ARRRGH Help, Driver side window WONT go UP

Discussion in 'SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech' started by derek02gt, Oct 3, 2005.

  1. this is been a Horrible week for my stang, Just got brand new Michelon Pilots and I got a flat next day ( nail) and I did Not have a spare with me. #2 As you saw in the posts, I broke my rear convertible top shattered...I got it fixed today and I had the windows down at the shop, they installed a new window for me. Well I picked up my car and their was goo-glue stuff all over my car and I was pissed but then was like "whatever". Next problem up, Now my drivers side wont go up, FIRST TIME EVER in the history of the car has it done this. I put my ear close to the button and I hear a "CLICK", "CLICK" but nothing is happening. Can someone tell me what is going on and why wont my window go up? thanks alot. I am pissed off today:p
  2. i know for foxes/sn95's you need to give the door panel of the faulty window, a little love tap, maybe more depending on how much love your tap has, to get the damn motor unstuck.
    colleen likes this.
  3. if its not the window motor which if it is bad than yes you can hit it with something then its probably the switch. But more than likly its the window motor. Heres how you can check it. Pull the door panel and take a test light and a small pick or flat tip srcew driver and hook the test light lead to the pick or screwdriver and stick the srcew driver in one terminal of the window motor connector and the test light in the other terminal. Then with the power on operate the window switch. If it lights up both ways then its the window motor, but if it doesnt light up both ways then its the switch. The connector for the window motor connector should have a yellow wire and i thing like a red with yellow tracer.
  4. Is your driver's side window all the way down?

    It happened to me several weeks ago. First time ever. I sent the window all the way down, and then it wouldn't come up. Also, it made a click noise whenever I tried to send it down, but a much quieter click when I tried to send it up.

    So, I removed the door panel, and tapped the window motor moderately hard with a screwdriver and hammer. Voila.

    So now, I'm afraid to send the window all the way down.

    I read in many posts that it's a common problem with Stangs.
    colleen likes this.
  5. I just had a DEI 530T window module installed for my two front windows and they have been sticking half-way sometimes. Anyone have any idea why this is?
  6. yeah its pretty common... the window motor/gears just gets stuck... bang on it or if that doesnt work take the motor out (its fairly easy) to get it free again...

    oh and a similar thing happened to me too... i got a flat on the interstate with no spare and then later that day my drivers window motor got jammed too.... maybe they're related problems? lol
    colleen likes this.
  7. fdfgh
    I just had this same problem with mine yesterday, I did the diagnostic thing and everything looked good so I checked on here and seen this about tapping on the motor and thought I give er' a shot and it worked for me too. :hail2:
    colleen likes this.
  8. Slam the door a couple times, wait a while... The window will usually work after that.

    If your window is hanging up on the rubber stripping it passes between as it goes down, f'n do something about it! This is usually what is causing the motor to overheat, trip the breaker, and not work for a while until the breaker auto resets.
    colleen likes this.
  9. thanks for all the help, i banged my door panel where the window motor is located and viola!, it starting working again..What can i do to prevent this in the future or is my window *always* going to do this?
  10. KT. Is this why sometimes during the summer, when the afternoon sun heats the side of my car (while parked for hours), my window fails to operate until I've had the A/C running for a while? :shrug:
    colleen likes this.
  11. i wish mine was that easy. my window would only go up half way and then pop. after that it wouldnt go up any more. took the door panel off and the track assembly had broken. that sucked
  12. Thanks, I am now my husband's hero, again. Lol. Worked like a charm
  13. When you do go buy a window motor. DO NOT buy one from Advance Auto Parts. I had to stop using them in my shop because EVERY single one of them came back under warranty. I switched to Napa or dealer motors and no more issues.
  14. Same problem here, mostly on really hot days.
  15. Something that I've not seen mentioned in this thread yet for sticking electrical windows...

    Cleaning and lubrication. Everyone who wrenches should have a tune of lithium or silicone grease hanging around the shop. A few loooooooooooooooong q-tips is a good idea too. Mechanicals behind the door panel should be lubed any time you have occasion to get in there. Doesn't take long to do this.

    Door panel switches can also be carefully taken apart, sprayed with contact cleaner, and reassembled.

    I've bought a number of window switch panels from junkyards over the years and nearly all of them failed to operate until disassembled and cleaned.

    Window motors can sometimes be resurrected as well. A little liquid wrench followed by silicone spray into the motor housing (drill a small hole if you can't find one) often works.

    Nothing will bring back a motor that has burned or broken brushes short of a rebuild or replacement.
  16. Since it is hot as H E double LL down here my driver side window wont go down at all until the interior of the car is cooler. I just push the switch up and down as fast as possible till it finally goes down,. It really is a strange thing that happens but as long as my window works Im good. So Noobz are you saying to put lithium grease directly on the switches to help with this? Also its the switches on these cars that is bad and not the motors? or can it go either way?

  17. It can go either way. On the door switches themselves, the contacts can corrode and prevent them from working. Take them apart until you see the contact and contact pads (ensure you take note of how they go back together). Clean and lubricate the contacts then reassemble. Contact cleaner works. Fingernail polish remover works. On occasion, I've had to resort to some fine sand paper to run between the contacts and pads. Then lubricate with lithium grease or a silicone based spray (I've used both, whatever was available and within reach at the time).

    I use lithium grease on all the mechanicals inside of the door panel. It takes just one stubborn joint or pivot to screw up the whole works.

    I've used the silicon spray to free up motors that were otherwise seized. Often there's a hole somewhere you can get the little straw into. Other times, I've drilled a small hole into the case (large enough to get the straw into) and sprayed the crap out of it to get things going again.

    These are just things to try before having to pull and replace door parts. I've been pretty fortunate. Only come across one window motor so far that was non-recoverable and needed to be replaced.
  18. Thanks for the tip I really appreciate it. I saw the prices for a new window motor and said nooo thanks. I wish my car had the manual roll up windows like my buddys 95 Mustang.