After A Long Retirement...

Discussion in 'Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech' started by chedched, Apr 25, 2014.

  1. What do I need to do to the wife's car? It's been away for 6 years and up on dollies. I'm trying to think of the things that need to be done to make sure I can drive it without issue. I've already aired up the tires and put the battery on the tender. Do I need to drop the tank? I've got a new filter to put on. I was going to also change the oil and then take it to work. I work at a dealership so I plan to flush coolant on a hoist. Anything else I'm missing?

    If it matters, it's an 88GT 5.0L with an AOD.

  2. Also, should I try and spin the crank before trying to start it? If yes, which direction if it matters? My assumption is to rotate clockwise, but I've never attempted it and don't want to break anything...
  3. if you pulled the plugs it would do the same as hand turning id think...

    maybe a little lube like mm oil on top just incase to help the rings out?

    mine's sat a couple years at a time and I just fire it up 225k never an issue...
  4. Change the oil and coolant. Drain the gas and replace with fresh as well. Pull the plugs and put a few drops of oil in each cylinder. Spin crank by hand. Direction doesn't matter. If it spins freely, floor the gas pedal and crank the key. Flooring the pedal will tell the ecu to keep the injectors from pulsing. Crank in a few short bursts and this will oil the system.
    89oem, smkshw and tannerc91gt like this.
  5. Has it been full of fluids while in storage, or dry?
  6. It has been full of fluids.
  7. The minimum I would do is change oil/filter and coolant. If you can drain out old gas and put in new that would be nice. If you can't, definitely pour some kind of fuel injector cleaner or Lucas gas treatment in the tank. These products (and products like Sta-bil) can't restore old gas, they are meant to be used in fresh gas. Hopefully there wasn't too much ethanol in Wisconsin gas in 1998. Ethanol absorbs moisture (H2O) from the air and wreaks havoc on fuel systems. (I'm an avid motorcyclist. Soooo many motorcycles are parked in the fall and won't start in the spring because of fuel issues when people didn't put Sta-bil-or something similar- in the tank before storage. Anyway...) Also, you might experience various oil/transmission fluid leaks due to gaskets and seals drying up from lack of use over the years. Popular spots for leaks after long periods of storage are from the valve covers, oil pan, rear main seal, and (especially on an AOD) the rear seal (where the driveshaft goes into tranny). If you do a tune-up be aware the vacuum lines and plastic in the engine compartment is probably SUPER brittle! I tuned up my '92 as soon as I bought it after it had been parked for years, and I very quickly learned to be gentle when handling vacuum lines and such. They can just snap at the slightest touch when they get old. Good luck and keep us posted. Lots of good people here.
  8. My 93 sat for 2 years and its been quite a bit of work. Sounds like you're doing it right though.

    On the engine oil, I would change it and then run it a few hundred miles and change it again. Probably wouldn't hurt to do all the fluids and tune-up stuff.
  9. Does anyone have any specific oil they have used in the past which may help to swell the seals a bit? I've heard the "high mileage" oil does just that but I'm wondering if anyone has first hand experience with it...
  10. Marvelous Mystery Oil ftw
  11. im using kendall 5-30 blend seems to do the job...... 225k miles
  12. Pulled the plugs. The motor turned with very little effort. I found the valve cover gaskets seeping a little.

    I dropped the tank, most of the way anyway. There is a clip that I couldn't figure out how to remove. It's not the duck bill style but the other one. Anyone know which one I'm talking about? How do I remove that line from the tank? Also, there is a breather valve in the tank, does that just pull out? The hose doesn't want to come off of it so I figured it would be easier to pull the whole valve out.

    The gas inside the tank looks pretty good. There isn't anything clumpy or dirty looking. I guess dropping the tank was a bit overkill but I'm glad I did. I may throw a feul pump in while it's out, any suggestions?
  13. If you plan on modding this thing and are throwing in a new pump while apart, get a 255 lph pump
  14. This is a pic of the clip and the breather.
  15. Nice ride.

    I did a 185 or 195(?) lph fuel pump and its worked good. I'm N\A though. I would run a couple tanks of lucas fuel cleaner for the injectors, and a new fuel filter. Should be good.

    My experience has been that the cooling system usually has the most issues.

    Edit: Also, +1 for Marvel Mystery Oil.
    #17 jAEded, Apr 29, 2014
    Last edited: Apr 29, 2014
  16. I got the tank completely out tonight. Looking into the tank it looks spotless. I dumped all the fuel out and everything seems to look pretty good in there. I'm going to leave the stock fuel pump there for now as I could use the $100+ to fix other issues that WILL come up.

    I removed the radiator cap and looked in. I expected to see some pretty nasty stuff. Wrong! The coolant is still as green as the new stuff in a bottle. I'm not going to chance it as coolant becomes corrosive after so long. After she comes roaring back to life I will take her to work and do a complete coolant flush while it is on a hoist.

    I think the wife and I agree, the tint is the first thing to go. Her windows were tinted when we were in high school and they have since turned purple. I will go through the wonderful process of removing that stuff and will have it replaced soon after. After that the sub frame connectors and torque box reinforcements are going in.

    I love working at a dealership, so many able bodied people with the right equipment...
  17. Looks good! Keep us updated.
  18. Love seeing purple window tint ;)