I see you under my last post, jrichker. Your guides have helped me immensely.
Please bless us with your insight.
While engine was in no-start condition I tested for power on those pins while in Run and Start and they both are within spec. Also tested for continuity between the PIP pin 6 on the TFI harness and pin 56 on the ECM and found they have a good connection, 0.65ohms. Also, tested for spark with an inline spark tester and it's got great spark while in no-start condition. The Lincoln guys I'm talking to believe this means the PIP is working since there's spark, and the computer is getting the PIP signal since there's a good connection, but somehow the computer is failing to give ground pulse to the injectors. So far the only guess they have is voltage drop issue, but I'm not too sure what I need to test next to verify this. I did try cleaning up all the connections on the starter relay and battery terminals but this had no effect.
Mine acts exactly the same way. Very odd how it could seemingly continue to operate indefinitely just fine as long as it never turns off. Really makes a guy suspect of the Start circuit.
You may not have a code 14 but still have a PIP sensor problem. The information here on Stangnet points to a deteriorating quality of PIP sensors and TFI modules. It is not uncommon to get several new DOA or marginal electronic parts right out of the box.
Code 14 - Ignition pickup (PIP) was erratic – the Hall Effect sensor in the distributor is failing. Bad sensor, bad wiring, dirty contacts. Factory tach will sometimes read erratically.
Revised 8-Apr-2017 to correct SPOUT problem symptoms wording
The PIP is a Hall Effect magnetic sensor that triggers the TFI and injectors. There is a shutter wheel alternately covers and uncovers a fixed magnet as it rotates. The change in the magnetic field triggers the sensor.
They are often heat sensitive, increasing the failure rate as the temperature increases.
PIP Sensor functionality, testing and replacement:[
The PIP is a Hall Effect magnetic sensor that triggers the TFI and injectors. There is a shutter wheel alternately covers and uncovers a fixed magnet as it rotates. The change in the magnetic field triggers the sensor. A failing PIP sensor will often set code 14 in the computer. They are often heat sensitive, increasing the failure rate as the temperature increases.
Some simple checks to do
before replacing the PIP sensor or distributor:
You will need a Multimeter or DVM with good batteries: test or replace them before you get started. You may also need some extra 16-18 gauge wire to extend the length of the meter’s test leads.
Visual check first: look for chaffed or damaged wiring and loose connector pins in the TFI harness connector.
Check the IDM wiring – dark green/yellow wire from the TFI module to pin 4 on the computer. There is a 22K Ohm resistor in the wiring between the TFI and the computer. Use an ohmmeter to measure the wire resistance from the TFI to the computer. You should see 22,000 ohms +/- 10%.
Check the PIP wiring - dark blue from the TFI module to pin 56 on the computer. Use an ohmmeter to measure the wire resistance from the TFI to the computer. You should see 0.2-1.5 ohms.
Check the SPOUT wiring – yellow/lt green from the TFI module to pin 36 on the computer. Use an ohmmeter to measure the wire resistance from the TFI to the computer. You should see 0.2-1.5 ohms.
Check the black/orange wire from the TFI module to pin 16 on the computer. Use an ohmmeter to measure the wire resistance from the TFI to the computer. You should see 0.2-1.5 ohms.
Check the red/green wire; it should have a steady 12-13 volts with the ignition switch on and the engine not running.
Check the red/blue wire; it should have a steady 12-13 volts with the ignition switch in Start and the engine not running. Watch out for the fan blades when you do this test, since the engine will be cranking.
If you do not find any chaffed or broken wires, high resistance connections or loose pins in the wiring harness, replace the PIP sensor or the distributor.
The PIP sensor is mounted in the bottom of the distributor under the shutter wheel. In stock Ford distributors, you have to press the gear off the distributor shaft to get access to it to replace it. Most guys just end up replacing the distributor with a reman unit for about $75 exchange
PIP problems & diagnostic info
Spark with the SPOUT out, but not with the SPOUT in suggests a PIP problem. The PIP signal level needs to be above 6.5 volts to trigger the computer to pulse the fuel injectors, but only needs to be 5.75 volts to trigger the TFI module. Hence with a weak PIP signal, and the SPOUT in, you could get spark but no injector pulse. You will need an oscilloscope or graphing DVM to measure the output voltage since it is not a straight DC voltage.
Also look at the TPS voltage since a TPS voltage over 4 volts shuts off the fuel injectors when cranking. This helps to clear a flooded engine condition, since the temporary fix to start a flooded engine is to press the accelerator all the way to the floor.