351w cam help...

nmcgrawj

Advanced Member
Sep 28, 2003
3,651
3
68
Indianapolis, IN
Whats up guys? Just thinking about setups for my 351 in my 95.
Im pretty sure i will be running some TFS twisted wedge heads on a stock bottom end.

My questions are about the cam, intake, throttle body.

So cam choices i am thinking about are:

TFS stage 1
Lift (intake): .499 in. w/ 1.6 rockers
Lift (exhaust): .510 in. w/ 1.6 rockers
Duration: 221° @ 0.050 intake
Duration: 225° @ 0.050 exhaust
Lobe Separation: 112°

Steeda #19
Lift: .480 w/1.6 Rockers (.516 w/1.7 Rockers)
Duration: 220° @ 0.050 intake
Duration: 226° @ 0.050 exhaust
Lobe Separation: 115°
Recommended RPM Range: 2500 to 6000

Steeda #20 with 1.6rr
Lift: 544 with 1.7 rockers/ .512 with 1.6 rockers
Duration: 224 intake/230 exhaust @ 0.050 lift
Lobe separation: 112 degrees

Custom?
HOW MUCH $$$$$ ???:shrug:


On trickflows website, the maximum recommended lift is .540". The TFS stage 2 will cause piston to valve clearence with stock pistons which i will have to run for now. I want a good idle with good power. That Steeda #19 has the best LSA of 115 so it should idle like a champ right?

The intake I am pretty set on is the TFS 351 intake. But with the 75mm tb opening (1,500 to 6,500 rpm) or the 90mm tb opening(2,000 to 7,000 rpm)? And so which tb will match those openings well?


Sorry for being so long, any advice, suggestions, tips are greatly appreciated.
 
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What kind of pistons does the 351 have in it? Can they accept a 2.02 intake valve?

No one can suggest anything without knowing the intent of the car, vehicle weight, rear gear, tranmission type, and converter selection (if it's an automatic).

Joe
 
They have the stock pistons in it with the factory valve reliefs. The tech guy
at trickflow said the stage 2 cam SHOULD fit and if not i might have to retard
it by about 2* or so. Im leaning towards the Stage 1 or a custom. I would hate
to do it and find out that the cam is too big.

The vehicle will be a daily driver so it will have to idle. Its a stock weight
95 gt, 3.73 gear, 5-speed.
 
Does the block accept roller or solid lifters? Are you going to run a hydraulic cam in a solid block or vise versa? The firing order of a 351W is the same as a 5.0 HO (I think); 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8.

Assuming it's a roller block, you can get away with mid 230's duration with some sort of tuning device. This is just a shot in the dark, but if you went with a cam from Ed Curtis, he'd send you something like a 234/242 on a 112 or 114 LSA.

The springs on the TFS heads would have to be changed to accomodate any half decent Windsor cam. Coil bind isn't the only enemy, pressures are too. They probably don't have enough pressure at the seat to support a "bigger" cam.

I'd get the TFS manifold with the 90mm opening. The manifold is a box of air, and you're going to need a lot of it. I am using a 70mm TB on my little whimpy 'ol 302, so a 90mm piece is not out of the question for you. Velocity, in this case, is BS.

You need air. The air will make it into the manifold when your ready to make horsepower. Velocity doesn't have a damn thing to do with it.

I could take a few guesses at some of the better OTS cams, but you'd need to answer the questions above. Ed or any other custom cam grinder would be asking you those same exact questions.

Joe
 
The block is not a factory roller block, i had planned on converting it.

BUT, going with a custom cam, will he be able to grind me a solid cam that i can use without converting anything. The conversion is expensive.

Will i give up hp or driveability with a solid? I dont know much about the differences in performance and longevity in different cams except on they work. I know with solids that you cant get as aggressive as grind, atleast off the shelf i believe. But im not positive.

hope this shines some sort of light on my situation.

If i go with the 90mm opening, i need to run a 90 mm TB right? Who sells one that big?


Thanks for you help
 
Solid roller cams are for all out horsepower. Some have had success with running them on the street, others have not. They have a reputation for breaking at idle. The car would need to idle from anywhere between 900-1250 to keep the motor alive.

If you convert, you could use the retrofitted lifters. No one on this board that I know of has experience with them, and Comp recommends that you don't use them with injected motors. Why? I haven't a clue.

You're best off talking to a cam guy. They will be able to tell you what will work best on the street. My guess is a mechanical flat tappet, but I'm in no position to recommend anything. If you stay with anything mechanical, you're going to have to lash the valves.

For any throttle body bigger than 75mm, you'd have to go to Accufab and switch to a Fox body set up.

Joe
 
couldn't i buy that spider and hold down setup like we have on our cars and get the block machined to hold it down?

I have never heard of not being able to use the retrofit lifters with EFI. Like you said, doesn't make any sense.