Which Bypass for my Vortech?

notchnut

Founding Member
Mar 6, 2001
234
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16
New England
I'm currently running a 3.12" pulley on my V2 and seeing a consistant 10lbs non intercooled. I'm installing a FMIC this winter and was wondering if I should just stick with the standard Bosch bypass valve (Vortech rates it at 6-12 LBS) or upgrade to a Vortech Maxflow or Mondo? Obviously they are a bit pricey but I want to make sure things are done right, but I also dont want to spend a ton of money on something the car wont need. The Stang will see very limited track time if it matters. Thanks.
 
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you should get the vortech mini race bypass valve. it helps greatly with compressor surge. the stock bosh one is just not that good. i assume your gonna pulley down a size or two to help with the pressure loss through the intercooler also....right? your setup would definatly benefit from the mini race.
 
you will see some sort of a pressure drop. i would pulley down at least one size otherwise you wont really see any power gains. you will have cooler air but to maximize that colder air keep the boost at 10 psi. :nice:
 
alright thanks guys, mini race it is. I'm bummed, I thought I had that mini race last night, It was at $85.00 with 1 minute to go and we shot it up to 165.00 in a minute, it probably would have went for more if we had more time. Oh well, thanks for the help. If I cannot find one over the winter I may just stick with the Bosch for a while because I am running out of money quick on the winter mods:rolleyes:
 
A 3.12" pulley non-interooled should be running WAY more than 10psi, something is wrong - either a leak or bad head unit. I made 11psi with a 3.33" pulley before my intercooler kit went on...

Anyway, the mini race is what you want - like this Vortech 8D204-003 - Vortech Maxflow Racing Bypass Valves - summitracing.com

I have a spare sitting in my garage, but it might have a bad diaphram/need a new spring, or it just needs adjusting I'm not sure, e-mail me [email protected] if you want it.
 
A 3.12" pulley non-interooled should be running WAY more than 10psi, something is wrong - either a leak or bad head unit. I made 11psi with a 3.33" pulley before my intercooler kit went on...

Anyway, the mini race is what you want - like this Vortech 8D204-003 - Vortech Maxflow Racing Bypass Valves - summitracing.com

I have a spare sitting in my garage, but it might have a bad diaphram/need a new spring, or it just needs adjusting I'm not sure, e-mail me [email protected] if you want it.

I have to be honest, because my car has absolutley no hook at all, it's actually scary to stay in it long enough to see if maybe I can get 11-12lbs. I have definitley seen 10 quickly before I let out of it. I'm in the process of doing alot work to the car to make it more safe. (UPA/LCA's, full lenghth subs, etc. I dont think there is any leak anywhere. What are some sighns of a bad head unit? (besides reduced boost:rolleyes:) Thanks. Also can those mini valves be rebuilt?
 
If you can't hook, invest in tires next lol... You should be able to hook with even some decent 245 street tires, I cut 1.8 60fts on $70/tr 245 all seasons LOL... so it is POSSIBLE to hook. ;) To see how much boost you're making you should rack out 3rd or 4th to redline, then look at the gauge - unless you really have ZERO traction because of tires/suspension it should be pretty easy to watch up that fast. I'm not sure if vortech sells replacement diaphragms/springs - give them a ring, but I have a valve I'll let you have for next to nothing (as in shipping+box price). Lemme know :nice:
 
I'll call Vortech on Monday and probably take you up on that offer, I'll send you a pm Monday. As far as the whole traction thing goes, there are a few variables in play:
1. I'm running 315/30ZR 18's in the rear (Michelin model xxx?)
2. My control arms were popping like crazy, I'm almost certain one of the bushing's is smashed to bits! so those were contributing to the severe tire spin.
3. the whole reason for me installing the intercooler is to reduce detonation. The previous owner had it set up reasonably conservative but it was slightly detonating up top so I kept it out of boost except for the few occasions when it was running without the ping. And thats when I would check for boost but still knowing the detonantion exist I have never bashed the pedal down yet. I'm hoping with the FMIC and control arms installed umong other mods I have plannd over the winter it will be ready to go come spring. And I am having it tuned by EFILOGICS in the spring. I am also eyeing a set of Mickey Thompson 305/35/18 drag radials on Ebay for $525.00. those should do it:nice: