Would LCA relocation brackets eliminate/reduce wheelhop ?

Just out of curiosity, I'm looking into purchasing a set of CHE, LCA relocation brackets. However I don't have any immediate plans to lower my suspension at this time.

My question, is this. Would LCA relocation brackets either reduce or eliminate wheelhop, without having to lower my suspension ?


In the meantime, thanks for all your feedback and support in advance.




Rocky

Yes. That is exactly what they are for ... to eliminate wheel hop.

They are to improve traction, so yes I also agree on they will help reduce, if not eliminate wheel hop. Even on an otherwise stock suspension.
Why not also go ahead and replace the LCAs while you're at it. You have to remove the rear bolt from the LCA anyhow and you will get the added benefit of much better bushings.

Wheel hop is caused by axle windup, mostly due to the softer rubber bushings in the stock arms. If the geometry is incorrect than the relocation brackets will help, but changing the LCAs will make a huge difference.
Dan

I'm sorry. I must of been really tired last night. I thought you said you were going to be getting LCAs and the relocation brackets. My understanding is that the stock control arms will only bolt up to the top hole on the relocation brackets which really isn't going to do to much for wheel hop. It might help but it probably won't be a great effect. The ideal situation would be to run LCAs on the bottom hole on the relocation brackets. I've got the BMR Billet LCAs and the relocation brackets and zero wheel hop.

I believe adjustable relocation brackets and stock LCA's require the use of the bottom holes not the top ones. That's because the ends of the control arms are so large they need to be down lower to clear.

I think the J&M LCA's are the best bet. I've done some research on this and I'm impressed with the bushing design which isolates noise and the price is right.

Hey Nasty, thanks for clearing that up lol. Anyhow, after reading over everyone's recommendations. I also contacted Chuck over at CHE engineering, in which he strongly recommends replacing the stock lower control arms, and also upgrading to an adjustable panhard bar. He claims that both will eliminate the rear suspension from wheel hopping and bouncing around, whenever going over uneven or bumpy pavement surfaces.

In the meantime, would you recommend BMR lower control arms with their adjustable panhard bar, or would I be better off with CHE engineering's instead ?


Once again, thanks for all your feedback and support.



Rocky

Aftermarket LCA's come in two different types tubular or billet box style. In addition the bushings will be different depending on what type of setup you plan on running.

Your average run of the mill (read tried and true design) is tubular non adjustable with a polyurethane bushing. They are strong and significantly cheaper then their billet boxed counterparts.

I went with J&M Hotparts LCA's because of the three piece poly ball design of the bushings which helps eliminate bushing bind and improve handling.

I only own one of CHE's products and while it hasn't failed me ... The engineering behind the product was lacking. I own a few of BMR's products and have been nothing but impressed with the quality so I'd say go with BMR. Both are good though ...

My rear suspension is all CHE components, LCAs, UCA, Anti-Squats( LCA Relocation Brackets ), Panhard bar, Panhard bar brace. I am happy with how the car reacts, I do not know if it has helped me at the track or not and won't until 2009.

If I had to do it again, I would go with the Steeda LCA Relocation Brackets. The reason I would go with the Steeda's is that they are the most adjustable LCA Relocation Bracket out there.

That said, what I have personally seen of BMR components is that they are junk. There is quite a few cases of FAILED BMR relocation brackets.

How so? I'd like to hear this considering I know of a guy running them and runs 9s on them with nearly 900 rwhp. Are they welding them like they are supposed to be? If so, than it sounds like a bad weld. How are they breaking?

I'll definitely be going with the tubular type, it's just a matter of deciding on either BMR's or CHE engineering's

Unless BMR has changed it's installation instructions for their Relocation Brackets, they did not need to be welded in. On the S197 forum board, there is at least 3 cars that broke BMR Relocation Brackets including an N/A one making under 350 RWHP. Modular Fords has those and a few more cases of them as well.

Car went boom at track rental - WWW.S197FORUM.COM
Caught on tape: LCA failure at NVMC track rental - WWW.S197FORUM.COM


I know of one CHE failed Relocation Bracket, but that one was because the Relocation Bracket was not installed properly.

After speaking to Chuck from CHE engineering. It appears that I don't need LCA relocation brackets at all. Being as I don't drag race, nor take my car to the track. My only concern, is getting rid of the rear end bouncing around while going over uneven and bumpy pavement surfaces.

However he did recommend to replace the stock lower control arms, and also upgrade to an adjustable panhard bar.


So my question, is this. Is his recommendation accurate ?

BMR's instructions have also states that if the car is going to be used for racing that welding is required.

As far as getting an adjustable panhard bar and LCAs to stop your rear end from bouncing around while going down the road. It's kind of hard to say. I don't know what you're talking about. It could be your springs and shocks, too.

From my understanding, CHE relocation brackets don't require welding for everyday street useage. Whereas BMR does recommend that theirs be welded in !

I suppose the best way to describe it, is wheel hop. For example, whenever a rear wheel hits a bump in the road. It then feels as though both rear wheels bounce off the pavement at the same time

That is new for BMR's instructions. I had a PDF format of their LCA brackets. I acquired it when I was shopping for my parts to see what it involved with theirs and I know that it was never stated to weld them in. The only weld ones at the time were Steedas.

Like I said, I have CHE and they are bolted in. They are of a higher quality than BMR's. There is only one failure of CHE's known and that was because a required part was not installed. BMR has had quite a few and that is why they revised their installation instructions. If I was to replace them it would be with Steedas. The Steeda's have to be welded in and offer the most adjustment.

BMR only recommends that they be welded if you're racing the car. If it's a daily driver than just bolt them up and go.

I know and have raced against that guy His was the case of pulling very good 60' times using DRs and not having the brackets welded. They are now and his car is running better times and they're holding up fine.

Here is one of us running together in September Of course it had to be my slowest run of the day at 13.32.
YouTube - NVMC Drag Day 9-20-08 (11)