76mm mass air problem!!!! and running rich!!!!!

[cobra_stang96]

Hey guys I've got a problem that hopefully one you guys could help me with. I had a c&l 76mm on my car calibrated for 19's. I have a trickflow stage 1 cam, trickflow street heat , and all the other little bolt ons like a throttle body and such. My problem is when I had the meter on there it took my car a while to warm up an it would tach kinda slow, and when you were driving it , the car would lag untill about 3500 then it would open up, it wouldnt lag bad but enough to feel. Well last night I put my stock meter on and my car tachs fine and runs a good bit better, my question is why would a 76mm not be better for a car than a 55. Any help would be greatly appreciated. And also I was wondering if you guys had a clue to why my car runs so rich wot. and taching it up. thanks alot.

 

[jrichker]

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.

See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html

IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.

Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/pc-7208-90-equus-digital-ford-code-reader-3145.aspx – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $30.

Clocking the MAF is useful when you have a cold air kit or some other modification to the air box or air inlet before the MAF.

Clocking is turning the MAF housing so that the sensor element is in a different position. It changes the airflow through the MAF to place the sensor pickup in the place where the airflow is the least disturbed.

 

[fast4cheap]

what year is your car, I had the same problem with a c&l 73 mm MAF meter, I pulled my meter straght from my car and put on the C&L and it run like crap, I removed the C&L put my Stock back on car ran fine. switched my meters again back to the C&L same problem, just out of curosity I swithed the electronics from a spare MAF sensor I had from a 89 and the car ran just lovely. For some reason that meter did not calibrate with the 93 sensor, I cant explain it but it did happen. I know the 93 sensor was good cause I put it back just to see.

 

[vristang]

Be sure that you sensor is marked 'F1ZF'

Measure the diameter of the sample tube as well.
Sometimes even C&L sends the wrong tube, or marks the sample tube with the wrong color.

I have the dimensions of several sample tubes on my website...


Let us know what you find
jason


Some will say that the problem is the C&L meter itself. The C&L does seem more sensitive to calibration accuracy, as compared to other meters...