What head bolts for AFR 165 heads...??
- Thread starter 5spd GT
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Rick 91GT said:
What makes the studs superior to the bolts...I know piece of mind is better but is it really going to matter with an N/A setup...Bolts are around what $40...
Also what bolts should I get to bolt up my Mac Equal Length headers to the AFR's...??? Part Number?
Rick@CJs
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Stock replacement sized bolts will work for everything, other then an intake, which comes with the intake. Just use anti-seize on all bolts on the top end of the motor.
408stroker5.0
The world would be a better place if all males jus
Don't even consider anything but ARP Head Stud's. The little extra money more they will cost you is so minor that it make's no sense not to go with what's best. Not only that, but you can reuse them and they will be a must if a blower or nitrous or any other serious mods find there way on to your Stang. Do it right the first time man... Go ARP Studs.
Legendary
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I'm probably going to go ahead and get the ARP head bolts for the 289-302 standard...ARP-154-3601 for $38 bucks...I don't plan on a supercharger or nitrous...and if I do I would take apart the motor or get a new one and build it up and then I'd change if I needed to...but I'm probably going to get the bolts...
So I need some thread sealer (antiseize)...for these bolts...
What would be some good header bolts...part number for those?...I didn't see any in the Summit Catalog... ...I guess I'm going to check the website...
So I need some thread sealer (antiseize)...for these bolts...
What would be some good header bolts...part number for those?...I didn't see any in the Summit Catalog...
...I guess I'm going to check the website...
Rick@CJs
Premium Sponsor
ANY stock type header bolt will work. If you really want the best get stage 8 locking bolts, but then your bolts would be worth more then the MAC headers.
Most of the MAC's now come with bolts, otherwise get the Stainless Stage 8 bolts but they are double the cost not sure if the extra money is worth it to you, but they don't rust or back out.
I still suggest studs, although ARP bolts would be fine....
DO NOT USE ANTI-SEIZE ON THE HEAD BOLTS.
ALL of the lower head bolts need thread sealer since they go into the water jackets, I like the ARP stuff. The top head bolts need moly or oil, I prefer to use the ARP moly it ensuires proper tq when using their bolts.
The intake bolts you can re-use or buy them from ARP for around $12 stainless. I use antiseize on those to prevent them from galling into the alum head. Don't forget to put permatex around the water jackets from the intake hasket and use a nice thick bead of Permatex on the front and rear, you find it works better then the cork or rubber end seals given with most kits. You need a 1250 Fel-Pro intake gasket and a 1415 Fel-pro header gasket.
I still suggest studs, although ARP bolts would be fine....
DO NOT USE ANTI-SEIZE ON THE HEAD BOLTS.
ALL of the lower head bolts need thread sealer since they go into the water jackets, I like the ARP stuff. The top head bolts need moly or oil, I prefer to use the ARP moly it ensuires proper tq when using their bolts.
The intake bolts you can re-use or buy them from ARP for around $12 stainless. I use antiseize on those to prevent them from galling into the alum head. Don't forget to put permatex around the water jackets from the intake hasket and use a nice thick bead of Permatex on the front and rear, you find it works better then the cork or rubber end seals given with most kits. You need a 1250 Fel-Pro intake gasket and a 1415 Fel-pro header gasket.
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