What is everyones Car Goals?

  • Sponsors (?)


Well, this coming season (spring/summer 2007) I plan on finishing setting up a stout suspension and get some chassis stiffening, and refurbishing the interior. Not much in terms of engine mods for now (maybe an intake, as listed in my sig) because it is my daily driver for the next year or so (need something reliable), then all hell breaks loose. In spring 2008, I plan on completely gutting the engine bay, doing a tubular K-member and coilover setup that will house either a 408W or 418W, 8.5:1 compression, accompanied by either a single or dual turbo setup (funds being the deciding factor) producing in the range of 12-16 psi. This will be backed by the strongest version of a T-56 that I can find and a built rear end. Oh, and some nice wheels that I can fit a 315 tire onto the rear. Cosmetics will come later, I'm thinking a new paint job, sticking with roughly the same color (because I love it so much and it is easier), an S-281 rear wing, maybe a side exhaust and maybe a Cobra front bumper. I want to keep it as stock looking as I can on the outside, just cleaner. Driveability and fuel mileage are not an issue because it will be strictly a show car and weekend toy.
 
My Goals are minimal for my car. Just give me a Carbon Fiber driveshaft, Fluidyne radiator, Roush short throw shifter, Aluminum Flywheel, Centerforce Clutch, and some 4.10 gears, an Accufab Throttlebody, Mahle Pistons, and some drag radials. I'm interested to see what I'd do in a quarter. Any guesses by the way?
 
well I need to find a money tree for this spring. This spring I'd like to get cobra breaks, finish my black interior swap, restore the underbody, install my gears, tub k-member, tko swap and some juice...
 
I want to put a 331 stroker with three 2 barrel carbs, do my interior all black, gears, maybe NO2, twin turbo or S/C.

As for exterior, Cobra RR hood, Stalker bumper, SVO skirts (depeding if I get the side exhaust) and Im still undecided on the back bumper.
 
I've got some plans, we'll see how they work out...

IN THE END......I hope to have a car capable of beating around vettes and vipers while still being somewhat reliable....meaning, I don't want to worry about breaking down every time I leave my driveway...

I also like to look pretty. My other goal is to someday grace a magazine with my car...
 
main goal...not to blow something up.

seriously.

this tweecer thing's giving me a headache for real...but its fun. My main tuning goal is to get rid of this annoying low rpm buck I have....BLAH!!!

I'm done with my engine for the moment....now I'm gonna work on the interior. I was looking at:

cobra seats

4 cobalt gauges mounted on clock/instrument panel
^--those gauges are friggin expensive

shift light

re-do my sub position in the trunk.

rear seat delete (maybe)


some DRs.....anyone know any good radials to get for an 18x10 saleen rim?
 
All Exterior and Interior work
-Get my roll bar fitted, painted and welded in.
-Cut and paint my tonneau cover
-Fix paint on front bumper
-s281 wing
-Recover Corbeaus' w/black n silver microsuede
-Repainted interior pieces
-Florida 5.0 speedo cluster (already have the gauges)
-FR500 steering wheel
-01+ Center Console
-Buy some DRs for the spring
 
Danman765432 said:
Mine is to do an h/c/i in the spring (edelbrock performers, Cobra Intake, Crane 2031) and boost up my nitrous to a 125 shot...hoping for 400rwhp

What those kits dont tell you is that the 125HP shot is not 125HP. It is more like 70-80FWHP (stick) depending on how you calculate FWHP which for stick and depending on the total HP "number" is typically calulated anywhere from XXXrwhp / .83 - .85 and for auto approx. XXXrwhp/ .80 .

Why? The reason is that you have to retard the timing to prevent detonation. Retarding the timing takes your HP level lower than you would be starting from N/A with maximized timing. For me, cats also took about 10-12 HP off the table. 400RWHP will not be achievable with your specs in my o. With a killer cam and less driveability maybe closer to 350-360rwhp best in my o unless you go bigger engine. The auto is going to hold it back also. These are just some ideas to consider.
 
Pokageek said:
What those kits dont tell you is that the 125HP shot is not 125HP. It is more like 70-80FWHP (stick) depending on how you calculate FWHP which for stick and depending on the total HP "number" is typically calulated anywhere from XXXrwhp / .83 - .85 and for auto approx. XXXrwhp/ .80 .

Why? The reason is that you have to retard the timing to prevent detonation. Retarding the timing takes your HP level lower than you would be starting from N/A with maximized timing. For me, cats also took about 10-12 HP off the table. 400RWHP will not be achievable with your specs in my o. With a killer cam and less driveability maybe closer to 350-360rwhp best in my o unless you go bigger engine. The auto is going to hold it back also. These are just some ideas to consider.


I thought i've seen dyno graphs guys put up where the gain from a 125 shot wasnt 125hp but 125ft-lbs torque.......:shrug:
 
Dunno..Depends on the Dyno being used and other factors like stick or auto, etc..I guess you can make a dyno say anything it wants also... heck I am not sure what exactly they do back there, lol.

I had my car done at Kauffmans ever since KC recommended them. They are a further drive but I know it will get done right. Thanks again to Killer Canary.

I also know the tune is SAFE. So ..maybe I could get another 15 horses out of it but why take a chance on blowing the motor? I am sure there are tuners out there that will take it to the bleeding edge but that's not for me.