Bad ECT sensor causing this problem or what???

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Ah…I defaulted to a fox car in my thinking and didn’t thinkSN95 with regards to fan control.

Sure it’s not the tune? Is this a sudden change?
So I pulled the codes and key on engine off I got 511 which is eec processor ROM test failed, 117 ECT sensor circuit grounded, and 564. There is no 564 in my Chilton manual so if I recall correctly when I googled what that is I have to double check but it didn't seem like anything significant in regards to what the car is doing.

With the key on engine running I got a 998 which is a hard fought present and the 117 and there was another code but I did that test two more times and after it read the 998 and 117 when it started the third code the car cut off.

I went ahead and swapped out the ECM with the one out of the 94 cobra and started the car up and the fan is still coming right on. So with that cold 117 ECT sensor circuit grounded I may just go ahead and buy another sensor anyway even though they all had similar readings and even the one I tried in AutoZone earlier today. If it's possible the sensor is bad then worst cases I will have a new one lying around instead of the other used ones but I hope I don't have an actual ground somewhere in the wiring system from the PCM to the ECT....
 
564- fan control circuit failure
998 - operating in failure mode

You know you have some kind of fan issue so that explains that code. The 998 is most likely set due to 117 code. I have seen several threads where bare wires at or close to the ECT.
 
564- fan control circuit failure
998 - operating in failure mode

You know you have some kind of fan issue so that explains that code. The 998 is most likely set due to 117 code. I have seen several threads where bare wires at or close to the ECT.
what did they do to fix the bare wire issue? I know when I did the engine a few years ago I found the wires to the Ect plug one I believe just one was frayed so I taped it up good so it wouldn't touch the other eventually. I believe just some sheathing was broken but the wire was still intact. I played around with it today with the car running to see if there was a change in anythign or the fan turning off, ect but nothing. I really don't think that wire is an issue but still a little concerned.
 
Not there so hard to know. Get a DVM and see if any of the pins in the connector are shorted to each other.
how do I test that, ohm it out? On what setting? I'm not that familiar with a lot of the settings and such other than following a chart and such lol......

I do have actually a used pigtail that I splice in on the other car the one that got hit years ago and the harness is still good. I can definitely remove that and splice that in ( temp) to see if that solves the issue as well....
 
how do I test that, ohm it out? On what setting? I'm not that familiar with a lot of the settings and such other than following a chart and such lol......

Either resistance (ohms) or you can use continuity. Continuity will beep if the wires are part of the same circuit (shorted together)

Ohms is the horseshow and continuity looks like a speaker emitting sound. (yellow icon circles below)

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Update -
Ended up being the ECT connector. Once I started peeling the tape back I got 5 volts. Swapped to actually a used connector from my other car that looked damn good and good to go now. Through the process I learned how to pin and check a good bit of things
 
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Wait Til the car is cold. Then just look at your outdoor temp. If it's 80 degrees, then look at the resistance values for 80 or as close to whatever temp you are at.

For the ect, you are measuring resistance. Unplug the plug and measure resistance on sensor across the two plugs.


Sensors are cheap. Rockauto has a number (including motor raft) for about $20

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Moto raft lol