Cool, but can you include some dynos please (not Dynojets but proper load bearing dynos and SAE corrected running some form of graph smoothing).
Also as you stated EASILY then your list won't be exhaustive, can achieve 350rwhp SAE with only some of the mods listed and in many cases should significantly exceed 350rwhp if all mods are performed. If I misunderstood your statement then I apologise.
Cheers
EDIT:
Just a thought, but as the thread op is asking about making as much power as they can bolt on wise I assumed that they are not wanting to spend $$$$$$ and are also wanting to keep the car for sensible street use and maybe even a DD. Therefore bolt ons along the lines of removing the AC, power steering, alternator and such are not what I was considering. And technically they are not a bolt on as you are not bolting anything on but removing. That leaves induction/exhaust mods, tuning, pulleys, driveline mods and maybe a few others like electric water pump.
If these can genuinly achieve an everyday reliable and usable 350rwhp SAE corrected on a Mustang Dyno then I say woopie and will willingly eat my hat
You are making this easy if I have to use a Mustang Dyno. All I would have to do is bolt my Mustang back together and take it to a Mustang Dyno which is about 2.5 hours away. Mustang Dyno's are
VERY EASY to manipulate. All I would have to do is change a few settings and I could show a stock 2005 Mustang GT making 350 RWHP SAE corrected.
Using a Dyno-Jet, I wouldn't be able to do that. Dyno-Jet's are the industry standard BTW.
Read this thread.
http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=725532
All he has is a JLT CAI, Steeda UDP's,
Pypes Off-Road H-Pipe, Steeda Axleback exhaust and a custom dyno tune. That car is making 316 RWHP N/A SAE corrected.
I wonder what would happen if he was to add a Meziere electric water pump, CMCV deletes, and long tube headers to his car and have it retuned? How much power do you think he would have? My guess would have him at around 340 RWHP and the car wouldn't be any harder to drive than a stock GT.
Add a set of Comp Stg 3 cams to that and he would be around 360 RWHP.
Here is another car that made 347 RWHP N/A SAE corrected with Cats.
http://www.brenspeed.com/tech/compcams.html
A quick recap of the mods for 347 RWHP:
C&L Racer CAI,
BBK TB, Pulleys, Delete plates, Comp Stg 3 cams,
Kooks Long tube headers, Catted X-pipe, Mac Axleback, Brenspeed tune on a 5 speed maual car. Again another car that is very streetable. Add an electric water pump or remove the cats and it's there. Still doubting that 350 RWHP claim as being tough to get and not being streetable?
If a person was to do the following mods, they would get 350 RWHP at a minimum. It wouldn't matter where they are or what conditions, but in most cases, they would have the HP and could drive the car every day as every accessory is still there and working and on 91 - 94 Octane fuel. The only place where they might not have 350 RWHP is in higher altitude locations like Colorado. They would have to do every mod listed.
CAI( I can't believe I am saying this ) - JLT, C&L Racer or Steeda
Steeda Economy CMCV Deletes
FRPP 3V P&P heads
Comp Stg 3 Cams
Kooks or American Racing Headers Long Tube headers with or without cats
X or H pipe
Meziere Electric Water pump
Steeda UDP's
1 piece driveshaft
Good tune for 91 - 94 octane fuel
Optional items:
BBK 62mm Twin TB
Axleback exhaust of personal choice
Aluminum Flywheel
You would likely get 350 RWHP N/A without adding the heads, I listed them to ensure that the car would make the goal of 350 RWHP N/A in most locations and conditions. Pricing these parts out won't be cheap, a fair low estimate is $6000.00. If you were to not do the heads, you would be looking at around $3500.00 as a fair low estimate. Doing a good chunk of those mods would help later if adding F/I.
Adding every bolt on I mentioned as required or optional will bring you very close to 380 RWHP on 91 - 94 Octane fuel. Race fuel and tuned for it, could push the 400 RWHP mark. The 4.6 3V responds very well to mods.