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This kit is an almost complete kit of the Summit racing's Universal rod Builder Kit SUM -670246 which usually lists for 299.99. Missing from the kit is (1) 180 degree bend. I also trimmed a 90 deg bend and a 45 degree bend, those are the ones in the pictures not in plastic, which are included...

Nice job!! Glad it went in easier for you than mine did. How are you going to deal with the wheel wells?

Makes me glad I'm tone deaf!

I tried that too, but it made the gap area around the front cross member even worse than it already was and it wouldn't line up with the hump on the firewall. Ultimately, when I pulled it down with sheet metal screws the gap came back.

I had the same choice and went with the full floor plan. Their are pro's and cons to both. The full floor plan did not fit well. It was not wide enough (do a search and you'll see it is common problem). I cut the flange off the long pans and used that to make up the difference. Also the area...

Summit racing has one too Search Results for rotisserie - SummitRacing.com

Deep freeze - probably cracked the block. You'd be lucky if it's a blown head gasket

If your smelling fuel at idle but your plugs look fine then you need to look at the idle circuit first. What is your vacuum and RPM at idle? There are step-up springs that are used to hold the metering rods down into the primary jets at idle. You can get different springs for different...

Ditto what Jackson said. I was going to do my toeboards but the repops fit was so bad and required so much "manipulation" I bought the whole firewall and cut out what I needed.

Keep a log for us and post it as you go along. It will be interesting to see how you do it. I'm thinking if you brace it well and mount the body on a rotisserie it might make it easier to lift the body off.

Ah yes, I couldn't tell the rear frame rails and suspension mounting points were included. It looked like you just needed to remove the front floor supports and then cut out the rest of floor and trunk area (probably in pieces would be easier). You would really want to make sure the car is...

Ha, mine is not that bad! My pans were rusted near the toeboards but severly banged up near the back side, it looked like the PO hit a curb. After cutting out the "long floor Pan" area and reading some posts it seemed as though it would be easier to replace the whole floor. Actually you just...

right. Mine did not include the trunk area and floor supports (although I installed new floor supports and 2 torque boxes) Are you planning on putting in torque boxes? Now is the time to do it. Make sure you square the car before you cut out that much metal. I still think you will still...

I'm doing the full floor pan right now on my 67. I can tell you it will not fit perfect. Check my thread here Full floorpan - Gap at rear TB - Vintage Mustang Forums In hindsight I would only cut out the bad areas - nothing more. I would also leave a flange at the rocker and lap weld...

Anyone installed the full floor plan and had a gap at the rear torque box? If so how did you handle it.

After fitting it up on top of the flange, I noticed that the right flange is a tad bit higher than the left, so I refit it with it under the flange. It fits really well and that's how I ended up installing it.

My drivers side TB was mounted above the flange In hindsight, I guess it doesn't really matter since there will always be an offset either with the flange or the torque box. I think I will go on top and pull it down to the other flange

Interesting thought putting it underneath. I will keep that in mind when I mock it all up

I seperated the torque box into two pieces. Here I have it clamped and screwed into place. The top of the box spot welds to one side of the frame rail flange so that makes it higher than the other side by the thickness of the torque box steel (16 gauge I think)

I'm putting in a TB on the passenger side. The box adds height onto one of the frame rail flanges. How are you handling the difference in height? Are you welding a shim onto the other flange to even them up, or forcing the toeboardto conform to the difference? Thanks,