Engine Block identification help

[pindude80]

Hello all, I recently bought a 1988 Mustang GT. It has a cracked cylinder wall.

I am trying to find a good short block. I ran across a full motor but I'm not sure if it is a roller motor or not. It definitely does not have a roller cam because the firing order is standard.

I got the casting codes located near the starter. Does anyone know what year engine this is or if it is a roller?

 

[Noobz347]

It appears to say "E7TE". If so, it's a roller block.

 

[General karthief]

There are non HO roller engines.

 

[pindude80]

It appears to say "E7TE". If so, it's a roller block.

That's what I thought it said also. Good to know E7TE means it's a roller. Thanks for letting me know

 

[pindude80]

There are non HO roller engines.

I knew this wasn't a HO engine but I wasn't sure if it was a roller block or not until Noobz347 let me know the E7TE casting means this is a roller block.

 

[pindude80]

I was told this engine came out of an early 90s LTD. Does anyone know what heads and pistons this engine would have? I am thinking flat top pistons and E6 heads but I don't know for sure.

 

[General karthief]

Generally they have lower compression, no 'eye brows', E7's and they don't play well with bigger valves, at least that was my experience with a crown vic 5.0.

 

[pindude80]

Ok, I am wanting to run GT40 heads, and a F cam. Sounds like the LTD short block wouldn't be the best choice then

 

[limp]

Ok, I am wanting to run GT40 heads, and a F cam. Sounds like the LTD short block wouldn't be the best choice then

Have you tried to locate a 96-2001 Explorer or Mountaineer engine at a wrecking yard?

 

[pindude80]

Have you tried to locate a 96-2001 Explorer or Mountaineer engine at a wrecking yard?

That was my first choice. I was supposed to get one that had 120k miles on it. They pulled it and said it was bad. I have a line on another one but waiting to hear back from them.

 

[Mustang5L5]

That number highlighted there is the date code. Can you read that?


I believe the E7TE block was 87-90. In 1991 Ford started using the F1SE block in the 91-95 Mustangs and other vehicles.

 

[FoxChasis]

That number highlighted there is the date code. Can you read that?


I beleive the E7TE block was 87-90. In 1991 Ford started using the F1SE block in the 91-95 Mustangs and other vehicles.

It's in the second pic.

9K14

Cast on October 14, 1989.

 

[Mustang5L5]

Thanks. Not sure how I missed that.

 

[pindude80]

I believe the E7TE block was 87-90. In 1991 Ford started using the F1SE block in the 91-95 Mustangs and other vehicles.

This is good info to have in my search for a good roller block. Thanks for posting it!

 

[pindude80]

Went and picked up a '97 Explorer GT40 engine today. 120k miles, pulled oil pan, everything looked good then I looked over and saw the engine mounts. one had a broken bolt and the other three were broke off. I guess it came out of a vehicle that took a hard hit in the front and it snapped them off. Luckily the junkyard is cool and is returning it. They have another one but it has over 200k miles

 

[AeroCoupe]

www.car-part.com

 

[pindude80]

www.car-part.com

that's where I've been looking.

 

[limp]

Are you worried about block damage with the one you had? or just did not want to deal with removing the broken bolts from the block?

 

[pindude80]

Are you worried about block damage with the one you had? or just did not want to deal with removing the broken bolts from the block?

It has one broken bolt- not worried about that. I'm not worried about block damage either. 3 out of the 4 motor mount ears were sheared off the block. There is no way to bolt down motor mounts. I ended up buying it from the junkyard as a "core" for $200 since it is a full GT40 motor from oil pan to intake. I thought about taking it to a local welding shop at some point to see if they are able to repair it.

 

[limp]

It has one broken bolt- not worried about that. I'm not worried about block damage either. 3 out of the 4 motor mount ears were sheared off the block. There is no way to bolt down motor mounts. I ended up buying it from the junkyard as a "core" for $200 since it is a full GT40 motor from oil pan to intake. I thought about taking it to a local welding shop at some point to see if they are able to repair it.

OK, I follow you now.... Not good......