No power on I side of ignition solenoid after T5 swap and rebuild.

[ks65stang]

I just rebuilt the 289 on my 65 Coupe and swapped in a T5 from a C4. Engine started w/ the ignition switch prior to the rebuild / swap. Car wouldn't start after install so I hard wired the + side of the coil to the + on the battery and crossed over the ignition switch w/ a pair of pliers to get is started. Completed break in and now I need to resolve the wiring issue.

I have no power on I side of ignition solenoid with key in the crank position and in the on position I do have power on the S side.

I figured the 47 year old wiring harness was shot, so I bought a new one and installed it and no start. Solenoid is good, tested, and recently replaced. I have done nothing with the neutral safety switch? My neutral safety wiring has 4 wires and 2 plugs (see pic) and I have jumped it over every combo and it does nothing. How do these wires need jumped to start?

I reviewed the wiring digram in the below link and it only has 2 wires for the neutral safety switch?

http://www.hammar.dyndns.org/~djhamma/wiring/1965/1965c.jpg

Also FYI, the starter will crank w/ the coil + side disconnected and in the on position of the keyed switch (not the crank position, the on position). I'm hoping this is a neutral safety switch issue?

Suggestions?

Thanks in advance!

 

[horse sence]

the wires going down to the shift select switch for the auto matic shifter need to be jumped. it will be the two black with red stripe wires in the 4 wire plug comming out of the fire wall . the 4 speed cars just had a plug that jumped the wires.

 

[horseballz]

A>With key on, not in start position, you should have no voltage at "S" and maybe 6 or 12-13 volts at "I" wire but not at the "I" terminal with the wire disconnected. It would likely be 12-13 volts at disconnected the wire, IF:
1-You installed any after market ignition box (MSD, etc) and/or bypassed the ignition resistor coming from the switch.
B>With key in start position, you should have 12-13 volts at the "S" wire to activate the "S" terminal and the starter should be cranking and the solenoid should also provide 12 volts to the "I" terminal even with no wire on it.

It sounds as though you may have the "S" and "I" wires crossed in addition to not having the neutral safety properly bypassed/jumpered, like this:

2 of the wires go to the reverse light switch and the other 2 go to the neutral safety switch. without the switch or a jumper in place you will get nothing to the actual "S" wire. For testing/troubleshooting purposes, you could simply cut the wires at your old switch (with the little harness plugged in), strip them and twist them together, thus creating a jumper.
HTH,
Gene

 

[horseballz]

Sorry, I posted a pic of a 68 jumper, but same concept for the 65, just ignoring the part about the reverse lights.
Gene

 

[tos]

Sounds like your nuetral safety switch wiring. As mentioned above you'll have to jump your old connecter that went to your old tranny or hook it up to your t5 nuetral safety switch and then make sure your tranny is in nuetral before trying to start.

 

[ks65stang]

OK, so I ran a jumper for the neutral safety across to the two red wires w/ black stripes and switched the wire on the "I" side of the solenoid to the "S" and then switched the other wire and now she cranks in the cranking position and the coil has power as it should while cranking and in the on position.

I think my T5 only has a back up light switch, So I will wire some type if switch for the clutch pedal, any one have any suggestions here?

Thanks and now I need to set the timing.......but wife is sleeping and our first born is due any day, oh well. This is why I'm so slow at working on the Stang.

 

[tos]

You should have both, The backup light switch is on the side of the tranny and the nuetral switch is on the very top near the front of the tranny and will have a short harness coming of it. Unless someone removed it.

 

[ks65stang]

Yea, the T5 neutral switch has been removed. The guy who rebuilt it filled it in w/ gray gasket silicone. I would consider adding this switch if it can be used a neutral safety switch. I have read these switch cant handle 12 volts and lot of guys leave a needed pin out when they rebuild? I assume my T5 guy left the pin out and will do an alternative switch on the pedal of some sort......this will be on the back burner for a long while.

Thanks!