I have a 1995 ford mustang gt mostly stock just recently swapped in 24lb injectors bigger fuel pump and put a fox edelbrock manifold on. it has off road exhaust if that matters. Ive got the car to run and would time it to 12 degrees without the spout connector it runs fine without the spout connector but as soon as I install the spout connector and turn off the car it wont turn back on. Thought the distributor might be giving out so bought a brand new msd ignition distributor and still same results. Ive been up and down the crank but wont start check list and seems like everything else is in order we have spark and fuel. Just wont stay ruining when spout connector is installed any help would be greatly appreciated since this is my daily driver.
Ill provide youtube videos below.

Hi,
Could i get your opinion on what this knocking sound might be.
2003 Mach1, v8 dohc, around 85000km / 52000 miles.
It's most present at 10-13 seconds in the video.

Long Post Incoming...

I am having a bigtime electrical issue that I am hoping I can get some answers/help with. I have used the search bar and read through countless threads describing similar problems, but nobody seems to know or post the actual fix. The threads all fizzle out. I will be as detailed as I can with what changes I have made and what troubleshooting I have done.

I have a 2005 Mustang GT. I am running AM cat-backs, JLT series 3 intake, and bama tune. I previously had an offroad X-pipe on it, but got tired of the codes from not getting it tuned, so I went back with the stock H-pipe. About 3 months prior to going back to the stock H pipe, my AC stopped working and the car started throwing other codes. It began throwing P0443 (EVAP Circuit) and P0645 (AC Clutch Relay Circuit).

I have checked and confirmed that all of my fuses and relays are good.

I changed the purge valve and no change happened. Then I started to troubleshoot the AC. Sometimes the AC works, but most time it does not. It is not low on freon. I checked for power at the fuse box and was getting all power but the ground that the PCM is supposed to send to engage the AC clutch was not there. I could jump the pins and the compressor would run all day. I then went to the clutch cycling switch and jumped the pins and the compressor would run all day. I changed the cycling switch and have not had the AC code since, but still do not have AC.

The next day I was on the interstate and the car just quit...showed the wrench light, lost power, drove to the off-ramp, and it cut off. I ran the codes and got the following: P2105, P151A, P0645, P0600, P0481, P0480, and P0446. Started it back up and had no problems. The next day I took the fuse box completely apart and crimped down each wire connector in the bottom of the fuse box to ensure there was a good connection. I reset the codes and haven't had that problem since.

Now I am getting codes P0135, P0141, P0155, P0161, and P0443.

I am wondering if I have a PCM problem, my tune screwed it up, or something else...just can't seem to figure it out but the problem seems semi-common. Any help? Will cross-post on a couple other places.

While having my motor out for gasket reseals I install a new mini starter plus new cables. Just got the motor in the car and win I fire it up the starter sound like it’s dragging or rubbing on something. The block plate is installed and the wiring is correct, I’ve installed the old style starter years ago and never had this issue. Do it sound like I need shims ? I’ve been reading shims is a GM thing not Ford.

I picked up this project car and am finding things as I go. After market k member, dont know manufacturer. The wheel base is over 102 inches when factory was 100 inches. The front tire to wheel well is terrible. Less then an inch in the front and 3 to the rear. Could the 98 Cobra 5 lug spindles cause this? Help

I have a 2001 Bullitt Mustang that's a daily driver. I've had a couple of other SN95 cars (1994 and 2003), and I've never had a problem filling the tank. On this Bullitt though, if I'm getting gas and lock the handle on the gas pump, by the time the pump shuts off automatically it spits fuel back out the filler neck. It fills the little area with the filler neck, usually runs down the quarter, and it also drains out on the ground back behind the rear tire.

Any ideas what can cause this? I've had the tank down several times. I can't find anything obvious--no kinked lines, no blockages, etc. The tank and filler neck are original to the car. I can't see where anything around the fuel tank has ever been messed with. Any idea on what to try next? The '94 and '03 Mustangs I had never did this. For now, I'm just estimating how much gas the car needs and try to cut it off before it's full.

Just purchased few weeks ago. 32V V8 swapped in. BBK Headers. Mach 1 accessories added. Originally a GT Deluxe. Unfortunately only came with 1 key and no paperwork, other than what small dealer gave me. Carfax shows a trail with 11 owners! Very odd. But, Clean, no reported accidents, and miles seem to keep on track. Just wish I knew miles on engine vs car.

Runs great and has some things to fix. Cruise, thermostat can tell I'd stuck open, speedo reads like it has gear ratio changed for example.

I am indexing my bell housing to my new Dart block, I have a world class T5 and cannot find the specs for centering. Does this look ok or will i need offset dowl pins. All are positive numbers the - if only a marker. Will also check the flywheel for run-out, what are the specs for that ?

So I got the TFS valve spring upgrade kit #TFS-2500100. I’ve just went through and shimmed all the valve seats using the supplied gauge and shims. Most of them went pretty well however I have two or three valves across both heads that I just can’t find a comfortable medium of clearance. Would you all shoot for a little on the looser side or on the tighter side? I have one that I used both the big and small shim and I can fit the gauge but it’s so tight that it leaves an indention on the upward facing shim. If I take away the smaller shim and just run the big one, it’s on the looser side.

Just figured I’d ask for some help here before I end up making the wrong decision. Thanks for any advice

Hi, the instrument bezel was loose at the top left corner and rattled. I saw LMR had a repair kit so I was in the process of doing that. I need to replace the speedo cable so I figured I might as well if I'm going to be in there anyway. I have a few questions now that it's all apart.

1. This bulb fell out when pulling the bezel off and I don't see anywhere that it would go. (See pictures)

2. It looks like someone was in here before trying to fix with glue. I assume during their disassembly they broke some stuff. On the right side there is a bar that looks like it mounted to the bezel but the screws and screw holes are gone. How important are these two screws? If it is securely mounted with the two screw at the windshield and the two by the column is that enough? Last thing I want to do is get it all back together and still have a rattle, lol.

3. While the cluster is out, I'm guessing it's a good idea to replace all the bulbs?

Thanks!

I have for sale a set of vox wheels and tires. The fronts are kumo esta 225/45r18's and the rears are 265/40r18 continental extreme contact dws 06 plus's. The fronts are in great shape they have around 1000-1500 miles on them. The rears are almost done. There about touching the wear bars. However, I do have a set matching kumo's that are 235/45r18. That only have 500miles or less. These came off a foxbody mustang. I'm sure other cars are 4x108 to. I will trade for foxbody parts but I need a good set of 17 inch tires. I do live in Ovid NY and can help deliver for a price. 500$ obo

I didn’t get a pic with them super hot but can anyone advise on what I have going on here?

Working on cleaning up some wiring . I have a Dakota dash and I will be running after market injection so I want to get rid of some of the mess I got.

Can anyone tell me what these plugs and box are for????

Trying to make a daunting decision on which system to purchase for the first time and me being new and a beginner. I really want simplicity and not even considering track needs as my car will be mainly street and town strip. I think I should mention, I am doing a complete transfer to 5.0 in my 1993 4cyl coupe auto , I have the same year foxbody 5.0 convertible as a donor, the car has a carb on it but all the efi is laid to the side absent injector harness and it is a auto, also has converted gas tank to Holley blue racing fuel pump,braided fuel line from tank to carb. As I mentioned wiring is there but really shows its age being crumbly etc but it starts and runs. Has full 5-lug conversion but my 4cylinder notch has brand new tires and rims, so I plan to just swap over the front v8 spindles and purchase the better 4-lug rotors ( if there is the option to fro so ), on the rear I plan to pull v8 differential because has provisions for quad shocks on it and then slide out the axles on my 4cyl and slide them in where I pulled five lug axles out of v8 housing if possible and I do realize my 4cyl is 7.5 but from my research they should go right in the 8.8… Now that I’ve tried to explain my endeavor, what say you on the ENGINE MANAGEMENT SYSTEM? And I guess I should mention I want my a/c to be without flaw if there is such a thing.. I have read on a forum that the iat had a issue (pimpxs) once a/c kicked in but this assume can easily be accommodated, … need to get what is not so pricey and I know there is really NO such thing…

1. Pimpxs and the m-76 harness hopefully has ford connectors?
2. Terminator x
3. Msqpnp2 and I don’t know if I can get a harness?
4. Pro M.. but not realistic Entirely out of Budget!
HELP!! Thanks for even reading this headache…Sincerely Robinson

Is there a trick to getting the bronze door pin bushings out ? I'm slowly breaking them off in pieces.

Hi All,
I'm working on a 94 GT which I'm converting from Auto to Manual transmission. Right now I'm probing the pins at the ECM connector and I'm having issues identifying the pins that go to the VSS and the reverse or backup switch on the MT. I bought the Manual transmission harness but I believe I've got the wrong one. I think the harness I received is the one for the V6. I saw a diagram that shows pins 3 and 6 go to the VSS but with the MT harness connected to the connector at the firewall ONLY pin 3 go the VSS.
Can someone share which pins coming from the ECM go to the VSS and reverse or back up light switch
Can someone show me a picture of the firewall connector pinout distribution? I couldn't find any pictures in the web

For this conversion I have ECM part number F4ZF-12A650-JB but I haven't connected it yet until I sort those issues.

Thank you all

Hey ! How are you all? I have a quick question about the reference wire on my 90 mustang ,5.0.
Does anyone know if the signal return wire continued thru the grey 8 pin or black 8 pin wire leading from ECU to sensors ? It's either Blk / wt or grey/ red. On this new used harness the grey only has five wires on the injector harness wires. The thing might need to be repin it. Thanks ahead for any info on the ref wire. I'll be checking the continuity today.

My question here is how much difference would it make by using 6.250 pushrods instead of the stock 6.248....
Checking the preload with the 6.248 old pushrods and I get just a tick less than 3/4 of a turn which is just right....

If I buy new pushrods, I would like to get some 080 wall thickness and they are easier to find at the 6.250 length..

Anyone been here before? Will it change my preload turns much?? I have the shims, but would prefer not to have to mess with them....
What does anyone think about reusing the old pushrods?? Cleaned up 4 in my solvent tank and they look fine???

Thanks..

Car died on me while driving. I could hear my pump starving for fuel (Gauge read 1/4 tank). Had a buddy bring me some gas, car fired right up. I went to fill up and after 9.6 gallons the tank was full (including what I put in on the side of the road). This means my tank should've had around 6 gallons in it when it died. Are the pickups on these cars prone to failure? Any ideas on what could've happened?

I have a 91 LX convertible with black leather interior. The driver's seat needs reupholstered and I'd like to use it as an excuse to go to a black cloth interior. I'm seeking an original, excellent condition black cloth interior (just posted a WTB ad here: WTB/Trade WTB: original black cloth seats for 90-93 ($$$)) and someone replied that I should look into the TMI cloth set. I looked into it a bit, but there aren't really any good close-ups of the cloth material. Is it their standard coarse tweed or is it closer to the OEM cloth?
If you installed a set of TMI cloth seat upholstery in your car, can you post a few pics? Thanks!

So I'm in the process of assembling my motor after head gaskets and valve seals and I decided to use the garden sprayer method to prime the oiling system, I noticed oil seems to be seeping out of all the cam journals except for the left front most journal so I'm wondering once the motor develops oil pressure that journal will be lubricated or should I go back and remove the cam for further inspection. That head was in the machine shop for a snapped off exhaust manni stud and hot tanked, could some dirt or metal have gotten into the oil passage to that journal?

Picked up a Tremec TR-3550, Do I need a different cross member for this? Seems like when I search it theres lots of different options

85 hatch originally had a T-5 in it

Found this doo-hickey while I had my console removed. It's spring loaded like a door ajar switch. Does it work with the parking brake? It was just hanging out under there.

Hey guys I’m new to the form hopefully I can get some help with my car . I’m not super mechanical inclined but I did pull my transmission out and install a new clutch

But now when I turn my car on push the clutch in and I’m gear then turn it off back In neutral or in gear doesn’t matter but once it’s off I hear a grinding slow spinning noise .
Keep in mind if I turn the car on and just shut it off without putting it in gear it won’t make the sound

Help please

Trouble starting My 71 mach1, 351 Windsor with Summit 4 bbl carb.
As I have mentioned in previous posts I don’t know to much about the engine other than what I have it had done to it.
The new carb, new value covers, new plugs and wires, new electrical connection to choke. New exhaust system, single exhaust too double. New vacuum advance.

Once I get it started and drive it the next day it starts right up. If it sits a week and I go to start it it is hard. I pump it once then half while turning the key. It turns over and over but doesn’t start. I then pump it a few times while turning the key. I think it is going to start but then stops. So I get frustrated and start pumping and pumping and it finally starts. Almost flooded and low battery.

Any suggestions on starting. I have looked at my choke before trying an it is shut.