Who's done the Mini-Tub???

Noobz347

Stangnet Facilities Maint Tech... Er... Janitor
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Jan 4, 1985
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Box behind Walmart
What were the total costs involved?

Welding
Shortened Axles and housing
Wheels
Tires

What else?

If I get some good info I'll request the thread be moved to Tech... for now though... curious as to involvment and costs.

How did it handle on the street?


Thanks! :nice:
 
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I've done the tubs and they're detailed on my progress thread.
( As a matter of fact I'm currently doing this right now in exchange for the labor on my paint job)

I moved the stock wheel tub inwards 1.5" because the 10" wheels were 7.2" backspaced. I did not shorten the housing and buy axles because of that. But....

The axles purchased from Moser or Strange will be around 350-390 a set for a entry level "good" set in either 28/31/33/35 splines.

You will have to do something about keeping the axles in the housing, and can use either C clip eliminators or have small/big 9" ford housing ends welded on your 8.8 to retain your axles.

And depending on which way you choose, that obviously will affect the total labor bill on your housing. If you have a "guy" that can handle that locally, then that will be alot better than shipping the thing to Moser. I don't know where you live other than in the "box behind walmart", but if you lived in the south, I'd be able to recommend somebody for that.

Strange will tell you not to use C clip eliminators because they are prone to leakage, I can't comment as I have always welded small ford 9" ends on my 8.8's.
If you don't use C clip eliminators, then you'll also have to deal w/ brakes as the ford ends will not work w/ your stock brakes

A narrowed rear will also require that the shocks/ springs be relocated

I also have used rear coil overs in several street cars, (including the one in my progress thread) as are probably several others here. I have to say That as long as the springs are the right rate, there is no noticeable difference in ride quality.

Lastly, depending on how big you get your axles you'll have to use a full spool for anything bigger than 31 splines in an 8.8.
Detroit might make a TruTrac that will accommodate 33 splines I'm not sure on that though.

You can call up either of the two companies and they'll both be able to work up a package for you.
 
Strange will tell you not to use C clip eliminators because they are prone to leakage, I can't comment as I have always welded small ford 9" ends on my 8.8's.
If you don't use C clip eliminators, then you'll also have to deal w/ brakes as the ford ends will not work w/ your stock brakes


If you use north race cars brackets you can mill them to the thickness between the retaining plate and the 9" end. I did this on a bridgeport, and i think i took like .060 or .080'' out of them. They work like the factory drum setup does.
 
Sweet! Thanks for the response Mike. That definitely gives me some idea of what all is involved if I get to where I can give this a shot. Honestly, I had not considered using the inboard space for anything other than a shortened axle and some really deep rims. Your description implies that, that's problematic.

How does your car handle with the tims you're running. Is there a significant difference? I ask because I've seen others mention "line tracking" when they find a groove in the road etc.

I'll look for your build thread.

Thanks again!


90lx -- Thanks for the tip on the NR brackets. I actually have a set of those lying in the garage. Another project I've got to find time to do. I hadn't even given the brake issue a thought yet. If I go with stock length axles, (sounds a lot easier to me) and just get wheels to give me the stance I'm looking for, then I shouldn't have to modify them at all. Good to know that they can be modified to fit tho.
 
Mike hit a lot of the good points, Ive done them on my car and a few customers there are many ways you can go.... The car can handle a little different with a lot of tire under the rear.

Pricing is 110% depended on what you do, rear end, shocks, etc...

What is the purpose of the mini tub for you?

My own rear, shorted about 2.5" per side, 9" ends, Wilwood disc brakes, 15" x 12" 6.5" backspace, Autoweld Chassis direct fit mini tub, Strange Hypercoil double adjustable shocks and springs, 33 spline Mosers, 5/8" stud, star flange and gun drilled, spool, blah, blah, blah....

Its easy to dump $1500 in the complete 8.8 with 9" ends (which is my recommendation since c-clips elims no matter how good you do them eventually leak, if your building something like the above it makes no sense to not go 9" ends). I have the fixures to put the 9" ends down, narrow the rears etc... Then you need to consider brakes, they have to be determined BEFORE you do the rear!!

Autoweld sells the direct fit tubs for $119, if you need the shock bar and brackets (I just custom fab this) Team Z sells a complete kit in the $320-340 range. At that point I also needed offset lower control arms.

With the stock length rear most guys run a 15" x 10", 6.5" backspace.

If you need anything let me know if I can help.
 
What size tire are you planning on running?

Still up in the air. Suggestions?

Rick... I may have to get up with you to talk through the details and (if you'd be willing) go over what you'd get for a start to finish install (we can do that off-line).

Being that it's not going to be just straight line drag car, how much does that figure in to the whole thing?
 
If its not a drag car, than i dont see any reason to mini-tub it at all besides looks. There have been guys that put 305's or 315 nitto drag radials on a 17 inch rim with the stock tubs.

If you wanna run like a 345 on a 17 or 18 inch rim than thats a reason to tub it, but then you are looking at custom tailpipes, a custom gas tank or fuel cell... the list goes on.

IMO, you can fit plenty of tire in a stock fox wheelwell if you do it right, and still get the car nice and low.
 
I've seen it done, looked good but didn't seem worth the money to me.
Without the wheels or tires i'd say you will be hard pressed to get it done for less than 2 grand if you have to touch the rear itself.
2g's may even be a low number.

Probably best off just buying wheels and tires that fit.
 
I've seen it done, looked good but didn't seem worth the money to me.
Without the wheels or tires i'd say you will be hard pressed to get it done for less than 2 grand if you have to touch the rear itself.
2g's may even be a low number.

Probably best off just buying wheels and tires that fit.

Ultimately, this may be the end result. With each post, the list that I'm writing here is getting longer and longer. About half of what's been mentioned so far, are things that I'd counted on but the other half are the things I hadn't considered yet.

I agree (from the looks of things) that the $2K is probably a conservative estimate. I will likely do this (eventually) but it will be at a time where I'm looking for ways to fill my days. I'm not there yet. :rolleyes:

Would make a GREAT how-to thread though!
 
This is the car i think of every time someone says mini tub. I don't remember the width but those are 18s in the back and they're enormous. The mufflers are really really stupid, but with a 731hp turbo 5.4, you can do that if you want.

m5lp_0406_02_z1991_ford_mustangrear.jpg

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I don't make 731 HP but I do make more torque and power than I can put to the ground. A nice wide, fat, soft DR would be sweet!

--until the 5 spd is twisted into something resembling a prezel.