Engine BAMA Tune Info

[MarineDeuce]

I do get it. Thanks. Car has an AFR sensor and works just fine in the thin "air" up here. Given that octane values shift down about 0.5 point per thousand feet, my 93 octane sea level tune should be fine up here at 6000 feet on 91 octane gas. Probably why you can not even find 93 octane up here. My point is not to bash BAMA, they have been very nice every time I have spoken with them. N2O is essentially two things, properly applied, a 33% oxygen nitrogen ratio vs 20% for air and its butt cold, so higher density intake air when its fogging and it comes apart easily under combustion conditions. When I was a kid, we used to tune our old distrubutor cars at altitude on a long hill by just advancing the cap until they pinged under load and then backing them off a touch. My thing is that this altitude, along with the cars built in detonation sensor, provides a significant safety cushion in the use of nitrous and I just don't see the advantage of additional tuning at this altitude - maybe sealevel as well, I don't know. Show me some high altitude Stang data with nitrous and tunes and with nitrous alone and we can discuss this further.

 

[MarineDeuce]

Hi, did you get your Tune? BAMA is reliable in their typical 48 Hr.Window. I’d be happy to assist with that to save you some $$. Is your Inverter rated a constant duty Cycle @ 400 Watt peak output, output w/a clean Sine wave is a definite plus. In addition to Heat Pads, there’s another option..I use a specific, Cost effective thermal wrap, first. It’s superb in reducing losses & ensures linear coverage for the App., Capillary Heat transfer allows for lower Heater Cycles (Once Temp. is Stable) & broad distribution of mean Heat transfer, alleviating hot/cold spots, protects the Bottle. 2nd wrap of higher Density allows consistent circulation with little loss.
Ctrl. Circuit consists of A 555 Timer, Thermistor, FET, DIP, Pot, Cap. &. Triac, Thy., Fuseholder (Or a Chip with most components mounted in a ZIF* Socket w/external Pot & Thermistors) on a small PCB, Circuit costs 5-10$, & is auto Regulating. What size Bottle are you running?
I’ll draw it up whichever you prefer w/Part #’s, I use ‘Digi-Key’ for Components. Won’t find a better selection or prices. You have a Pencil Soldering Tool? 6-10 Watts is all you need. Too far beyond and Heat becomes an issue, unless you go with the IC Scocket & a Relay vs.Triac I keep Circuits as small as circumstances allow, but don’t mind upsizing if you prefer.(?) Will Solder Components if desired, John

* ZIF= Zero Insertion Force, pulling the little handle on Chipholder opens the steel slots where the IC pins land, Chip comes out easily, vs a STD. Chip Socket that uses physical force to get IC ‘Home”. With a ZIF Socket, Drop in the Chip and pull lever down, IC Clamps close on the IC Pins, making a solid electrical connection. Very difficult to hurt a ZIF with Heat. STD. Sockets can distort, soldering a Chip in with neither, 1 Second of Heat...much more will Damage Chip.

 

[MarineDeuce]

John, have actually gone kinda cheapo on this with a small 12 volt lap blanket, some insulation, and a remote reading stick on thermometer. It is not going to heat the bottle when it is minus 10 degrees out, but for more moderate conditions, an hour or so sees fair progress and I monitor continuously so. . .