What Cam? Street car, bolt ons, NO heads,...

GeorgeORH

New Member
Apr 7, 2011
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Putting a cam in my engine before it goes back into the mustang (91).

This car is ONLY a street car for recreation driving (nice days, for the pure joy of it). So no BIG cams please.

Details of car.
STOCK heads
Stock hydraulic lifters
Stock valve springs, ect.

Long Tube Headers, H pipe, Flowmasters
Larger MAF
Edlebrock Throttlebody
Holly Systemax upper lower intakes
MSD stuff
Stock bore (302)
373 gears
5 speed- t5Z

Yes I want the lopey sound ( I understand to stay at a 112 and up for EFI).

I want to keep LOW_MID range, The top end of the RPM's is not something that I am concerned with. I like torque down low.

I have been looking at Lunati cams
51014LUN
and one on ebay is a 11021

Do I need to upgrade the springs or such????

I've read myself to death trying to research everything. Just wanting some help on here , please...
Thanks.!
 
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Well alot of things I read say the the e303,f303 are dated and that there are much better cams out there?

The idea of what you are interested in doing doesn't make sense.
You want a cam for the sound, but you are then concerned about it being dated. None of the non outdated cams are going to work well with stock heads, in fact no cam really does.
IMO, just leave it be until you buy heads so you don't have to do this job twice or waste money on springs for stock heads.

I also don't think the E is all that bad.
 
The idea of what you are interested in doing doesn't make sense.
You want a cam for the sound, but you are then concerned about it being dated. None of the non outdated cams are going to work well with stock heads, in fact no cam really does.
IMO, just leave it be until you buy heads so you don't have to do this job twice or waste money on springs for stock heads.

I also don't think the E is all that bad.

Well put. lopey idle with so so guts hmm you will kick yourself for not changing the heads, really kick yourself. if you have driven a fox with a head change and even a simple one like 40's or "P"s what a difference let alone a set of good aluminums. you are so close to doing a head change when doing the cam swap..like 20 bolts away my friend.
 
I know Buddy Rawls (custom camshaft guy) likes messing with stock type stuff (E7 heads, intake, etc.). That is about the only camshaft (outside of an advanced TFS-1 camshaft, strickly due to to cheap cost) I would recommend. In fact, if you scrap up another few hundred $$$, you can get a decent aluminum head (comes with new valvetrain) and make more power and have better driveability.

Of course, you won't have the lope, but you will have a deeper sound and more power. Nice sleeper. :)
 
I like the idea of cast iron vs aluminum for what I am doing with the car.

Why?

Im having a hard time understanding your logic here, and it looks like you are going to take the path of most resistance and buy everything twice.

Id suggest you keep the stock cam and put a S-trim, or a turbo on it.
 
I should have mentioned that I'm not a fan of forced induction. I've had turbo, twin turbo, supercharger cars and I really want to stay NA on this one.

While i fully understand the NA choice, if that's the case purchase better aluminum heads, 50lbs less and 40rwhp more (than p's) means alot in a 3200lb car.
It's the difference between being barely able to keep up with a newer mustang and outrunning one.

I know there are plenty of guys running gt40p heads, but at this point where new cars are so much quicker, i wouldn't use a set of p's if you gave them to me for free. They are more of a mod that makes your car less slow, not faster.
 
if you want it to run like a small cam, leave the stock cam in it. if you want it to sound like it has a big cam in it, put one in it, but know that you will loose low end. back in the mid 90s i had an e cam in a stock longblock. it didnt start to run until 2500 rpm. there is no free lunch.
 
I've been running a "ported" set of E7 heads and an e303 cam for a couple years. Did'nt have $$ for new heads. nice lope,good power for what it is. :shrug:Buy some heads if u can. Only way to go.
 
All these guys have givin you good advice and I agree that if you are throwing a cam in, it would not be a bad idea to look for some cheap gt40 heads to throw on while you're doing the cam swap...ultimately its the best way to go (POWER WISE)....however, if you like the performance level you are at and are only looking for a lopey sound...throw an e-cam in there and button it up. You will not gain much power (if any) and you're car will sound pretty healthy. I ran an ecam with a stock short block for years way back in the day and it ran pretty good. That was a speed density car too haha. You can find e-cams for almost nothing these days.

I would swap the heads just because it makes sense to do so...but there's nothing wrong with throwing in a cam....don't expect much of a performance increase.....if you do the heads too....EXPECT a nice increase in performance
 
nothing like a lopey sounding mustang without the power to back it up....:rolleyes:

Don't do it OP; that's a lot of work for just a sound mod. Save up for some heads and do it all while it's apart the first time.
 
Well I was trying to keep somewhat of a budget on this BUT... Let's flip the coin and
see how it lands...

So , For a street car - WHICH aluminum heads would be good (and cam combo).

I have a Holley Systemax upper/lower (aside from other parts, just saying the brand name).

Let's see some ideas and check some prices...

Remember, Streetable, Dependable. I'm not looking to wring it's neck everytime I get in the car.

Thanks!