Anyone with sound dampener install notes?

Discussion in 'Mustang Sound & Shine All' started by di0de, Dec 6, 2003.

  1. I'm going for either the B-Quiet for FatMat dampener and wonder if I should attempt to install this myself or let someone else handle it? I'm completely confident removing the door interior parts, and can probably figure out the rest, but have no clue how easy the actual application is. I'm thinking of just doing my doors, rear seat arm rests, and maybe some on the trunk..
  2. I installed eDead pretty much everywhere but the roof so far.

    They make different versions for different parts of the car. Like with the eDead V.2, they make it from use in doors, the floor, and trunk... and than ussually have you put a layer of V.1 over top of it for UV/Heat protection.

    If you let the stuff sit on in the sun, or use a heat gun, it will be a little eaiser to work with. I'd also reccomend getting a small roller for the spots the are hard to get down. Also, cleans the hell out of the surface your appling it to or else you may have problems getting it to stick. I used 3M Super 77 spray cleaner to clean all the stuff off.

    Other than that just remember its VERY time consuming. It took me a good 4 or 5 days to complete my car, but I did pretty much apply it everywhere. It's worth it though :nice:

  3. eDead V.2 isn't available anymore, but they're coming out with a new liquid deadener to replace it.
  4. Well I must have gotten mine just in time. It was only a little while back when I installed it.
  5. It's pretty time consiming if you do it yourself. Like Ruffrider said, get a wallpaper roller ~1.5" or so, and a heat gun and it really saves a lot of time. Also, measure the area first before you cut the deadener, and work with somewhat small strips. Cleaning the area is a VERY important step, and if you don't do it properly, you will notice it to start to peal away from the door skin later on. It's not too bad if you do it yourself. It took me about 6 hrs. per door to do two layers. I could have done it a lot quicker, but I wanted to get it done right. I also removed the wires to run the deadener under them. I can get some pics if you want. I'd recommend doing it yourself, though. It's worth it in the end if you know you did it right.
  6. Thanks much for the info. So it's okay to cut this stuff into fairly small pieces to work it into the shapes of the car? I imagine that'd work out fine.. dunno if I could do it and have it adhere properly with large pieces though...
  7. If you take your time, you'll do fine. If you heat it up pretty good to get it tacky, and use the roller to really press it onto the panel, and into the crevices, it adhere's really well. It saves some time to take out the christmas tree clips that hold the wiring onto the door and run the deadener under it, and make a hole through it to clip the wire back on. It looks cleaner and saves time trying to cut the sheet along the edge of the wiring bundle.
  8. Doubling your amp power is good for 3 dB in gain and is LOTS cheaper. Use deadening material to lower the resonance of the sheet metal in your doors and you'll be rewarded with snappier and more extended mid-bass response from door mounted speakers. Use it on the backs of plastic panels to eliminate unwanted vibrations, etc. but don't waste your money applying it on every sheet metal surface in your vehicle.