Best way to lift 69 rear end.
- Thread starter pastorboy
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Raising the ride height won't eliminate the interference. It will only make contact less frequent. It will also cause worse handling and braking, and it looks dorky.
Lift blocks only work where the axle housing sits under the leaf spring.
If you're set on raising the ride height, there is a set of leaf springs out there that is claimed to give you a one-inch rise. The claimed purpose is to make the rear match the front, which in OE form sits higher. I can't recall where I've seen these, but it was in one of those full page ads in Mustang & Fords, from Laurel or Virginia Mustang or Dallas. Not Mustangs Plus, although I wouldn't be surprised if M+ has them too.
The other ways to cure rear wheel interference are to roll the fender lips, replace the rims with a set with greater backspacing (it's always easier to buy too much backspacing and reduce it with a spacer, than it is to add backspacing, which is impossible short of machining the mounting surface), or shorten the axle tubes and shafts (way, way too expensive).
Lift blocks only work where the axle housing sits under the leaf spring.
If you're set on raising the ride height, there is a set of leaf springs out there that is claimed to give you a one-inch rise. The claimed purpose is to make the rear match the front, which in OE form sits higher. I can't recall where I've seen these, but it was in one of those full page ads in Mustang & Fords, from Laurel or Virginia Mustang or Dallas. Not Mustangs Plus, although I wouldn't be surprised if M+ has them too.
The other ways to cure rear wheel interference are to roll the fender lips, replace the rims with a set with greater backspacing (it's always easier to buy too much backspacing and reduce it with a spacer, than it is to add backspacing, which is impossible short of machining the mounting surface), or shorten the axle tubes and shafts (way, way too expensive).
HistoricMustang
Active Member
pastorboy said:
Go back to 13", 14" or max 15" as the car was designed.
HistoricMustang
www.historicmustang.com
If you had the correct size tires, 17's shouldn't be a problem. Most early Stangs were designed to use 25-26" tall tires. Wider ones require the correct wheel offset to work. Several ways to lift the rear. Best way is new springs ( if you haven't done this yet, now's the time) Other options are longer spring shackles, air shocks, or load levelers ( coil over shocks)
LMan
Founding Member
you mean the 8 inch long ones that stick out like a sore thumb? those are soo coolLMan said:
i saw a 60's model with shackles that stuck out like 5 inches below the body near where i work...that was the first thing i noticed about that car it was kinda funny.
jes72mustang
New Member
I don't know if they would fit the '68, but I have a pair of 2" lift Feaf springs sitting in my shed that I took off my '72 coupe and replaced with 1 inch lowering springs.
Hey, don't laughAlarus said:you mean the 8 inch long ones that stick out like a sore thumb? those are soo cool
i saw a 60's model with shackles that stuck out like 5 inches below the body near where i work...that was the first thing i noticed about that car it was kinda funny.
"back in the day" that was the easiset, cheapest way to accomplish lifting the rear. We didn't have the options that y'all have now to do the same. Air shocks were over a hundred a pair ( that translates to about $1000 a set in today's money) Ditto for coil-overs. And forget the aftermarket rear leafs you have today, they didn't exist then.
