Another 5 lug question, Rear Disc E-Brake problem,

[Starscream88]

Ok,

I just finished installing the FMS Center e-brake cable with the threads,

thought that was going to take up the slack in my e-brake and the actual brakes themselfs,

Now Ive noticed because of the amount of brake dust that my Rear Drivers Caliper has the most dust, Like MAD dust,
And the drivers side front caliper is second worst for dust,

The passenger side calipers front and rear have almost no dust and the passenger front has barley even started to score the rotor,

Could this be as simple as Air in the system? (even though I have bled these brakes so much the pedal feels like your stepping on concrete)
However the second you start the engone the pedal feels softer, (Im guessing because I used a V6 Brake Booster?)

Now the E-brake problem,
After installing it I tensioned the cable with the bolts on the thread, cable felt tighter but not good enough,
So i kept going, Even with the cable almost out if threads the rear wheels still didnt hole the car as well as I wanted them to,
So I left it,
Started driving this mornign mand noticed the rear felt like it was dragging a bit and sure enough Id obviously done the cable up too tight as the drivers rear wheel was smoking, (peoples faces lol)
Again drivers rear does all the braking,

So

Whats up?
Can anyone offer some advise?
I backed off the adj cable this morning and the car rolls now and no smoke lol, But the E-Brake is CRAP as per usual, and my pedal is softer than Id like,
I dunno if its a bleed issue, Im thinking mabey my rear calipers need replacing with new ones? (got them froma junkyard)
And the piston was VERY hard to twist back for the drivers rear (the one thats doing all the braking it seems) and easier for the passenger rear to twist back

I know its long but Id like to have nice brakes Dont get me wrong they STOP when I need them too, Much better than the Fox stuff, I dunno mabey I was over expecting???

 

[Starscream88]

N E 1?

 

[ratrapp]

you could have bad calipers or hoses.also the caliper slides could be locked up also.

 

[MumftsGT]

My Mark VII rear e-brake doesn't hold as well as I would like either, but am not having issues with my 99+ GT Twin Piston PBR new car take-offs. Every once in a while I can hear a brake making contact while I am driving. It's almost as though it doesn't release properly. I guess I need to troubleshoot and narrow things down. My Mark VII calipers are remanufactured units. I am also using an SVO MC and stock '85 brake booster, gutted PV and Summit adjustable PV.

 

[Matt90GT]

Ok,


However the second you start the engone the pedal feels softer, (Im guessing because I used a V6 Brake Booster?)

When the motor is not running, you have no vacuum. The booster needs vaccum to work, thus no assist.

Now the E-brake problem,
After installing it I tensioned the cable with the bolts on the thread, cable felt tighter but not good enough,
So i kept going, Even with the cable almost out if threads the rear wheels still didnt hole the car as well as I wanted them to,
So I left it,
Started driving this mornign mand noticed the rear felt like it was dragging a bit and sure enough Id obviously done the cable up too tight as the drivers rear wheel was smoking, (peoples faces lol)
Again drivers rear does all the braking,

So

Whats up?
Can anyone offer some advise?
I backed off the adj cable this morning and the car rolls now and no smoke lol, But the E-Brake is CRAP as per usual, and my pedal is softer than Id like,
I dunno if its a bleed issue, Im thinking mabey my rear calipers need replacing with new ones? (got them froma junkyard)
And the piston was VERY hard to twist back for the drivers rear (the one thats doing all the braking it seems) and easier for the passenger rear to twist back

I know its long but Id like to have nice brakes Dont get me wrong they STOP when I need them too, Much better than the Fox stuff, I dunno mabey I was over expecting???

Well you have one side of the car working with the brakes, the otherside is not. Thus start troubleshooting. Take the calipers off the mounts and have someone push the pedal once or twice. Make sure sure the pistons are moving.

Are these new or reman/used calipers? If used, how did you push the rear piston back in? Did you use the tool to spin the piston so you did not damage the self adjusting clutches in the caliper?

How do you have the MC setup? What conversion did you use? How about PV, what has been done there?

What year of car is this and what ebrake cables do you have? What brakes have you installed? what brake hoses have you used? Is the car a v8 or 4cyl car to start with?

 

[Starscream88]

Are these new or reman/used calipers? If used, how did you push the rear piston back in? Did you use the tool to spin the piston so you did not damage the self adjusting clutches in the caliper?

How do you have the MC setup? What conversion did you use? How about PV, what has been done there?

What year of car is this and what ebrake cables do you have? What brakes have you installed? what brake hoses have you used? Is the car a v8 or 4cyl car to start with?

Ok these are Junk Yard Takeoff's
Yes I span the rear pistons one was harder to do than the other but thats the one that seems to be doing the most braking,
for MC I have a 96 V6 MC and Booster,
PV I gutted mine, Used FMS plug and Wilwood Adj Valve,
E-brake cables are all FMS as listed in Matts website for 87-92 cars,
I also cut/welded/modified my e-brake as needed,
and my cars always been a V8

 

[Matt90GT]

Ok these are Junk Yard Takeoff's

[/b]
Check that all pistons are moving when you give them pressure. You will need a helper.

Yes I span the rear pistons one was harder to do than the other but thats the one that seems to be doing the most braking,

Seems like the other one is not self adjusting. The clutches are probably broken in the piston which is why it was so easy to turn in. That would be my first concern.

for MC I have a 96 V6 MC and Booster,

Okay, so you had a 3 port MC. What did you do with the 3rd brake line?

PV I gutted mine, Used FMS plug and Wilwood Adj Valve,

How did you gut it? Did you remove the PV or the shuttle valve from the combination block???

E-brake cables are all FMS as listed in Matts website for 87-92 cars,
I also cut/welded/modified my e-brake as needed,
and my cars always been a V8

All seems good there. Check on that caliper if you have more issues, be sure to answer back the questions I posted for you.

FYI, I am matt.

 

[Starscream88]

Lol oh Hey Matt,
Didnt know you posted here

My names Jamie and I ordered some stuff from you a few weeks back which I obviously got and used,
I got the 2-3 Conversion from you and the rear Fox to SN95 softline adapters
So thats what I did with 3'rd port,

Ill have to take off the rear calipers then and see if there moving with the pedal pressed,
Im sure they both are, as theres marks on the new rotors,
As Ive mentioned I know the drivers rear works as thats the one with the most dust,
and I have bled the rears 3 times until the pedal barley moves,


As for my PV question from you I did exactly whats listed on your site,
I bought the FMS plug and took out the internals as listed
Then I have a Wilwood Adj prop valve for the rear Bias
I dunno if I have set that right, Ive played around with it a few times and didnt really notice much difference,

Is there any setting its more suited to? like how many turns have people found affective?

and also its the E-brake i feel giving me the most problem

 

[Matt90GT]

and also its the E-brake i feel giving me the most problem

Again, it is because you most likely have damaged the self adjusting clutches on the rear caliper. Take it off an inspect it. Get a Haynes or Chiltons Manual to help you do this. You may need to get one for a 94+ car so you have the rebuild info on those rear calipers.