Best Setup....

I just purchased an 89' GT that is bone stock. I really want to build the car in to a low 11 high 10 second drag radial car while keeping it street driven. While the car will not be my daily driver I still want to build a reliable setup that I can drive everyday if needed, sit in traffic, and take to the track on Friday night and still run deep in to the 11-10 second field. I do like the aspect of an all motor monster, but I am not opposed to building a blower car either. Basically I am looking for a drop-the-hammer reliable powerplant. Any suggestions on a good setup? Any help would be appreciated.
 
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Adding a power adder will help keep you more drivable. A car with a nitrous or a blower and 8- 10lbs of boost does not require near the cylinder head and camshaft a nat. aspd. motor will. And if tuned correctly will remain very reliable and safe not to mention the increased engine life due to lack of rpm's you will have to turn an all motor car all the time. (just look at NMRA Pure Street Cars)There are many different ways to build an 10-11 sec. car reliably. You just have to decide what you want to do, it all comes down to the greenbacks and what you consider streetable.
 
Adding a power adder will help keep you more drivable. A car with a nitrous or a blower and 8- 10lbs of boost does not require near the cylinder head and camshaft a nat. aspd. motor will. And if tuned correctly will remain very reliable and safe not to mention the increased engine life due to lack of rpm's you will have to turn an all motor car all the time. (just look at NMRA Pure Street Cars)There are many different ways to build an 10-11 sec. car reliably. You just have to decide what you want to do, it all comes down to the greenbacks and what you consider streetable.

Nicely said.
 
Personally i think your safest/best bet would be to get away from the thin walled stock 302 block. This means at least a 351 roller swap. You could leave it at 351 or stroke it...either way a nice HCI package on a 351 stroker will get you to at least the 11's. AFR 205's, custom cam, and RPM II intake would make for one hell of a setup. With drag radials it doesnt take all that much HP to get to the 11's if you have the proper suspension.

so first off look into full length sub frame connectors (weld in), torque box reinforcements, upper/lower control arms, and either 50/50's or 90/10's to really get the power to the ground. With a good suspension your 60' times could get into the 1.6-1.7 region easily...and really help get those ET's down.

I would think that with 400 rwhp it should be pretty easy to get deep into the 11's. If that doesnt work a nice 150 shot will surely get you there.
 
It has stock pony wheels right now, I'll be worrying about all the cosmetics later...although the car is in pretty good shape.

Anyone have an opinion on the 390 hp Ford Racing "Z" crate engine? Although it retails for just under $6200 I was thinking about something like that. Anyone know how the Z303 cam sounds compared ot the other for 303 cams?

I had the older 302 crate engine with the aluminum "Y" heads and the B303 cam, with a few upgrades I clicked off a few 12.8 second passes on drag radials in my Notchback....Souldn't have sold that one.
Bought the longblock from ford (came with aluminum Y heads and the B303 cam) and added a GT-40 upper and lower, 24lb injectors, 190lph fuel pump, and besides full exhaust the motor was otherwise stock......that was an un-tuned consistant high 12 sec car too. It was my daily driver and never gave me one problem. Does anyone think the 390hp engine would be worth the cash for a more potent setup?
 
About the same as the X. I think that engine would work well the Z heads are pretty good and with a better cam and intake is problably capable of another 40 horse or so. Plus those Ford crates seem to be pretty reliable and well built (huh reliable and 450 horse capable I'm in)