No Spark from Coil to Distributor

[Jlr202729]

Recently got a 1984 5.0L, M VIN. 79,000 miles. Edelbrock Carb, mild cam.

No spark from coil to distributor.

So far I’ve replaced (in order):

battery, ignition control module, ignition coil, & ignition pickup/stator.

Confirmed 12v to the ignition coil and that all spark plug wires are functioning. Good fuel pressure & air intake. Good compression. Distributor rotates when cranking. Stator is receiving adequate power. Verified a kill switch is not present & that the ignition switch is working. Has a minor power steering fluid leak.

Was running beautifully but felt slightly underpowered as it wasn’t breaking the tires loose. Had to Replace both window motors & regulators. Did driver side with no issues, replaced the passenger side a day later and went to move it & experienced a no start. I replaced the battery, thought it was odd it died since I was only turning the car on momentarily to adjust the window motors then turning back off. Looked at most of the spark plugs, no fouling. Used a test light, nothing from the ignition coil to the distributor. Smelled burning electronics when trying to crank, noticed ICM was boiling hot. Looked at the ignition control module and the entire backside was melted… must have been for some time due to the severity. As mentioned fired the parts cannon to no avail. Swapped the functioning MSD ignition coil back to stock spec.

 

[Mcmahst]

I’m worried you’re changing electrical stuff and not disconnecting the battery first. While it may be ok, a time is coming, maybe has already happened, when that will cause additional problems.

I think your problem is a dead short or something electrical with the window switch or new motor. Likely, a new problem follows the last change. I would disconnect the door wiring for the windows and see if the car starts. Just my 2 cents. I’m sure others will chime in.

 

[4cylredfox89]

I've been chasing this type of issue but for a 2.3 89 hatchback, I havent gotten anywhere close to why I'm losing acceleration power any time the throttle plate is opened more than 1/4 th throttle.. I've been watching alot of scannerdanner on YouTube, and hopefully one day one day I can get a machine like his and boom. But sometimes it tries to turn over right the key Is turned to start then acts like it has no fuel or spark.

Like mcmahst said it could be a short anywhere and start the last place you touched.

As im reading this,I know I my driver window would get stuck with the door was partially open then stop if it had moved more open, two wires looked cut but probably just being old I connected them back, and at the same time my car has always had the negative battery cable to chassis driver side fenderwall and I had replaced my battery terminals and thought it would be a good idea to add it back it on and thats when i have this issues and check engine light after the car has always ran great and a newer engine put it 2 1/2 years ago. So here I am now. I hope we can find our issues I hate driving like a grandma tractor!! Haha. Thanks

 

[Mcmahst]

Like Im said to lots of folks with question, a picture is worth a close guess. None of us would try and do an adequate diagnosis of the problem without looking at the parts and surrounding area. So, help us help you; post pics of the stuff you worked on, and areas where you’re concerned. It just might help loosen a few brain cells to resolve the issue.

 

[limp]

Isnt' the plug by the ignition switch a weak point with these? or was this in the later FI models?
If you were turning the switch on off on off, maybe something finally let go due to age??