I still trying find out whats wrong with my car , do you guys ever had bad O2 Sensors and what kinda symptoms are when O2 is bad
What kinda symptoms is when O2 Sensor is bad
- Thread starter Slow5.0
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Mine looks like misfiring , BUT it's runing TOO LEAN , ( my friend installed on right O2 hole Wide band sensor or what ever you call its too lean , 14.7 on WOT and 18s on idle or cruising
BlackVert
15 Year Member
Black96VertGT said:
Yeah usually. I still have the stock ones on, there 117,000 miles old and I think there due for a change
Acutally Im replacing them in the next week or two. I do get a check engine light as well such as when Im cruising along in 4th gear and as soon as I hit 1500 RPM's the light comes on, after I get obove 2000 RPMs the light goes out.
Nagash01WS6 said:
KOEO here we go , I just wanna make thread about what I find with KOER(key on, engine runing)
I got two codes
311 AIR system inoperative during KOER (Bank number 1 with dual heated oxygen sensors)
314 AIR system inoperative during KOER (Bank number 2 with dual heated oxygen sensors)
What this mean, and I don't have check engine light on
302fordracer
New Member
pretty sure the check engine light would be on if the car had a bad o2 sensor...it being part of he car's computer the chip should recognize a fault. No one has mentioned also that a faulty o2 sensor can eventually cause catalytic converter failure.
SexyStang1994
Founding Member
302fordracer said:
Catalytic what????
I love Florida....
AIR system is to heat up your cats... dont know how the computer would detect that fault though.
swingline
New Member
BlackVert
15 Year Member
According to my Haynes repair manual:SexyStang1994 said:Catalytic what????
I love Florida....
AIR system is to heat up your cats... dont know how the computer would detect that fault though.
The AIR system forces air down into the exhaust manifolds while the engine is warming up to oxidize the hydrocarbons and carbon monoxide created by the rich running conditions during warming up. 94 and 95 models have a mechanical system, 96+ operate with an electric pump.
At least that is what my Haynes repair manual says about it.
mo_dingo
Dirt-Old 20+Year Member
You are getting codes for the AIR system (smog pump, etc), not the O2 sensors. Basically, the O2's are functioning properly, and telling you that something to do with the AIR system is bad.
Unless BOTH of your O2 sensors happened to fail simultaneously, which is possible.
Have you checked fuel pressure, spark, vacuum & compression? That will remove most of the likely suspects out of the equation.
The AIR system is only supposed to work for the first 20-120 seconds of car operation. After that, it is shut off (supposed to shut off).
Scott
Unless BOTH of your O2 sensors happened to fail simultaneously, which is possible.
Have you checked fuel pressure, spark, vacuum & compression? That will remove most of the likely suspects out of the equation.
The AIR system is only supposed to work for the first 20-120 seconds of car operation. After that, it is shut off (supposed to shut off).
Scott
I thisnk this is like 100th time I said , I check , clean and change EVERYTHING
ECT , IAC , IAT , MAF , TPS , Ignition Module , All spark plugs , wires , distributor cap , rotor , INJECTORS , air filter , fuel filter , fuel pump, O2 sensors , PCM , CCRM , everything , fuel pressure is 38 just like before , compression is good (137-150psi) timing is like before , everything looks normal but still runing too lean , looks like misfiring, I mean everithing , there is no vaccum leak between Upper and lower intake and lower to heads , I don't know what to do
I didn't check vaccum with Vaccum tools , I check for vaccum leak but no leak
ECT , IAC , IAT , MAF , TPS , Ignition Module , All spark plugs , wires , distributor cap , rotor , INJECTORS , air filter , fuel filter , fuel pump, O2 sensors , PCM , CCRM , everything , fuel pressure is 38 just like before , compression is good (137-150psi) timing is like before , everything looks normal but still runing too lean , looks like misfiring, I mean everithing , there is no vaccum leak between Upper and lower intake and lower to heads , I don't know what to do
I didn't check vaccum with Vaccum tools , I check for vaccum leak but no leak
BlackVert
15 Year Member
huh. maybe it's the computer?Seth5.0 said:I thisnk this is like 100th time I said , I check , clean and change EVERYTHING
ECT , IAC , IAT , MAF , TPS , Ignition Module , All spark plugs , wires , distributor cap , rotor , INJECTORS , air filter , fuel filter , fuel pump, O2 sensors , PCM , CCRM , everything , fuel pressure is 38 just like before , compression is good (137-150psi) timing is like before , everything looks normal but still runing too lean , looks like misfiring, I mean everithing , there is no vaccum leak between Upper and lower intake and lower to heads , I don't know what to do
I didn't check vaccum with Vaccum tools , I check for vaccum leak but no leak
Black96VertGT said:
Do you see my post before yours " PCM , CCRM "
I try that and same thing nothing change
J/K
Stop joking , this is serious problem , I can't drive my Stang on job or on the track and summer time is here 
mo_dingo
Dirt-Old 20+Year Member
You can rent a vacuum gauge at autozone. It's really easy. It will tell you if you have a vacuum leak, or if one cylinder isn't performing properly.
The computer seems to think that the AIR system is bad. Have you checked everything there? Your smog pump may have taken a dump!
Scott
The computer seems to think that the AIR system is bad. Have you checked everything there? Your smog pump may have taken a dump!
Scott
