(03 Gt Auto) Superchargers
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Stick with 3.55's or stock with a supercharger. Transmission oil cooler too. Depending on the HP wanted you may have to beef up your tranny if you want it to last. There are a lot of possibilities with forced induction, what power level are you looking for, how many miles on the drivetrain.
robertsa
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With turbocharging, I would recommend staying with a higher gear ratio in the rear end, but there's nothing wrong with 4.10's and a SC. You'd better have some good rubber to get it to grab though.
I've used Vortech a couple times with good results. Procharger seems to make more power. Centrifugal is easier to install. You mentioned Kenne Bell; they make great stuff too if you want to go the positive displacement route. For a street car, it'll probably be more fun. I used centrifugal because I primarily drag raced them. I drive like an old lady on public roads so the PD superchargers have never really interested me much.
I've used Vortech a couple times with good results. Procharger seems to make more power. Centrifugal is easier to install. You mentioned Kenne Bell; they make great stuff too if you want to go the positive displacement route. For a street car, it'll probably be more fun. I used centrifugal because I primarily drag raced them. I drive like an old lady on public roads so the PD superchargers have never really interested me much.
I run a Vortech V3 ysi on my 04 GT auto with a 3.33" pulley and the CX racing FMIC kit with Anderson PP and 3.73 gears. Stock engine, full exhaust headers back, T-body and upper intake. 10 psi at 6000 rpm. With a super safe tune that allows the bottom end to stay together it made 370 rwhp and 350 rwtq on 93 pump gas through the old high mileage trans and slightly slipping stock converter.(89k miles)
Intercooler is a restriction but I figured a cheap restrictive intercooler was better than no Intercooler for now. Will upgrade to a treadstone FMIC down the road when the engine is built to handle more power.
Since the tune I built a trans for it that can handle 800-1000 hp (overkill I know, I didn't want breakage in the future) and put in a PA 2400 converter with a B&M ratchet shifter and replaced the catted X pipe with a straight h pipe. Still trying to figure out where I can mount an aux trans cooler but I did put the deep aluminum pan on the trans which helps cooling a bit.
For a fun street car it's really quick and loud. I can't even go WOT on the streets around here without scaring myself. lol Haven't got to run it at the track yet but I'm thinking it would be in the 12's somewhere depending on traction.
Can be driven normally around town with no issues on wet roads since all the power is up top.
Intercooler is a restriction but I figured a cheap restrictive intercooler was better than no Intercooler for now. Will upgrade to a treadstone FMIC down the road when the engine is built to handle more power.
Since the tune I built a trans for it that can handle 800-1000 hp (overkill I know, I didn't want breakage in the future) and put in a PA 2400 converter with a B&M ratchet shifter and replaced the catted X pipe with a straight h pipe. Still trying to figure out where I can mount an aux trans cooler but I did put the deep aluminum pan on the trans which helps cooling a bit.
For a fun street car it's really quick and loud. I can't even go WOT on the streets around here without scaring myself. lol Haven't got to run it at the track yet but I'm thinking it would be in the 12's somewhere depending on traction.
Can be driven normally around town with no issues on wet roads since all the power is up top.
I’d hold on getting gears.
Save your money for your forced induction choice so that when you are at the power level you like you can pick the right gear for how you use the car. My car is mostly a street car so stock gears and NT05’s mean I still have traction on a warm day in second gear. I love it.
I went with the V-3 tuner kit similar to this:
http://www.stage3motorsports.com/4F...V-3-Si-Trim-Supercharger-Tuner-Kit-Satin.html
I added on the fuel pump of my choice, went with a SCT tuner, SCT MAF, custom powerpipe / front intercooler setup, and 47 lb injectors. Perfect for my eventual goal of 500rwhp.
Save your money for your forced induction choice so that when you are at the power level you like you can pick the right gear for how you use the car. My car is mostly a street car so stock gears and NT05’s mean I still have traction on a warm day in second gear. I love it.
I went with the V-3 tuner kit similar to this:
http://www.stage3motorsports.com/4F...V-3-Si-Trim-Supercharger-Tuner-Kit-Satin.html
I added on the fuel pump of my choice, went with a SCT tuner, SCT MAF, custom powerpipe / front intercooler setup, and 47 lb injectors. Perfect for my eventual goal of 500rwhp.
KB's are typically plug and play since they can only be installed by an authorized seller. Did you get it used?
to the OP
track car: Centrifugal blower or turbo
street car: Root or twins screw
dont go above 3:55 gears on a street car with a blower. 1st gear would be useless.
It comes down to how you drive it - RPM is the number one killer of motors. My stock 2v shortblock has had no issues for 3 years of daily driving / highway onramp blasts under boost.
For the OP - If you regularly are at redline or you spend a good chunk of time at the track then I would de-tune (safely tune) to keep the power down under 400rwhp until you can buy forged internals. Some get a very safe pulley / tune to the upper 300rwhp range (6 psi / 370rwhp range). There are a wide range of possible setups- how aggressive you want to go comes down to your driving style, your wallet, and your level of acceptance of risk.
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The bottom end was forged......but yes, it didnt last long. My oil pump gave out at the track and I lost the motor. Thats why I went 4V
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