04 v6 one click when trying to start

elrobbe

New Member
Mar 9, 2018
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Escondido CA
#1
Soo recently i flipped my car over but i was able to flip it back right side up hauled it back home and was told to let it sit before trying to start because it could explode ? when i try to start it, it makes one click and thats it. i removed the spark plugs and cleaned the wells still only one click wont start. help ?
 
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wmburns

SN Certified Technician
Aug 14, 2009
4,539
277
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Houston Texas
#2
WOW!

Are you able to bar the motor over by hand from the front crank damper?

IF so likely this is a starter issue. Will need to trouble shoot to see if the starter is getting enough current to do it's job.

Have you checked the battery terminals? Are they clean and tight? Has the battery been tested?

Where does the "click" come from? The starter or somewhere else?

Turn the head lights on. Are they bright? Do the head lights dim when attempting to crank the motor?

Howto perform charging system voltage drop test
https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-fo...perform-charging-system-voltage-drop-test.56/
 

elrobbe

New Member
Mar 9, 2018
4
0
1
19
Escondido CA
#3
WOW!

Are you able to bar the motor over by hand from the front crank damper?

IF so likely this is a starter issue. Will need to trouble shoot to see if the starter is getting enough current to do it's job.

Have you checked the battery terminals? Are they clean and tight? Has the battery been tested?

Where does the "click" come from? The starter or somewhere else?

Turn the head lights on. Are they bright? Do the head lights dim when attempting to crank the motor?

Howto perform charging system voltage drop test
https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-fo...perform-charging-system-voltage-drop-test.56/
By baring the motor over you mean by turning the underdrive pully ? if so i can not. the battery works the lights works. when i try to turn it on the underdrive pully will move slightly then go back
 

wmburns

SN Certified Technician
Aug 14, 2009
4,539
277
154
Houston Texas
#4
the battery works the lights works.
I suspect that you do not understand the purpose of the head light test. The test is not to just ask if the head lights work. The essence of the test is to deduce how much current the stater is drawing by LOOKING at the brightness of the head lights.

IF the headlights do NOT DIM at all THEN that means the starter isn't drawing any current.

IF the headlights dim slightly during cranking THEN that means likely the battery and starter is drawing a normal amount of current.

IF the headlights go out during cranking THEN that either means there's a weak connection or the starter is drawing too much current.

Think of this a "low tech" hillbilly current draw test.

By baring the motor over you mean by turning the underdrive pully? if so i can not. when i try to turn it on the underdrive pully will move slightly then go back
What we are trying to determine is IF the motor is locked up internally and that is the reason WHY the starter isn't able to crank over the motor. If baring a motor over by hand it's NORMAL to have some resistance during the compression stroke. The trick is to know the difference between normal compression and a motor that has internal "issues".

The resistance of a normal compression has a "springy" feel to it. In addition if moderate pressure is applied to normal compression the motor will continue to turn slowly as the compression bleeds off.
 

elrobbe

New Member
Mar 9, 2018
4
0
1
19
Escondido CA
#5
I suspect that you do not understand the purpose of the head light test. The test is not to just ask if the head lights work. The essence of the test is to deduce how much current the stater is drawing by LOOKING at the brightness of the head lights.

IF the headlights do NOT DIM at all THEN that means the starter isn't drawing any current.

IF the headlights dim slightly during cranking THEN that means likely the battery and starter is drawing a normal amount of current.

IF the headlights go out during cranking THEN that either means there's a weak connection or the starter is drawing too much current.

Think of this a "low tech" hillbilly current draw test.


What we are trying to determine is IF the motor is locked up internally and that is the reason WHY the starter isn't able to crank over the motor. If baring a motor over by hand it's NORMAL to have some resistance during the compression stroke. The trick is to know the difference between normal compression and a motor that has internal "issues".

The resistance of a normal compression has a "springy" feel to it. In addition if moderate pressure is applied to normal compression the motor will continue to turn slowly as the compression bleeds off.
I had the starter tested and it was no good. put a new one in and when i tried to start it the battery died. and the negative cable was smoking and sparked. could it be the wires ?
 

wmburns

SN Certified Technician
Aug 14, 2009
4,539
277
154
Houston Texas
#6
Sooooooooooooooo have you considered that the motor is indeed locked up?

Because the motor was locked up forcing the original starter to turn a locked motor burned up the original starter.

New starter works but is still unable to turn over a locked up motor. But the new starter draws more current during it's failed attempt. Kills battery.

New battery is now able to supply more current. Along with the new battery and starter the current flow is enough to get the battery cables hot.

IMO it's a bad idea to focus next on the battery cables. If the motor is locked up all this will accomplish is burning up a new starter and draining a new battery. This is why the first test given was to find out IF the motor could be barred over by hand (not locked up).
 

elrobbe

New Member
Mar 9, 2018
4
0
1
19
Escondido CA
#7
Sooooooooooooooo have you considered that the motor is indeed locked up?

Because the motor was locked up forcing the original starter to turn a locked motor burned up the original starter.

New starter works but is still unable to turn over a locked up motor. But the new starter draws more current during it's failed attempt. Kills battery.

New battery is now able to supply more current. Along with the new battery and starter the current flow is enough to get the battery cables hot.

IMO it's a bad idea to focus next on the battery cables. If the motor is locked up all this will accomplish is burning up a new starter and draining a new battery. This is why the first test given was to find out IF the motor could be barred over by hand (not locked up).
i got the car to start alot of smoke came out. the oil that was in the wells i just took the spark plugs out and cranked it for a while and it shot it right out. I moved the fuel pump and starter fuses around and changed the terminal because the other one was loose (even with a nail.) but now the it makes this click sound while running. :shrug: well on too the next problem. thanks for the help thought !
 

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