will talk to Randall about a manual rack, though he did not seem to up on it..but truthfully I did not really get into it with him to go strictly manual.

thanx.

 

[dbfarr]

Steering box

---The FR box is nice, but I suspect you need to replace more than the box (tie rods, etc.) and by the time you get done with all of that you'd be much happer with R&P anyway.---

Reenmachine

Exactly what happened to me. If you are interested in the R&P solution, then don't hesitate. I started with rebuilding the p/s, failed. I went to manual with flaming river box, worked good, wife drove over planters, cashed the alignment every two weeks. I bought the Randall's rack and have been much, much, happier. Of course, lots of money went that way. In the sense of regrets, this concept ranks pretty high; especially when I could have been buying other goodies... t-5 conversion, rear end, aluminum heads, etc, etc, and etc.

I hear that roller perches and a 1.75 upper control arm drop with modified or tubular UCA's makes a massive difference.

I didn't go for heim joint strut rods either, I just used the moog bushings and called it for now. Now the car doesn't pull randomly on braking anymore, which is real nice.

I'm rambling, need to eat something. I guess my point is, do some research, at least as much as you did before putting your engine together... it'll really pay off.

 

[Stangninjak]

thanx DB. Thats what I am doing now..Lots of research before I spend money on something worthless. Randall's or TCP manual rack looks more and more like the way to go. I will start in the front and work my way back.

 

[BornInAFord]

My opinion: Rack and pinion steering is sexy, nice to have and seems to be a popular suggestion these days. However, I will point out that if you do the math, a simple rebuild plus replacing common parts is much less expensive than going with a R&P, especially if you have manual steering. You can get your steering box rebuilt from stangersite with a 2 year warranty for ~$150, and can replace inner and outer tie-rods plus sleeves (actually a whole steering "kit" for under $200 from Mustangs Plus. Get a roller idler arm and check out Opentracker's site, 2bav8, HistoricMustangand Darkbuddha for other suspension ideas. Spend the $800-1000 you save on other upgrades like better brakes, a good aligment, trac-lock rear, better brakes and other suspension mods, and leave the R&P for magazine buildups. Again, this is my opinion. R&P is a good solution, but I think you'd be surprised how well an upgraded stock-style steering system would work.

Daniel

 

[2bav8]

BornInAFord,

That pretty much sums up my opinion!

 

[Stangninjak]

My opinion: Rack and pinion steering is sexy, nice to have and seems to be a popular suggestion these days. However, I will point out that if you do the math, a simple rebuild plus replacing common parts is much less expensive than going with a R&P, especially if you have manual steering. You can get your steering box rebuilt from stangersite with a 2 year warranty for ~$150, and can replace inner and outer tie-rods plus sleeves (actually a whole steering "kit" for under $200 from Mustangs Plus. Get a roller idler arm and check out Opentracker's site, 2bav8, HistoricMustangand Darkbuddha for other suspension ideas. Spend the $800-1000 you save on other upgrades like better brakes, a good aligment, trac-lock rear, better brakes and other suspension mods, and leave the R&P for magazine buildups. Again, this is my opinion. R&P is a good solution, but I think you'd be surprised how well an upgraded stock-style steering system would work.

Daniel

Interesting. I will look into some of what you just mention here. I have good brakes up front, Disc, and the oversize drums out back. I need to do the rear though, and I am finding that the trac lock is going to cost me about 450~up..That's why I post here. Some good advice on many things, and people will come foward with their ideals on things they have actually tried and used. I am going to do some more research, and go with what will work best over the long haul. Thanx for your insight on this.

 

[Decurion]

Regarding your rear end issue, what about a Detroit 'Soflocker'? I dont have any experience with it, or know anyone who has, but just by the name it may be a good way to go without the annoying cluck/noise of a typical locker. Hopefully someone with experience can chime in about it.

 

[Robdogg67]

Have your rear springs been replaced? If not, get some 4.5 leafs with poly shackle bushings (good cost effective swap) and eventually get the Caltrac traction system. For the diff, I would recommend the True-Trac. It's a great setup and you can buy online for around $355. The backend will then be good and you'll hookup all that torque from your 351W.

 

[Stangninjak]

Have your rear springs been replaced? If not, get some 4.5 leafs with poly shackle bushings (good cost effective swap) and eventually get the Caltrac traction system. For the diff, I would recommend the True-Trac. It's a great setup and you can buy online for around $355. The backend will then be good and you'll hookup all that torque from your 351W.

Hmm ok. I have not done the rear at all yet, and this sounds like a sound ideal. I have caltracs on the back now, but the leaf's were there when I bought the car. I had looked at replacing them, because I thought there might have been an issue with them. When I bought the car, my plan was to do the susp first..then the engine went B O O M, so I did it first instead. I went to the track because I wanted to know where the car stood susp wise..and heh did I find out..

Some good stuff here. Keep it comming !

BorninaFord:Heh thanx for those site links. LOT OF GOOD INFO there.

 

[geostang351]

For the diff, I would recommend the True-Trac. It's a great setup and you can buy online for around $355. The backend will then be good and you'll hookup all that torque from your 351W.

Where on line can this be bought for $355? IS this for the locker itself or installed on a third member?

 

[Robdogg67]

Just for the TT unit itself, I picked one up about 2 months ago and had Summit pricematch when I placed another big order.