92 Gt W/351w Advice Needed

[adumb]

only had a tiny bit of time today. i got my timing light ready and tried to start it. seems like it likes to pushes of the pedal to enrich the carb like you said. once it started i ran to the front of the car to get the timing set. it was at 20 degrees ,now it is at 10. then shut it off because there still isnt any coolant in it.

reason for the no coolant is i tried to fill it back up and it started leaking between the plate and pump again. the plate and pump surfaces are clean but still are old and dont seem very even. i am going to get a new pump and put some coolant in before i do anymore starting of the car.

the choke isnt hooked up yet. it is on my long list of things to do.

do you guys know if there is a certain temp where it is to cold to use black rtv? it is getting cold out and the package is all mangled so i cant read all of the details. i am talking about setting it up. i know once it is on it will work in any temp.

 

[adumb]

today I drained all the old fuel out of the carb and blew out all the lines, dropped the tank and I will drain that and put fresh gas in the car. it may or may not make a difference but the gas was super cold and looked orange. still smelled like gas, I heard it can have a varnish smell after awhile. either way it couldn't be helping anything.

I have a question about ground wires. Since I removed my main harness and engine harness I no longer have the ground that goes to the firewall. should I have some sort of ground that goes from the block to the firewall?

only reason I ask is am going to hook up my temp and oil pressure gauges this weekend and I read if you don't have that wire in the harness grounded your gauges may not work. I no longer have that engine harness so I don't have the ground to the firewall. I am going to hook into the temp and oil pressure gauge wires near the brake booster where I disconnected the two connectors.

 

[a91what]

You can just add a ground strap from the block to the firewall. Make sure the ground for the gauges is good and you won't have any problems.

 

[90sickfox]

I've run ground wire to the sway bar mounting bolt on the frame below the battery and bolted to the motor block below the PS pump.

 

[a91what]

I always add two one from the front of the head near the alt, and one at the back to the firewall. You can buy a braided strap from the auto parts store for the fire wall ground. Not sure it will make a big difference in your case, I'm fuel injected. If it all works as described your good to go

 

[adumb]

You can just add a ground strap from the block to the firewall. Make sure the ground for the gauges is good and you won't have any problems.

i think that might be the problem. i am pretty certain the ground for the gauges is in that injector harness that i removed. i might have to get a wiring diagram and find out which wire out of the connector it is.

i will add a ground to firewall. where on the block can i bolt it? not many open holes on the back of the block.

 

[adumb]

all the bad gas is gone.

took the water pump off again and i can see why it keeps leaking. the plate has some corrosion on it but has a nice open channel which is exactly where is drips from. went to the parts store and bought a new one.

 

[TOOLOW91]

i think that might be the problem. i am pretty certain the ground for the gauges is in that injector harness that i removed. i might have to get a wiring diagram and find out which wire out of the connector it is.

i will add a ground to firewall. where on the block can i bolt it? not many open holes on the back of the block.

Factory gauges are grounded through the interior harness not the injector harness that you removed . It is still good to add that ground strap back in though . Here's the wiring diagram for the dash plugs .this will make it easy to tap into the wires you need to make the stock oil pressure and temp work if that's what you want . The tach you made need an adapter to make that work with the dist you run now I believe .

Sent from my iPhone using my fingers while my auto correct makes me seem illiterate

 

[adumb]

Awesome chart. I am pretty sure for my tach I just need to run the tach feed wire to the negative side of my coil. Are those the two connectors that plug into the back of the gauge cluster. I have had it out before but I never really paid attention to what the connections looks like.

 

[madspeed]

correct on the tach wiring

 

[TOOLOW91]

Awesome chart. I am pretty sure for my tach I just need to run the tach feed wire to the negative side of my coil. Are those the two connectors that plug into the back of the gauge cluster. I have had it out before but I never really paid attention to what the connections looks like.

Correct that they are figure it would aid in running stock temp and oil pressure if that was what you wanted to do


Sent from my iPhone using my fingers while my auto correct makes me seem illiterate

 

[adumb]

do you guys know which way or where the two bundles of wires that plug into the gauge cluster run from and too. really only need to splice into them somewhere and there is no point in pulling the gauge cluster i think because that wont help me. do they run under the dash somewhere at a point that i can see them? what a out the bundle of wires that come out near the brake booster firewall? is that the same set of wires?

 

[TOOLOW91]

They come out of those plugs on the driver side fire wall under the hood that the original harness plugs into .


Sent from my iPhone using my fingers while my auto correct makes me seem illiterate

 

[adumb]

i think i figured out why i can't find those two plugs. I have another 89 mustang that is pretty much stock that i took a look at. clear as day the black and grey plugs are there.

I then went back to my 92gt and all i can see is this one red plug. i also included some pics of the harness that i sold of the car and you can see the single red plug on that one as well. So it looks like i need to find a specific wiring diagram for an engine harness that only has the single red plug.

pics won't load on the computer so i am going to try them from phone.

 

[adumb]

here are the pics

 

[adumb]

more pics to help figure this crap out

 

[adumb]

here is my stupid idea after a little research. If you ground the wire that the temp sensor goes to the gauge should be pegged. it is a way of testing to see if the gauge works. You only need to do it for a quick second because you don't want to burnout the gauge. if there are only 8 possible wires it could be on that red connector then I am just going to put a jumper wire on it and ground each one and hopefully one of those wires pegs the temp gauge and another will peg the oil pressure gauge.

I still don't know how I am going to figure out which wire is the tach. the only silly idea I can think of is after I know that 2 of the 8 are taken with the other gauges I could run a long wire from the negative side of the coil and just touch each wire until the tach jumps.

all of the wiring diagrams I have seen are all the two connector wiring harness not the single red connector one.

I am sure none of this seems very professional but could I possible hurt anything permanently trying to figure out what wires do what this way?

 

[adumb]

major fail today. i tried to do my idea and ground one of the wires and it sparked. thought i heard something click somewhere else but not sure. I might just take a little break and save up some money so i can just buy a water temp and oil pressure gauge. might be better than spending a bunch of hours trying to get the crappy stock ones to work.

 

[adumb]

the gauge thing seems to be alot more confusing since i dont have the double plug setup.

i ended up going to advance autoparts amd getting a neat lottle triple gauge pod thing they had. it was only 39 bucks plus i had a 20 dollar coupon off a 40 dollar purchase.

i ended up getting rid of the volt meter and putting my air fuel gauge in the middle. for a little over twenty bucks including the ground strap i bought it is a pretty good deal.

the triple setup sits nicely under the radio. with a little work it should look alright

the setup even comes with all the different settings to connect the oil pressure and water temp.

i had no idea how expensive gauges would be. most of the autometer ones were like 80 bucks and went up alot from there. makes me envy the people who have a ton of gauges all over the interior. they probably have more money in gauges than i do in my whole car..

i am going to make a better effort to take more pics in the future

 

[adumb]

here is my newest problem. my vacuum readings seem to be bouncing around alot. I have checked and an 11 vacuum reading is pretty much inline with what my cam should have. But I don't think it should be jumping around like this. I sprayed some starter fluid around the base of the carb and around the base of the lower intake and I didn't notice any change. I am thinking with such a simple setup the only other thing it could be is the lower intake gasket maybe leaking into the lifter valley which i can't test for without taking the intake off.

my timing is at 14 btdc
i did adjust the idle mixture screws and that didn't help
i am also getting water out of the tail pipes which i think is also an indication of a vacuum leak.
oil and antifreeze are both clean and haven't met each other yet which i am happy about

i did get my gauges setup enough to start the car. i have about 50 on the oil pressure and my temp stays right around 190 just idling in the garage for along time while i mess with the carb.


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