What can I use from a 96 mustang in a 67 rebuild?

P51Stang

New Member
Oct 30, 2006
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Hi All,
New to posting in the forum, longtime lurker.

I'm looking at a 96 v6 with a blown motor for a good price and I'm considering buying and parting out after pulling what I need for a 67 convertible project I'm working on. I know I can use the disc brake parts front and rear. Thinking of fat man kit upfront and I have an 8.8 to rebuild for the rear which I can use the discs on. Any other parts I can use from this car? It's an auto tranny but not sure exactly what. Thanks for any info!:)
 
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The 8.8 will work with a little work. I have a 95 8.8 in mine. It is about 1.5" longer than a stock 67. I have late model wheels on it w/o spacers. If I was buying 8" wide wheels they would have 5.5" bs to fit better. I used the E fan and inertia switch also. I had the driveshaft re-shafted to the right length. It uses 1330 u-joints. There is some info on my Cardomain site, but no pictures.
 
I believe the tranny is a 4R70W, which can be used but since it's EEC controlled, you may not want to go to the trouble.
The dash is a modular unit that can be unbolted. I've toyed with swapping in the late-model dash, but there are soooo many issues that I may never do it.
 
The 8.8 will work with a little work. I have a 95 8.8 in mine. It is about 1.5" longer than a stock 67. I have late model wheels on it w/o spacers. If I was buying 8" wide wheels they would have 5.5" bs to fit better. I used the E fan and inertia switch also. I had the driveshaft re-shafted to the right length. It uses 1330 u-joints. There is some info on my Cardomain site, but no pictures.

I like the TCP G Bar setup mentioned in another thread. Would this 8.8 rear require much modification to work with that? btw, I have a MIG setup and have just finished a basic auto welding class, so a little welding is not a problem.
 
I like the TCP G Bar setup mentioned in another thread. Would this 8.8 rear require much modification to work with that? btw, I have a MIG setup and have just finished a basic auto welding class, so a little welding is not a problem.



you would have to re-attach the axle perches and i'm not sure if the upper link brackets would be able to be positioned correctly but probably so.

you could use the AOD/E4R70W with a TCI or Baumman controller neither is really expensive considering the cost for a well built AOD vs the stock AOD/E and a controller anyway
 
Did you guys fail to notice that this thing is a v6 ? Unless someone has swaped in an 8.8" rear end it doesn't have one in it at all. The v6 cars came with a smaller rear end. I believe it is a 7.5" rear, I'll take an 8" over that any day.

Edit:
Just realized he has a seperate 8.8" that isn't supposed to come from the donnor v6.

If you want my opinion, leave that v6 alone. The front brakes on it aren't worth the time. The 67 factory disc brakes are better. The rear brakes might be something you would consider but you should put on the Cobra upgrade kit is something you should consider for the rear, at that point all you would need for the rears would be the calipers/mounting brackets, a set of pads and a custom parking brake cable.

As for a fatman setup for the front, are you talking MII style ?
 
Did you guys fail to notice that this thing is a v6 ? Unless someone has swaped in an 8.8" rear end it doesn't have one in it at all. The v6 cars came with a smaller rear end. I believe it is a 7.5" rear, I'll take an 8" over that any day.

Edit:
Just realized he has a seperate 8.8" that isn't supposed to come from the donnor v6.

If you want my opinion, leave that v6 alone. The front brakes on it aren't worth the time. The 67 factory disc brakes are better. The rear brakes might be something you would consider but you should put on the Cobra upgrade kit is something you should consider for the rear, at that point all you would need for the rears would be the calipers/mounting brackets, a set of pads and a custom parking brake cable.

As for a fatman setup for the front, are you talking MII style ?


fatman has a Strut conversion kit that uses SN-95 parts including the brakes and struts so these brakes would work with that kit, if he has drums these would better if he buys the fatman kit, though the cobra brakes would be even better.

www.ultrastang.com has rear disc conversion that uses the v6/v8 sn-95 rear discs as well as one for the cobra rear as well that will work on the 8" or 9" rears in case you decide to keep the 8" rear.

BTW, i'm not real fond of the Fatman kit but part of that is that i'm not real fond of MacPherson struts either, but i'm also not a fan of the Escort rack they use however i've heard it will work just fine, it's just really small and spindly is all. the other reason is that i don't like the idea of paying that much money for their kit and then still have to hunt down a donor car, in this case though you already have the donor car.
 
Wow, I'm glad I finally decided to post instead of just reading this forum all the time. Thanks for all the discussion, I'm open to all ideas. The car has been dismantled and mounted on the rotisserie, waiting to be blasted in my "spare" :lol: time, so there is time to finalize these decisions.

I drove this car in college way back when and have been hauling it around with me ever since, always garaged. I finally started working in earnest recently and my theme is a GTA "tribute". The engine/trans when I bought it was a 302/C4, apparently was originally a 289-2V. I'm looking to upgrade suspension and steering to a nice driver, no plans for the racetrack. I'll also probably buy an EFI crate motor to make things simple since I'm not an engine builder (yet) and some type of AOD tranny. I've still got the 8" rear, and an 8.8 I picked up from an 87 mustang (4 lug, need upgr to 5), unfortunately the deal on the 96 fell through, but I appreciate everyone's ideas for reuse of parts.

I like the idea of the cobra brakes, but they seem a bit pricey. I'm mainly looking to modernize suspension, drivetrain with no permanent changes ( I did consider the MII, but didn't have the heart to cut things). The Fat Man stuff seemed like a good solution up front, but I'm no expert. Please keep the ideas coming. As I'm sure with everyone else, this will progress limited only by time and money so I appreciate your ideas.
 
personally i would consider keeping a stock style suspension up front but upgraded a bit. check www.opentrackerracingproducts.com at the minimum i'd get at least the roller spring perches and some heim jointed strut rods. if you have the money i'd go with the complete roller suspension with upper and lower control arms, roller perches and the heim jointed strut rods. add on a www.randallsrack.com rack and pinion or one of the many other rack kits from unisteer, steeroids or TCP and a font disc brake kit from www.discbrakeswap.com or www.mustangsteve.com and a rear disc kit from www.ultrastang.com.

i'd also stick with the 8" rearend for the car just upgrade it to a traction lok diff with better gears in the 3.50-3.70 range if you plan on using an AOD trans but only if you don't plan on going with more than 350-400hp if you do go with more power then i'd consider an 8.8 or 9" rear. the 8" rear gets a bad rap but doesn't really deserve it, i know people who have put mild big blocks in front of them and they survived just fine. as long as you don't plan on any dragstrip launches you won't break it unless you're really trying hard, especially with an automatic.
 
personally i would consider keeping a stock style suspension up front but upgraded a bit. check www.opentrackerracingproducts.com at the minimum i'd get at least the roller spring perches and some heim jointed strut rods. if you have the money i'd go with the complete roller suspension with upper and lower control arms, roller perches and the heim jointed strut rods. add on a www.randallsrack.com rack and pinion or one of the many other rack kits from unisteer, steeroids or TCP and a font disc brake kit from www.discbrakeswap.com or www.mustangsteve.com and a rear disc kit from www.ultrastang.com.

i'd also stick with the 8" rearend for the car just upgrade it to a traction lok diff with better gears in the 3.50-3.70 range if you plan on using an AOD trans but only if you don't plan on going with more than 350-400hp if you do go with more power then i'd consider an 8.8 or 9" rear. the 8" rear gets a bad rap but doesn't really deserve it, i know people who have put mild big blocks in front of them and they survived just fine. as long as you don't plan on any dragstrip launches you won't break it unless you're really trying hard, especially with an automatic.

Thanks for the suggestions and links. What's the best way to go about upgrading the 8" rear? Look for a rebuilt 3rd member on ebay or learn how to do it myself? I'm inclined to do it myself unless there is a steep learning curve or expensive tools necessary. Any idea approximate costs?
 
I would pay a shop to assemble the pumpkin and install the unit yourself. Assembly is tough, install is easy.


agreed. the best bet would be to find a v8/v6 mustang II or v6 pinto with a traction lok 8" rear and rob the diff from it. i got the one for my old 78 mustang II from a 77 bobcat wagon (mercury version of the pinto) it had a 3.45 or 3.50 traction lok rear and i got it super cheap, like 50 bucks for the whole thing.
 
The MII's were v6 motors not I6 ? And they had 8" with traclok options ? Damn, now that is some useful information. Maybe I'll take a trip to the junkyards when the season is over and find my self a posi for my 8" :)
 
agreed. the best bet would be to find a v8/v6 mustang II or v6 pinto with a traction lok 8" rear and rob the diff from it. i got the one for my old 78 mustang II from a 77 bobcat wagon (mercury version of the pinto) it had a 3.45 or 3.50 traction lok rear and i got it super cheap, like 50 bucks for the whole thing.

I like this idea. Any clues how to identify the tracLok/8" once I think I found it?
 
I like this idea. Any clues how to identify the tracLok/8" once I think I found it?



the door tag is the first place i'd look and then the diff has a tag as well. if it's a trac lok it will have an L between the gear ratio numbers, IE; an open 3.25 gear set will look like this... 3 25 and trac lok will look like this.... 3 L 25 or whatever ratio you're looking for, 3.50, 3.45, 3.70 etc. i think about all you'll find in the pinto/II's will be 3.07, 3.25, 3.45 and 3.50 or so. 9" diffs have the sam kind of system as well.
 
The MII's were v6 motors not I6 ? And they had 8" with traclok options ? Damn, now that is some useful information. Maybe I'll take a trip to the junkyards when the season is over and find my self a posi for my 8" :)



yep, and the little 2.8 v6 can be a runner too. i had a 76 capri II with the 2.8 v6 2v carb and factory dual exhaust, 4 speed and like a 3.18 posi rear, not an 8" though it's the german rearend. anyway, that little car cuold scoot pretty good and there are/were a lot of hop up goodies for the 2.8 v6, cams, intakes, carbs, headers, etc. we used to take it out the lake and drive around the dirt roads there like it was an old rally car, pretty fun really i wish i still had that car or another like it.
 
The OHC 4.0 in the '05 up V6 'stangs is a direct descendant of the 2.8, so it should be a bolt in swap if you had a MII. I always liked those cars... I had a '78 hatchback with a 2.8 back in '80. It would drive circles around a brand new 4 banger Fox Mustang.
 
there are 3 cars i really wish i still had. my 76 capri, my old 78 mustang II with a 2.3 4 banger with automatic, ps and ac and my old 70 cougar. i'll be saying the same thing about the 69 GT before long too but that's the breaks sometimes.
 
there are 3 cars i really wish i still had. my 76 capri, my old 78 mustang II with a 2.3 4 banger with automatic, ps and ac and my old 70 cougar. i'll be saying the same thing about the 69 GT before long too but that's the breaks sometimes.

How ironic; my first car was a 78 mustang II ghia with a 6 cyl, auto, and a moonroof. That was a fun car :D

Btw, I called around a few places and can't find many yards with 70s/80s cars. Either I'm not looking in the right places or they crushed 'em long ago. Of course, I'm smack dab in the rust belt, north chicagoland.