So let me start off by giving a little background on the issue and what I've done so far. I bought a trick flow 11R top end kit and a Holley systemax II intake, 24lb injectors, pro-m 75mm mass air calibrated for 24lb injectors. Installed everything fired the car up and it ran horrible, had 2 bad bran new injectors. Got a whole new set checked to make sure all of them worked and they do. Put them in fired the car back up, car idles great but has no power at all. The car is stock bottom end has an aod 2800 stall with 4.10 gears and it won't even do a burn out. Sometimes when you try to stall it up to do a burnout it will pop in the intake. Also does that when you are slowing down. I'm going to be putting an AFR gauge in this week. But so far I put new cap and rotor, new plugs, new wires, new tps, new iac, new act, cts and ignition coil. I swapped the factory mass air In just to see if that would change anything and still the same. No power at all. But the car will idle and rev up perfect. It's just once it goes under a load then it will pop in the intake. Any help and suggestions would be great.
Engine 93 lx top end kit install now has no power.
- Thread starter anorth93
- Start date
-
Sponsors (?)
Yes set at 10 degrees, tried 12 14 with spout out. Then tried locking the timing out at 28 and 30. No change at all
Yes set at 10 degrees, tried 12 14 with spout out. Then tried locking the timing out at 28 and 30. No change at all
Attachments
Ya vacuum is all set right, did a vacuum leak test there isn't any leaks. All the plug wires are correct. I thought maybe the valves so I redid them, and the seemed fine to me, no valve train noise at all. And I didn't want to over do them so if anything I figured they would be a tad loose.
Ya all that is corr
No not really not more then normal, car ran perfectly before the top end kit. I pulled the codes I can't remember what they are, I'll pull them again tomorrow. But I know the codes weren't anything pertaining to making it run like it is. One was the egr cuz it's deleted, other was codes for the smog actuators because they are deleted also. I'm going to weld the ade gauge in tomorrow when I get home and I'll let you guys know what the afr is. Going to put a vacuum gauge on it , and try the cylinder balance test
Crazy this is the car idles great. Trick flow stage 1 cam, no hunting or surging idle. And revs clean. It's just under load. Bad when the car won't even spin the tires. When it was stock with just the 4.10 gears it would blister them
I lined everything up dot to dot and made sure it was at tdc when I stabbed it. But I can always pull it and restab it to make sure
Have you tried swapping back to the first set of injectors minus the 2 bad ones? Upgraded fuel pump/system? Checked fuel pressure?
Make sure you are at TDC by feeling the piston come up on the compression stroke. The piston will have some dwell time at TDC which can be a few degrees of the crank when turning. I tend to watch the timing marks on the balancer when the piston first stops moving upward and then when it start to fall down. Split that difference and then stab the distributor.
I sent the first set back for the warranty on the new ones. I tried putting the 19lb mass air meter in and no change. It has a 190lph fuel pump. Fuel pressure is at like 36ish at idle and 39-40 with vac off.
So what would be the easiest way to check if it's at tdc with the motor together. I know to put my finger over the hole to make sure it's on the compression stroke, but how do I make sure the piston is at top dead center without using a bore scope camera. I'm going to put the AFR gauge in tonight and fresh plugs and then I will re-stab the distributor. I tried 10° 12, 14, 16 and then locked the timing out at 28 and 30 still no change
Similar threads
