What Would Happen?

[88LX5.Oh]

Eventually I'm gonna get my car back and I'm gonna put my 5 lug/disk brake rear end under the car. I've read through a couple of threads saying when doing this you need a new booster, master, new proportioning valves, and a 3-2 conversion or something like that (didn't read too much on this topic)
What would the car act like if I were to keep the factory prop valve, master cylinder, and booster but run disk brakes on the rear?

I'm thinking of just putting the rear in and seeing how it acts because I'm tired of this being a project. I'm tired of spending money and I'm tired of seeing my car tore apart off in the corner. I just wanna drive it.

 

[88LX5.Oh]

And just to make this clear, if I were to do all the braking upgrades, all I would need are these items: (excluding the e-brake set up. I have the Ford Racing instruction sheet and the e-brake part was simple I believe)

http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/LRS-2140H/1994-95-Mustang-Gt-V6-Brake-Master-Cylinder

http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/LRS-2005G/1994-1995-Mustang-Power-Brake-Booster

http://www.latemodelrestoration.com...d-Racing-Adjustable-Brake-Proportioning-Valve

http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/M2450A/Mustang-Brake-Proportioning-Valve-Plug

http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/MM-MMBAK3/87-93-Mustang-Brake-Line-Adapter-For-93-Cobra-Master-Cylinde
Of course I know I don't have to go buy these exact ones because other companies offer them, but am I on the right track as to what parts I do need?


Is there anything anyone would change or include/exclude from this list?
And sorry if this sort of thing has been asked time and time again...
I did do some searching but this post is just for clarification because I just want to make damn sure my car isn't gonna get messed up.

 

[stykthyn]

your brakes wouldnt work like they should plain and simple. I just did the front discs with the 95 master cylinder and the 3-2 conversion and my brakes are SUPER hard.

 

[88LX5.Oh]

Ok thank you for the response.
I think I'm just gonna nut up and start buying parts

 

[88LX5.Oh]

And I like your sig.
"It will run someday I swear"
Sounds about like me and my car.

 

[85_SS_302_Coupe]

Yep, i got mine back from a 15 month long paint job only to drive it about 3 times and then garage it and rip the interior out for what was supposed to be a week or two long color change, which has now turned into an all summer disaster.

 

[88LX5.Oh]

Yep, i got mine back from a 15 month long paint job only to drive it about 3 times and then garage it and rip the interior out for what was supposed to be a week or two long color change, which has now turned into an all summer disaster.

15 MONTHS?!
And I'm complaining about a 3.5 month paint job. Holy crap! That car better be gold plated with platinum wheels for it to take that damn long.

 

[Vaz88GT]

15 MONTHS?!
And I'm complaining about a 3.5 month paint job. Holy crap! That car better be gold plated with platinum wheels for it to take that damn long.

It is, best 4-eye I've ever seen

 

[88LX5.Oh]

Been doing some reading in the brake and 5 lug conversion thread.
The only thing that's confusing me is the part where you gut out the factory prop valve. Can someone gimme more details on this please?
Like are you essentially stripping out the insides and making it useless so you can adjust everything yourself with the adjustable prop valve?

And this plug, it gets installed in the factory prop valve after you gut it out, correct?

I'm gonna go crazy because of all the things I have to do to my car.


EDIT:
Just found this

"If you want to drive with disk/disk, you:
o) JUNK the Fox prop/comb-valve
o) Put in an sn95 prop-comb valve. Disable the "prop functionality in the prop-comb" valve, and add an adj prop valve.
o) An use a MC designed for a disk/disk system"

So do I take off my fox prop valve, put an SN95 prop valve in, gut it, then install the adjustable one? I'm really starting to wish I had just decided to stick with the stock brake set-up. I'm reading too many different ways of doing this

 

[85_SS_302_Coupe]

15 MONTHS?!
And I'm complaining about a 3.5 month paint job. Holy crap! That car better be gold plated with platinum wheels for it to take that damn long.

You would think so, but not so much. It looks great at a glance but the longer you (I) stare at it, the more pissed off i get about it.

It is, best 4-eye I've ever seen

Thanks mang

 

[ReefBlueHatch]

Check out this link: http://blog.latemodelrestoration.co...rt-3-master-cylinder-and-proportioning-valve/

I just finished up my under-hood stuff on my SN95 brake swap. It all was very straight forward. I used the following:

New 93 Cobra booster from Autozone
Used 94-95 MC
Maximum Motorsports 3-2 MC swap
LMR PV plug
FRPP proportion valve

Here's what "gutting the PV" means - simply remove the cap (careful, there will be pressure from the spring) and then pull out all the pieces. Transfer the o-ring on the new delete plug and install.

 

[ratio411]

When I go rear disc, I am just going to use the Turbo Coupe prop valve.
It was a rear disc (same rear brakes as SN95, but 4 lug) Fox without ABS to complicate things, so it should swap right in.
As for the booster, that is questionable if it even matters. So long as the mechanical portion of the brake actuation has good geometry, it doesn't matter.
The master matters because the drum brakes use more fluid pressure at rest than do discs*, so discs would remain engaged with a drum master. If you keep the geometry right, you can get a master that works fine with a given booster, rod, and pedal actuation point.

*Something like 2psi at rest vs 10-15psi at rest.

 

[JordanB21]

Yep, i got mine back from a 15 month long paint job only to drive it about 3 times and then garage it and rip the interior out for what was supposed to be a week or two long color change, which has now turned into an all summer disaster.

do you have a thread with pictures? I'd really like to see more of your car lol

 

[85_SS_302_Coupe]

do you have a thread with pictures? I'd really like to see more of your car lol

Yep right here http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/the-time-has-come-evil-ssp-gets-painted.809375/page-7

 

[88LX5.Oh]

Check out this link: http://blog.latemodelrestoration.co...rt-3-master-cylinder-and-proportioning-valve/

I just finished up my under-hood stuff on my SN95 brake swap. It all was very straight forward. I used the following:

New 93 Cobra booster from Autozone
Used 94-95 MC
Maximum Motorsports 3-2 MC swap
LMR PV plug
FRPP proportion valve

Here's what "gutting the PV" means - simply remove the cap (careful, there will be pressure from the spring) and then pull out all the pieces. Transfer the o-ring on the new delete plug and install.

This is exactly what I was looking for. Thank you very much!
In my head I was making this a lot harder than it really seems now.

 

[88LX5.Oh]

http://blog.latemodelrestoration.co...rt-3-master-cylinder-and-proportioning-valve/

In this, they didn't swap boosters. I know I'm not running the same exact set up as they are, but do you think I could get away with just swapping master cylinders? Or should I just go ahead and swap out the booster as well?
I'm running factory front brakes and the rears are SN95.

 

[stykthyn]

swap out the booster and save yourself a headache. I didnt swap mine and I hate the way my brakes feel.
now I got to take it all apart again to put in the new booster.

 

[Noobz347]

swap out the booster and save yourself a headache. I didnt swap mine and I hate the way my brakes feel.
now I got to take it all apart again to put in the new booster.

What size MC did you use?

 

[stykthyn]

stock 95mc

 

[Noobz347]

stock 95mc

Not sure what size that is but I hear tell that a 1 inch MC works well with the OEM Fox GT booster.