Build Thread 1990 Lx 5.0 Restomod Build

Discussion in 'Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech' started by boostfrk, Aug 6, 2012.

  1. Thanks. When I was working on the trunk the other day I realized I had forgotten to freshen up the plastic piece that in on the bottom of the trunk lid. I pulled it off, washed and prepped it, painted it, let it sit for a day and threw it back on. Looks great and was easy to do now that I know how to go about it.

    Got the door lock actuator problem fixed. The driver's side switch wasn't bad; somehow the wire that delivers constant 12V power had lost power so the switch wasn't getting any power. I used the below diagram and discovered it should be the black/white wire. I tore off the electrical tape and traced it all the way back to the door harness plug that resides just inside the cabin up underneath the dash. The wire had power on the cabin side of the plug but it didn't on the door side of the plug.

    I couldn't see anything visibly wrong with it, so I just worked around the connector. I ran a new wire from inside the cabin, out through the door jamb and out to the switch. Switch works now. Not sure what happened or why the wire lost power...hopefully my fix stays solid.

    While I was doing all this I also took the opportunity to clean up the door jambs just a tad. The PO had pulled new speaker wire from the head unit to the door speakers, but he didn't pull it through the black rubber tube that runs from the door to the cabin. Additionally, these boots were hanging loose so just asking for water to get into the door or the cabin. I used a fish tape and pulled the speaker wire through the rubber tube on both doors as well as my new wire I ran for the driver's side lock. Then I was able to seal the boots properly where they go through the metal.

  2. Trying to make one of the final pushes. Today I'm ordering:

    - New armrest pads
    - New chrome strips that go between armrest pad and armrest
    - New door handle bezels
    - New door locking knobs/pins
    - New mirror trim covers
    - New dome light switch for driver's door

    After this I should be able to finish the door panels and get those back on which won't happen until next week after I receive all these parts. I still need to fab up some mounting plates for the 5.25" speakers I'm putting in the back, and then purchase a set of components for the front. Planning on putting the driver/woofer in the door with the tweeter in the dash.
  3. Got some work done on the door panels this weekend. On several of the holes the cardboard was torn allowing the pin to pull out of the hole, and not providing a tight fit for the door panel. I saw this general concept on Stangnet somewhere...

    Picture of a worn out spot

    What we want to do is reinforce the smallest hole, as that's where the clip resides when everything is put together. I used some metal pipe strap material that can be purchased in rolls at Lowes/Home Depot. Cut a piece a couple inches long so that it extends on either side of the hole. I cut out a notch in the strap to allow for the head of the plastic push pin to slide through.


    Use some hot glue on the back of the metal strapping, then secure it to the door panel so the hole in the strap and the notch are positioned directly over the small hole in the door panel. The hot glue will keep the metal strap in place while you apply a stronger adhesive and let it cure. I used some general construction adhesive made by Loctite, also available at Lowes/Home Depot. I think it was about $3 for a tube.

    Adhesive applied

    Completed panel

    I also am replacing all of the door panel push pins. I bought a package of 15 from Advanced Auto for $3.99. Dorman part #963-010. These should help the panel stay tight once installed.
  4. Finished installation of the rear speakers today. I put 5.25" coaxials back there which were originally in the front doors. I had to make some mounting plates so that I had something to mount the speakers to and then an assembly that I could mount to the back of the speaker grill. The plate was 5-5/8" wide x 5" tall. This gives enough room to mount the speaker in but doesn't make it too big. The cutout of the hole will obviously vary depending on the speaker size used and the manufacturer.

    I fabbed up a couple of mounting plates from 1/4" birch (cheapest 2'x2' section @ Lowes). I then painted them black so they wouldn't show through the speaker grills. There are holes already drilled for mounting the plate to the speaker grill, you just can't see them.


    Drilled holes for the speaker to mount to


    Mounted the speaker


    Then installed the assembly onto the speaker grill


    Plugged the speakers in, installed the grills, and finally have some music in the car again. I need to settle on a set of speakers for the front in the near future so I can get those on order and install them. I am having trouble finding a set of 6.5" components that are shallow enough to fit while still considering my tight budget. I don't need a fantastic system in here, but want something good. Looks like I'll either have to find some 5.25" components or a set of 6.5" coaxials to put in the door. I wanted the components so I could put the tweeter in the dash...just trying to convince myself if it's worth it or if I should just scrap the idea of the dash speakers and get coaxials for the doors.
  5. Last thing that I think I'll get done today, which is actually a carryover from the weekend. I failed to take pictures, so I apologize in advance.

    I pulled down the map light to try and figure out why it didn't work. Bulb was good and everything looked intact, and I was getting 12V power with they key on. The only thing left was the switch (it's a small plastic cylinder that you can push up and down when the map light is released.

    Once you remove the map light there are (3) plastic "heads" for lack of a better term. These are directly on the back side of where the push pin/switch is located. I cut off the 3 heads with a knife, then the cover was able to be removed. The switch assembly consisted of only 3 parts in the following order:

    - Cover
    - Spring
    - Push pin with a metal ring at the top

    It works as a plunger type assembly and transfers power from the incoming side over to the wiring that goes to the bulb itself. Think of the map light being installed in the car...When the map light is released the pin is forced down which pulls the metal ring down by force of the spring. The metal ring completes the circuit between the two sides and provides power to the bulb.

    After removing the cover I was able to use some 150 grit sandpaper to clean the copper terminals really well. I assembled everything back together, but the trick was getting the cover to stay on. Since I had cut the heads off there was nothing to hold the cover on. I got the cover lined up and in place, then used a bar clamp to hold the everything together. I took some Goop adhesive and put 3 small dabs right where the heads used to be. I let it sit overnight, then reinstalled it in the car today. Upon first try, the map light lit up when I released it! Success!

    When I bought this car nearly 12 months ago I showed my wife that map light, albeit non-functional at the time. She said "that would be absolutely tits if you could get that working."

  6. She said "that would be absolutely tits if you could get that working."
    Hahaha......made me laugh out loud at work here :rlaugh:............ great line ....
  7. hahaha i love that too. i really like the map light in the fox bodys when compared to the crap in some of these new cars
  8. Our 2011 Pilot has a very small blue light, pretty dim actually when you look at it. However, it provides enough backfill light to be able and see around the front dash/console area but since it's blue it's not obtrusive to the driver's eyes.

    I realize it has nothing to do with map lights, just a little side note.
  9. Nice job reinforcing that door panel. Loctite's good stuff.
  10. Assembling Armrests

    So I bought the armrest pads from LMR. While the finish quality of them is nice (and they smell like a brand new car!) feeling like you're able to get them seated tightly on the armrest isn't easy, or really even possible. I read about people saying you had to drill through a thin piece of sheet metal but the ones I got didn't seem to have that. Just vinyl with foam inside. So when you screw the pad to the armrest, all that the screw really has to bit into is the vinyl and foam; not really that strong.

    First up was to clean all the old foam off the armrest, and then remove the old chrome strip.


    I bought new strips from LMR. Fitment was fantastic, but Ford used a heavy duty/high powered stapler to hold the strips in place. We're stapling into solid plastic here, so it's not like just a thin piece of plastic or wood. I have one of those handheld Black and Decker staplers; it worked, but not that well.


    After I "stapled" the strip in place, I had to gently hit it with a hammer to get it in as far as I could. then I took a pair of pliers and squashed the staple down. I wanted to get it as flat as possible so the armrest pad would sit as flat as possible.



    With the new strips in place I could screw the armrest pads in place. These trapezoid looking shapes are where the screws screw into the armrest pad.


    Completed driver's armrest. Also with the switch and switch cover plate bezel installed.


  11. Front Speaker Installation

    I'm almost embarassed to admit it, but I bought some CHEAP component speakers for the front. I wanted to get tweeters in the dash and the easiest way seemed to buy a set of components. Of course, I didn't want to drop $100+ on components as, again, this is a very budget friendly build. I have a more extravangant system in the Subaru, I didn't need one here. It's amazing how much the car audio market has died in the past 10 years. 15 years ago when I was in high school, stereo shops were everywhere and the choice of high quality amps, speakers, subs, etc. was abundant. Not so anymore.

    So anyway, I bought a set. Came with a 6" woofer driver and a 2" tweeter. I fabricated some tweeter mounts out of my trusty 1/4" birch I had leftover from the rear speakers. Cut a hole in the middle for the tweeter, paint them black, and they're done. I used a fish tape again to pull the wiring for the tweeters through the black rubber grommet/hose in the door jamb. Don't like stray wires hanging out in there.



    Mounted in the dash


    I drilled 4 holes for mounting the driver. The speakers came with speed nuts which proved useful. I didn't have to rely on the sheet metal of the door to hold the screw which was great; the sheet metal is just a bit thicker than the thread pitch of the screw so the screw wouldn't catch right anyways.


    Driver mounted. Yes they're an awesome green color. No that's not why I bought them and no I don't particularly care for it. I would have prefered a gunmetal grey or black, but they're behind a grill and you can't see the green anyways.


    Completed door assembly, at least as far as innards and speakers are concerned.


    Next up is final assembly of the doors. Door panels, bezels, armrests, etc. Hopefully get that stuff posted over the weekend.
  12. Keep up the good work!
  13. Final Assembly of Doors

    This is really just buttoning everything up and seeing the finished product.

    Slapped the door panels back on. These are nice and tight since I used new panel retainers and secured some of the loose retainers.


    Installation of door handle bezel


    Speaker grill and armrest


    Black door lock knob pins...I hated the billet ones that were on there when I bought the car


    Mirror trim


    New door dome light switch. Old one was corroded at the connections. Now I have the dome light when I open the driver's door as well as the chime when the key goes in the ignition. Some think it's annoying but I've been waiting for it, just because it's original.


    Completed panel!

  14. I also noticed how much car audio has faded out over the past decade, but anyways great build.
  15. I wonder why that's the case. Was the car audio generation just the people who are now 25-35 years old and just don't care as much anymore?
  16. A few more pictures of the completed interior. I think the last thing I need is a new rearview mirror.




  17. looks great
  18. I personally think that a good sounding system in a car makes a world of difference.
  19. Beautiful man! IMO on the car audio thing, all of our cars from 10+ years ago came with a single din, or double din sized head unit, which was very easy to replace with an aftermarket system, and if you look at pretty much any new car, the head unit is integrated into the dash, not very easily changed to an aftermarket system. Also, most factory systems already have ipod ports and things like that, so there really isn't as much of a market for aftermarket stuff.
    krazedstang likes this.
  20. Internet. I can go online, find everything I need using a few searches, crossing a few website audio dealers and maybe craigslist. It's hard to compete with that, audio shops today are either called 'Best Buy' or 'pawn shop.'

    There's also all the resources needed online for anyone to make their own install from subs, to headunits, to speakers.