anyone in Orlando FL area..power window trouble what to do? help!
- Thread starter Caps94ZODG
- Start date
this suckes man my Z28 did this and now her 98 stang has this problem..the power window is off the track....anyone in the Orlando area that can help?? never taken the panel off and dont know what to look for..-
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marvinmycat
Founding Member
To get the panel off, pop the door pull off and remove the window switches.
Pop the door handle cup off as well.
Unscrew the two retaining screws where the door pull/window switches were.
Pry the plastic door rivet out of the panel from in front of the speaker grill.
Lift the panel up and off the door.
Disengage any wiring harness connectors.
Peel back the plastic to get at the inner door parts.
In order to remove the glass and some components, you'll have to drill out rivets in some cases. Also, if you remove the window motor, be careful of the counter balance spring when it unwinds!!!
The most probable cause of this is that the harware holding the window in the runners is worn. Toward the front is a runner that retains the glass and the bracket is held in place by a screw and washer - that may be part of the problem. The same holds true for the rear runner as well.
I've looked around in those tight quarters before and I wouldn't want to mess around in there. But good luck if you do!
Pop the door handle cup off as well.
Unscrew the two retaining screws where the door pull/window switches were.
Pry the plastic door rivet out of the panel from in front of the speaker grill.
Lift the panel up and off the door.
Disengage any wiring harness connectors.
Peel back the plastic to get at the inner door parts.
In order to remove the glass and some components, you'll have to drill out rivets in some cases. Also, if you remove the window motor, be careful of the counter balance spring when it unwinds!!!
The most probable cause of this is that the harware holding the window in the runners is worn. Toward the front is a runner that retains the glass and the bracket is held in place by a screw and washer - that may be part of the problem. The same holds true for the rear runner as well.
I've looked around in those tight quarters before and I wouldn't want to mess around in there. But good luck if you do!
75player
New Member
I just had this happen on my wifes Isuzu Rodeo.... The cable jumped off the gears. Had to replace the whole runner assembly. If the cable has jumped and there are ANY kinks in it, I wouldn't even bother trying to rewrap it, once it kinks, you're screwed. My dumb ass spent three days trying to rewrap it and ended having to just buy the new assembly.
power window track repair
I didn't quite know where to post this one, but figured that someone else could use this useful info if they needed it. Especially, when it was unavaible to me.
This is for people who want to avoid going to a mechanic and paying 300 bucks for a replacement.
If you're a dumbass like me
who shuts the door by using the corner of the window, you'll probably end up taking your window off the track some time in the future. If by any chance you try to "correct" the problem by using the power switches and realize you have an even bigger problem (ie. a loud crunch which = a tweaked window frame). Here's a MacGyver-like solution to reconnect the window with the track (assuming that the window is still glued still).
First take off your door bezles (the window/lock switches and the door handle). Then, take off the main docorative section of the door's frame. This can be viewed by obtaining the Hayes book (but be aware that the detailed version of the track itself is not listed!).
Once you have it stripped to where you can work on the actual track. For those unaware, the track has two points of connection. These points usually have a rubber washer that fits on to swiveling ball. The rear (or left point) is the easiest of the two. However, the front is what you have to be worried about.
Okay, when messing with the right side rubber washer (donut-thingy, whatever you wanna call it), move it with your finger to the center where you can visibly see it. Find a flatnosed screw driver that is about the same size (or actually a little bit larger) than the hole. Use blow torch (bbq fire or whatever) to get the screw driver hot enough and burn the rubber to enlarge the hole. After it's cooled, see if it'll fit into place.
It's faster this way than trying to untweak the track.
For those who want to know, this worked on a '01 V6.
I didn't quite know where to post this one, but figured that someone else could use this useful info if they needed it. Especially, when it was unavaible to me.
This is for people who want to avoid going to a mechanic and paying 300 bucks for a replacement.If you're a dumbass like me
First take off your door bezles (the window/lock switches and the door handle). Then, take off the main docorative section of the door's frame. This can be viewed by obtaining the Hayes book (but be aware that the detailed version of the track itself is not listed!).
Once you have it stripped to where you can work on the actual track. For those unaware, the track has two points of connection. These points usually have a rubber washer that fits on to swiveling ball. The rear (or left point) is the easiest of the two. However, the front is what you have to be worried about.
Okay, when messing with the right side rubber washer (donut-thingy, whatever you wanna call it), move it with your finger to the center where you can visibly see it. Find a flatnosed screw driver that is about the same size (or actually a little bit larger) than the hole. Use blow torch (bbq fire or whatever) to get the screw driver hot enough and burn the rubber to enlarge the hole. After it's cooled, see if it'll fit into place.
It's faster this way than trying to untweak the track.
For those who want to know, this worked on a '01 V6.
zincyellow03
New Member
BlackwidowV6
New Member
- Aug 15, 2005
- 12
- 0
- 0
I just had that Happen... $270 for the fix, Mechanic said my Pops trying to fix it probably ****ed it up more, so i'm taking everything strait to my Mechanic--but then again he doesn't charge labor for me
I recommend Orlando Power Window Repair 407-415-5401. They are a free mobile service. They came to my house on a Saturday afternoon and where way cheaper than any shop I called. I tried to do this job myself and got about 1/2 the way done before I realized I could not do it myself. They cost as much to do the complete job for what it cost me in parts.
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