Aftermarket Wheels Make my Brakes Squeak!

[FasterIsBetter]

I have placed some Polished Aluminum American Racing wheels on my car around 35,000 miles. I ran them for one year without any problems. The next year I bought new tires and put the rims on. The front brakes started squeaking almost immediately. I tried new pads, (semi-metallic and full ceramic), tried spinning the tires around and reversing the rims from passenger to driver side, had the rotors resurfaced, and added a boat load of CRC Brake quiet to the pads, the calipers, the rotor, and a bunch of anti-seize to the retaining pin. The tires were also balanced again and an alignment was performed. The damn things still squeak!!! ( Mainly the passenger side). Has anyone else had a similar problem??? If so, did you get it to stop and HOW??? Thanks in advance for your help!

So will getting new rotors curb the situation? The reason I am asking and saying that the Aftermarket wheels are causing this, is because when I put the stock Cobra wheels back on... The squeaking stops!

 

[96SVTpilot]

Who put the wheels back on the car, you or the tire shop? It sounds like somebody overdid it with an impact gun, possibly warping your rotors. Having any front end vibration?

 

[Uncle Meat]

Dude... your sig is kind of long don't you think?

U.M.

 

[Cmac]

I have placed some Polished Aluminum American Racing wheels on my car around 35,000 miles. I ran them for one year without any problems. The next year I bought new tires and put the rims on. The front brakes started squeaking almost immediately. I tried new pads, (semi-metallic and full ceramic), tried spinning the tires around and reversing the rims from passenger to driver side, had the rotors resurfaced, and added a boat load of CRC Brake quiet to the pads, the calipers, the rotor, and a bunch of anti-seize to the retaining pin. The tires were also balanced again and an alignment was performed. The damn things still squeak!!! ( Mainly the passenger side). Has anyone else had a similar problem??? If so, did you get it to stop and HOW??? Thanks in advance for your help!



Bore 3.57 (.020 over)
Stroke 3.54 (Stock)
Compression 8.8:1 (18cc Dish - 51cc chamber)
Intake valve 37.0mm
exhaust valve 30.0 mm
crank end play .010
con rod play .011
cam intake lift .452
cam exhaust lift .452
cam duration @.50 - 225
intake and exhaust fully ported and polished
intake gasket matched at t-body & head

Pistons - Manley, (18cc dish) forged hidh silicone
Rings - Manley, moly
Connecting rods - Manley, forged H-beam (stock length)
Engine bearings - sealed power (std)
Engine fully balanced
Camshafts - Sean Hyland, Blower profile
Valvesprings - Comp cams, high lift springs
Valvespring retainers- Comp cams (spring spec)
Timing Adjuster - Steeda, underdrive fit
Main studs - ARP, Race duty
Head Studs - ARP, Race duty
Engine Gaskets - Felpro, (street/strip)
Throttle body - BBK, 62 mm twin
Oil pump - Ford Racing, High Volume (45psi)
Exhaust - BBK 1-5/8' full length ceramic coated headers, BBK "X" pipe
Mufflers - Dynamax, Race bullets (2-1/2")
Cold Air BBK, (chrome with K&N filter)
Struts - KYB, GR2's
Shocks - KYB, GR2's
Control arms - Mac upper and lower w/poly bushings
Springs - Eibach, drag launch kit (w/air bag)
Rear panhard rod kit - Maximum Motorsports
Rear End gears - Ford Racing, 3.73:1 ratio
Front rims - American Racing w/BFG G-Force 255/40ZR17 KDW new tread.
Rear rims - American Racing 17 X 11 w/BFG G-Force 285/40ZR17 new tread.

man....I got the same damn problem