302 Engine Build

[dspur]

I am wanting to build 302 for the car, but unsure which route to go either stroker motor or keep crank stock. I was at machine shop today asking for ideas and the guy told me to keep crank stock and put alum heads and cam with 20 shot of nos and i can hit high 10's. He did give me the name or specs of the head or cam. i dont want to spend a fortune but i have some budget for the build. Was wanting to see what people here what would suggest. Thank you

 

[Noobz347]

Your machinist makes some sense but there are questions:

What year 302?
What will be the primary role of the finished car?
What's your budget?
Fuel injected?
What parts do you already have?
What do you already know that you need to buy?

I'm not a fan of having nitrous as the only power adder. I would rebuild the motor with the stock nodular crank with forged rods and pistons. I would select a cam that runs well N/A but is well suited for adding a super-charger later. Aluminum heads are a "must-have". There's lots to choose from and out-of-the-box, the differences are more about "when" power is greatest and less about "how much". I would stick with shorty headers, a good H-pipe with 3-way cats, and stainless cat-back. This should net 260+ without issue.

If it's a 5-speed, I'd swap the fly-wheel for forged steel and look into having the T5 re-worked by a transmission speed-shop. Auto - still needs to be re-worked.

Next, I'd drop the family fortune on brakes and suspension. This will cost between $2k and sleeping in your car.

Of course, this is all based on what "I" would want out the car. Tell us about what you want out of it.

It still blows my mind to see one of these cars making sub-300 RWHP with a kick-ass suspension. I take particular joy in watching them pass BMWs and Porches on a road course.

Them: Damned cheap-ass Pony car.


Oh... and welcome aboard!

 

[MustangIIMatt]

I would stick with shorty headers, a good H-pipe with 3-way cats, and stainless cat-back.

If it's a 5-speed, I'd swap the fly-wheel for forged steel and look into having the T5 re-worked by a transmission speed-shop. Auto - still needs to be re-worked.

If OP posted in the correct forum...

1. Nobody makes shorty headers for a II, it's either longtubes or manifolds, shortys would hit the crossmember.

2. Any H-pipe would have to be custom fabricated (no biggie, I'm running one).

3. Outside of California, cat wouldn't be necessary at all, and even there, only on 76-78 cars (OP didn't say what he had).

4. Any performance exhaust for a II will have to be custom fabricated by a muffler shop or performance shop, nobody sells kits.

5. IIs had 4-spds or automatics. On the 4-spd side, parts are hard to find, especially flywheels, on the automatic side a factory V8 car would've had a C4, already good to go durability-wise, but upgrades are nice.


Brakes an good suspension are actually cheap for IIs, Speedway Motors is your friend.

 

[dspur]

Your machinist makes some sense but there are questions:

What year 302?
What will be the primary role of the finished car?
What's your budget?
Fuel injected?
What parts do you already have?
What do you already know that you need to buy?

I'm not a fan of having nitrous as the only power adder. I would rebuild the motor with the stock nodular crank with forged rods and pistons. I would select a cam that runs well N/A but is well suited for adding a super-charger later. Aluminum heads are a "must-have". There's lots to choose from and out-of-the-box, the differences are more about "when" power is greatest and less about "how much". I would stick with shorty headers, a good H-pipe with 3-way cats, and stainless cat-back. This should net 260+ without issue.

If it's a 5-speed, I'd swap the fly-wheel for forged steel and look into having the T5 re-worked by a transmission speed-shop. Auto - still needs to be re-worked.

Next, I'd drop the family fortune on brakes and suspension. This will cost between $2k and sleeping in your car.

Of course, this is all based on what "I" would want out the car. Tell us about what you want out of it.

It still blows my mind to see one of these cars making sub-300 RWHP with a kick-ass suspension. I take particular joy in watching them pass BMWs and Porches on a road course.

Them: Damned cheap-ass Pony car.


Oh... and welcome aboard!

1. 87 302
2. I want something too pin you to seat driving around and also want to take it to track and do good times preferably 10 sec or under
3.budget depends on how much I want to work overtime
4. carb
5. i have block but my nephew cracked his so im gonna give him mine and get a different engine.
6 I know i practically need everything

I heard from guy at work that put 460 in a galaxy and it was impressive and seen that they will fit in 76 mustang with modifications and i'd want it too have auto trans

 

[Noobz347]

I think your goals are very lofty.

With engine, suspension, power adder, brakes, and trans, you're looking at over $10k of investment.

 

[LILCBRA]

If you're looking to throw a 460 in a II, you may want to study up on Gapp & Roush's version from back in the day. It is doable, but not necessarily for the faint at heart....

http://www.mustangandfords.com/feat...ed-that-infamous-ruggirello-roush-mustang-ii/

 

[jozsefsz]

Step 1) Sell your II
Step 2) Find a Fox or SN95 and start from there

If what really counts to you is speed, the II is the long (and expensive) way to get to your destination.
As a long-time owner of a II, you'll be fabricating next to everything, and nothing else will come cheap. It can be done, but you've really gotta love the car and enjoy the journey. If you just want to go fast for cheap, there are better options.

 

[MustangIIMatt]

Step 1) Sell your II
Step 2) Find a Fox or SN95 and start from there

If what really counts to you is speed, the II is the long (and expensive) way to get to your destination.
As a long-time owner of a II, you'll be fabricating next to everything, and nothing else will come cheap. It can be done, but you've really gotta love the car and enjoy the journey. If you just want to go fast for cheap, there are better options.

Troof, BUT...

If you start with a factory 302/C4, car, and you're willing to stay with the automatic, the costs become comparable once you're past the headers and torque converter. The issues then become hood clearance, difficulty of installation, and traction.