Build Thread 1978 Mercury Cyclone. The pig is in the pen.

[xecute]

I get it. Your injector rail governs the room you have.


Man you've got a lot more room for big ports with a short radius that good.

Nice.

Having two rails will surely mess show goers up.

Everything else before your effort has been Crash Avoidance Management 101...it was about avoiding restrictions, and not doing it right because of that.


Well, not wrong, but kind off less bold than what you are doing.

Jacks second X flow conversion certainly followed the crimped throttle body spacing, and yours doesn't have that restriction.

Jacks first X flow showed that you didn't have to deviate.

Your ideas allow a heck of a lot more space for proper intake flow.


I didn't suggest the Chrysler Hemi 265 size port, but since everything your doing is so amped up, I guess Tony Andersons "Ando76" Ute head with 1.693 diameter ports with 2-1/4 sq inches of intake port is possible if you wanna stand up for another six hours at a later stage. So another 68 thou up on your 1.625" diameter will work fine.

212 cfm at 25" H20 with a rise of 550 thou was an easy reach with no other major internal porting work.

He made and inital 334 rwhp at 5900 rpm on Methanol 4-bbl carbed with his C4 auto and solid lifter, non roller Chevy OffRoad and Marine 600 thou, 276/274 at lash and 243/242 at 50 thou cam. Its ground off a GM master, on 110 center. In excess of about 460 engine horsepower. Before he blew up the pistons from a richen out, it logged 340 hp at the bags at 5900 rpm. The Pickup is gone, an victum of sooo much work at the burnout pad in front of fans.

View: https://youtu.be/wBCr4Qzfxf8

Same HF early head as yours

You've got much better induction, a more suitable cam, and the whole pacakge will work nice.

My neigbour used an in line Hemi for his Jet Sprint Hamilton Jet boat....all good 4 liter sixes with a nice cam and Independent Runner intakes sound just as good, the Snap Crackle and Pop of the engine isn't just the Methanol......And the fluid slur of a big inch mutha skimming metal over the Earth.




Enjoy your labor.

 

[CarMichael Angelo]

So,....nothin. I'm at work. Counting these last few days till I officially become a Client Advisor instead of a Genius.

That doesn't change the fact that it's still January,..and slow as hell.

But in much the same way as it is with me waking at 3AM, and building the car while I lay in bed with my eyes closed,...I'm building the car while sitting on my ass, pecking on this iPad.

There are now (count em) 5 separate build steps in sequence.

1. Porting head.
2. Building intake transition.
3. Adapting BMW throttle body shaft to fit that transition.
4. Piston/rod swap.
5. Exhaust header build.

As with everything I do, and how it has been every time in the past,...I move around, and leave a bunch of incomplete projects in " mid done " mode.

I have started porting the head,..there are 4 more intake ports to rough out, and all 12 to finish.
A day, probably two of noisy dirty, work.

The throttle bodies will stay on track...another 2-3 days should yield the desired result... once I get the transition welded to the plates on the head, I've gotta cut, and extend the shaft. Then I've got to clean them up, paint them, clear them, reassemble them, and put the thing back together.

The rods are here, but I've got to push the pistons back out, remove the rings, take the pin locks off ( a real btch), and separate the piston from the rod. Then I gotta travel about 50 miles round trip to get them to a shop to swap them over. I'll have to do that 4 times.

The header is half done. I know from experience that it takes a day to build it. Once the other one is done, I've got to put the block back in the car,..run a bolt through the trans to hold it together, and build the down pipe that'll come off of my upward pointing collectors and drop down to meet the down pipe at some YTD cut point.

( then I have to wait till I know that my wife is gonna be on the road so I can paint that header w/VHT header paint, and bake it in her oven at 500 degrees for an hour)

I was concerned that my design was too short to be effective,..but after looking at a few pics of some other headers...I.e.:

My primaries are longer than these...and unlike these, are equal in length. What I won't have is a long transition once the 3 tubes are combined like the one above, as both or my headers will dump directly into the y tube that'll be attached to the downpipe. These primaries look huge though, ( like maybe 1.75") Mine are exactly the same as the port.....1.5"...
Hopefully not a problem though,..I built the rest of the header, and the coupler that'll tie the two banks together while I was in bed a couple of nights ago,.so that design is now burned to my grey matter hard drive.

 

[a91what]

I think the exhaust will look very good Mike don't deviate from the original plan. With that and the ITB setup you will have all kinds of new and interesting questions to answer at the car show.

 

[CarMichael Angelo]

I write this thing assuming that there are people that follow it. I also assume that there are people like Noobz who only occasionally check in, speed read through all of the blather, and look at the pictures.

It's for these reasons that I typically take a step back to recount what has been done, or what I'm planning on doing.

This morning, I pounded a square peg into a round hole.

There is getting to be so many boxes, and half finished projects mounting up, I'm starting to have to move some of the unfinished "half dones" to make room for the new ones. Not wanting to add to that again today I decided that I'd remove the existing half booster on the Monster, and make the 93 Cobra booster fit in its place. Then I could box up the old booster and send it back to redeem the core charge. It'll mean one less thing I'm tripping over, and will put 35. 00 back into my account. so....it made sense to do that today.

The reason for the need to upgrade is that my brakes don't work well. The car stops fine when not in panic mode, but stand on the brake and the pedal bottoms,.......and just doesn't stop the car. Like,....no screeching tires,...no lurching forward....just a "Uhhhh I'm sure glad I didn't have to slam on the brakes, cause I woulda hit that guy" kinda stop. ( obviously, I've tested this scenario a few times w/o actually having a car directly in front of me)

I ordered a 93 Cobra booster from Rock Auto. 65.00 plus a 35.00 dollar core charge. It arrived yesterday.

This morning, I slip downstairs, and asses the project. I'm gonna have to get on my knees. ( I'm not supposed to get on my knees). Nonetheless, I have to do what I have to do.......I strap on my best pair of gel filled pads, and go about the process of unbolting the booster from under the dash. It wasn't so bad...but w/o the pads it would've been.

I get the thing out of there, open the box, and remove the Cobra booster to see if it will fit...

Not in a million years.

The Cobra booster is either gigantic, or the Monsters booster is tiny,..but this was gonna require a significantly dedicated effort if I wanted to make it fit.

And of course I wanted to make it fit.

I chose to cut it away, rather than to try and beat the clearance there. Besides,.......id've had to beat the living hell out of it to make it fit.

The corner of that thing actually sits IN the strut tower,....there is just barely enough room to get the MC bolted on.

I'll weld a recessed plate back in place of the "Bermuda Triangle" that I had to cut out of the strut tower to restore my lost integrity.....I swear I'm gonna end up having so many scratches, chips, holes and patches in this engine compartment, I'll have to re-smooth the damn thing before this "re-ring job" is over and done..

 

[six_sigma]

Mike, I read pretty much every word you write the only thing I skim are xecute's posts, because holy. So please keep it up. It's nice to see that even people with skills (which you have!) have setbacks and it makes it even easier for me to feel ok about bumbling through my own project. In regards to the whole ITB thing HELL YES! Can't wait to see how it comes out.

 

[a91what]

Such a shame you had to remove material to make the booster fit. All in all you are better off cutting it to get the necessary stopping power. Knowing you it wont take long before you have that all fixed up anyhow.

 

[CarMichael Angelo]

Such a shame you had to remove material to make the booster fit. All in all you are better off cutting it to get the necessary stopping power. Knowing you it wont take long before you have that all fixed up anyhow.

Tell me about it. What hasn't been hurt with the cutting and grinding process will get absolutely destroyed as soon as i put the welder to it.

But,.........

That'll be another day,....I got other projects that I want to work on first.

 

[a91what]

Ha your not the only one.... between the hvac system and my desire to redo my TB linkage......

(ill just clutter your thread with this idea)

Take the secondary TB and redrill the linkage arm closer to the shaft, this will make the throw of the linkage shorter. Then take the current aluminum bar and cut an opening in it to provide a "slide" so the Primary TB will move to about 60% open before the secondary starts to open, done right both will be at 100% open at the same time.... should help with surge at low throttle positions.

 

[CarMichael Angelo]

Ha your not the only one.... between the hvac system and my desire to redo my TB linkage......

(ill just clutter your thread with this idea)

Take the secondary TB and redrill the linkage arm closer to the shaft, this will make the throw of the linkage shorter. Then take the current aluminum bar and cut an opening in it to provide a "slide" so the Primary TB will move to about 60% open before the secondary starts to open, done right both will be at 100% open at the same time.... should help with surge at low throttle positions.

.........Oh! Youre talking about YOUR throttle bodies...I was wondering what the hell you were talking about....I got 6 throttle bodies.

I have absolutely no thoughts on this...how does making the other tb progressive affect compressor surge?

Here.....here's just an arbitrary thought....
One
Big
Assed
Throttle
Body.

 

[a91what]

nah i like my dual throttle body monstrosity...

letting both TB open at the same rate makes low speed throttle openings "fun" the bypass often slams shut and the blower makes boost when it is not necessary.

 

[jrichker]

I take it that the hydro boost power brake system used on later model 4V SN95 body cars wasn't an option?

 

[General karthief]

I take it that the hydro boost power brake system used on later model 4V SN95 body cars wasn't an option?

There you go, adding to his early morning thought sessions

 

[xecute]

Okay, its a dollars verses benfit thing. Respect!

You got space now, so off with the Judge Judy eye spin GIF.


http://mrwgifs.com/judge-judy-shake-my-head-gif

I can mix that with the Jon Stewart pop corn ICBM...


http://mrwgifs.com/jon-stewart-spits-out-his-popcorn-gif


You just soo quick, and I didn't wanna post howg, but I really should have last night.

I guess I need to talk more....


Tho'......Last night woulda still been too late for ya, so congrates on being a Son of a Gun Switch Bit Ch with your work practices.

Sistine Chapel Fast Track ....

Group A Mustangs used in Europe and Australia and New Zealand used German homologated Escort and Capri parts via SVO's Michael Kranefuss, father of the IMSA Capri , GTP Mustangs and SVO Mustang.
six_sigma, read every 12th or 13th word...

master
circuit
fluid-tanks
reinforced-lines




Mike, hogg off your brake booster entirely.

adjustable pedal box with dual master cylinder Triton balance bar, just like the World Rallye Escorts and circuit Zakspeed BDA racers.

See http://www.nzmustang.com/Images/History/Racecars/pinepac1.htm

Twin master cylinders are in the cabin, with the fluid-tanks arranged whereever easiest in the engine bay, and supplied by reinforced-lines

If you "no like", try a stock no power brake master from a 1978-1980 non power brake Fox 2.3 or 3.3.

And buy a PBR VH40, and mount it under the front fender.

You can down size the stock one, or delete, and then remote mount the second. There are VH24, VH44 boosters as well, and they are time honoured devices that work great if you can ensure you don't have residual pressure on the rear brake disc's.

https://www.onlineautoparts.com.au/...ower-Booster-Disc-Drum-with-Bracket/ZPN-16668

Used on Right Hand Drive Falcon 289 GT's and old Valiants, and Jag IRS and IFS conversions.

Stock MGB GT Lockheed single cylinder disc brake booster

I've used it on Hilman Hunters, my 1959 Vauxhall Cresta PADX, and they are great for pedal weight reduction




Old cars are still around. A good VH40 is cheap and good valve for 20 bux, and another cost for the rekit. US market MGB's and "Morose" Marinas from Canada are great candidates for finding one. So are Mk1/2 Mini Cooper S's.


Old jag parts, https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Jaguar-Brak...ash=item466bac45d2:g:bkoAAOSwHqRZvBYP&vxp=mtr

 

[six_sigma]

You got space now, so off with the Judge Judy eye spin GIF.


http://mrwgifs.com/judge-judy-shake-my-head-gif


You just soo quick, and I didn't wanna post howg, but I really should have last night.


Last night woulda still been too late for ya, so congrates on being a swithc with your work practices.

Sistine Chapel Fast Track ....

Group A Mustangs used in Europe and Australia and New Zealand used German homologated Escort and Capri parts via SVO's Michael Kranefuss, father of the IMSA Capri , GTP Mustangs and SVO Mustang.
six_sigma, read every 12th or 13th word...

master
circuit
fluid-tanks
reinforced-lines




Mike, hogg off your brake booster entirely.

adjustable pedal box with dual master cylinder Triton balance bar, just like the World Rallye Escorts and circuit Zakspeed BDA racers.

See http://www.nzmustang.com/Images/History/Racecars/pinepac1.htm

Twin master cylinders are in the cabin, with the fluid-tanks arranged whereever easiest in the engine bay, and supplied by reinforced-lines

If you "no like", try a stock no power brake master from a 1978-1980 non power brake Fox 2.3 or 3.3.

And buy a PBR VH40, and mount it under the front fender.

You can down size the stock one, or delete, and then remote mount the second. There are VH24, VH44 boosters as well, and they are time honoured devices that work great if you can ensure you don't have residual pressure on the rear brake disc's.

https://www.onlineautoparts.com.au/...ower-Booster-Disc-Drum-with-Bracket/ZPN-16668

Used on Right Hand Drive Falcon 289 GT's and old Valiants, and Jag IRS and IFS convsions.

I've used it on Hilman Hunters, my 1959 Vauxhall Cresta PADX, and they are great for pedal weight reduction

Holy crap, I got all that after only 2 read throughs! I have never seen brake setups like that. Very cool.

 

[CarMichael Angelo]

I 'll do this before I drag myself to the shower, and then to bed.

Got off at 5 today,..The wife is traveling, so that left me time to work on the throttle body transition. I needed to get the flange plate drilled, cut, and fitted to the head so that I could weld the thing up.

It took the better part of 6 hours to do, but I did it.

Visible in the pic is the little chinky-doo I had to weld on the end of the plate to extend it far enough to add the other bolt holes so the outside throttle bodies could bolt up.

I still have some detail work, ( i wanna try and match up the bottom turn radius(s). Some are flat, some are dented...I don't like it). and there is some port blending left to do before I can call this thing done, but it's much closer tonight than it was earlier today.

 

[xecute]

Ohhhhh, yummmmmy.

And while Mikes doing that, I'll provide the Elevator Music by Slide Trumbone. This is what Fuel standoff is, and why ITB's make so much unfettled grunt


View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XdU0T7r5zcQ


Compare 1975's effort with the system used in the later small six based V12 BMW engine. No fuel standoff issues with the later ITB's and electronic under throttle body injection..


View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZLPWNz_Ye1k

 

[Noobz347]

Ohhhhh, yummmmmy.

And while Mikes doing that, I'll provide the Elevator Music by Slide Trumbone. This is what Fuel standoff is, and why ITB's make so much unfettled grunt


View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XdU0T7r5zcQ


Compare 1975's effort with the system used in the later small six based V12 BMW engine. No fuel standoff issues with the later ITB's and electronic under throttle body injection..


View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZLPWNz_Ye1k

Perfect!


The neighbors will NEVER figure out why Mike gets up each and every weekday morning and cuts one really gnarly plank of wood before going to work.

 

[CarMichael Angelo]

Ok,.....now I have my wits about me...last night I was not about anything more involved than just the facts...

Today is a brand new day.

I gotta do something about air filtration..so I'm thinkin that I'll buy these things.

Only problem is that there is a significant choke point at the TB clamping point. The base will fit my 2-3/16" diameter TB flange,..but that throat.....it's gonna be smaller in diameter than my actual opening. I don't know how bad that would be, but considering that these things cost 80.00 for the 6 of them,...I'd hate to throw 80 dollars away.

I really don't have any choices though,..there are no other V stacks to fit those throttle bodies. Everything else fits a Weber and they are significantly smaller...so, Guess I'll have to risk it.

 

[a91what]

Ok,.....now I have my wits about me...last night I was not about anything more involved than just the facts...

Today is a brand new day.

I gotta do something about air filtration..so I'm thinkin that I'll buy these things.

Only problem is that there is a significant choke point at the TB clamping point. The base will fit my 2-3/16" diameter TB flange,..but that throat.....it's gonna be smaller in diameter than my actual opening. I don't know how bad that would be, but considering that these things cost 80.00 for the 6 of them,...I'd hate to throw 80 dollars away.

I really don't have any choices though,..there are no other V stacks to fit those throttle bodies. Everything else fits a Weber and they are significantly smaller...so, Guess I'll have to risk it.

I would wait to pull the trigger on those, give the collective enough time and we may come up with a viable alternative for you...

OR with some ingenuity i bet you could make your own stacks with thin wall pipe and a hammer.... i know i saw a video on youtube detail how to do it.

 

[CarMichael Angelo]

I would wait to pull the trigger on those, give the collective enough time and we may come up with a viable alternative for you...

OR with some ingenuity i bet you could make your own stacks with thin wall pipe and a hammer.... i know i saw a video on youtube detail how to do it.

I.......think I'm done with building one-off junk for a little while.
By the time the induction is done, the Cobra R master cylinder is hacked in, the header, and related exhaust is complete...my "need" to build sht will be more than satisfied...

It's still gonna be a month, I'm thinking before Ill be able to start this thing again, so I have some time to figure out how I'm gonna deal with air filtration w/o ruining the aesthetic.