Fox Foxbody rear jack points

mcalvo

Member
Mar 17, 2022
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Phoenix
Once again thank you very much for your input.
I have a set of maintenance and repair small projects to do on the rear of my foxbody. I am looking to do the least amount of damage to the car and I want to confirm or be corrected on the the rear jack points for a foxbody. We all know the rear axel is the way to go. However, I need to change the rear axel fluid since it is not leaking anymore which is letting me to believe that it is empty.

Once again, trying to avoid further damage like this post.

And this other post

Here is my driver side with some damage already
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Here is my passenger side which looks fairly OK.
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So I want to confirm the best way to place a jack stand. There is a place in front of both torque boxes.

Driver side
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And passenger side
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Is this a safe location to lift the rear of the car when I have to change the rear axel fluid?

Besides the rear axel fluid I also need to drop my fuel tank

Once again, thank you for your input.
 
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I like to lift under the third member then set the car down on two jackstands on the axle tubes.... I always use some rags under the lift and set points to prevent any damage or paint scratches....
After setting on the Jack stands you should have plenty of room to change your rear end fluid...
My Race Ramps come in pretty handy too.....
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For doing rear diff fluid, i'd chock the front wheels and put the jack under the center of the pumpkin. Make sure nothing is going to contact the cover. Jack it up, and then i'd put two jackstands on the rear subframe.

I typically put two stands here on these points. This car has subframe connectors, but if you don't have them you can put the stands here on the subframe itself. There is a folded piece of sheet metal over the subframe, so i position the stand securely there. Make sure the stand is far enough ahead to rest on the flat portion of the subframe This allows the rear axle to drop down and you can easily get in there for service.

I also throw tires under the car, and then put the jack under the diff. I also usually put another set of jackstands under the axle as well. I just want to be sure if the car comes down, plenty of stuff to catch it and hold it up

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Another 'what I would do' plan.
Jack it up by the center section of the rear axle, this will get the car as high as possible (you do have a floor jack and level ground?), Place the jack stands, if you do not have sturdy jack stands find someone with a turbo car, at the frame section behind the lower control arm where the heavy brace is riveted to the unitbody frame. The rear axle will 'droop' till the shocks 'top out'. Now you can drop the tank and service the axel. I use a 2x4 about 5" long between the stand and the frame, it spreads the load a little with no damage to frame/ brackets.
I guess I live a little more precariously than Mike above ^^, I also type slower. :nonono:
 
I'm a big fan of wood cribbing. 2x4's and 3" exterior screws. You can build them as high or as low as you want. Unlike jack stands under the axle tubes, the cribbing is under the wheels (kinda like RaceRamps) so nothing is obstructing your movement under the car.

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I have wheel cribs too. I like them but found a couple complaints.
1. It’s hard to get the car high enough to slid the cribbing under. You need to account for suspension droop.
2. It greatly impedes rolling under the car on the creeper.

I have a 2 post lift now but even if I didn’t I would probably would just use jack stands most of the time.
 
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I've done the same job that you are looking to do. I carefully jacked it up on the rear end pumpkin and then put jack stands on both the left and right axle tubes. I've done it more than once. Never had a problem.
 
buy a set of race ramps. You will thank me later. For maintenance like fluid changes it is as easy as driving up on the ramps. No jacks or jackstands and much more solid and safe.

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For jack points, if you have full length subframe connectors use them as jack points,. If not you an use the rear pads where the LCA's bolt up to with a small block of wood in between the jack and the car to spread and even the load. NEVER jack it up by the torque boxes, pinch welds or the front radiator support.
 
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I have wheel cribs too. I like them but found a couple complaints.
1. It’s hard to get the car high enough to slid the cribbing under. You need to account for suspension droop.
2. It greatly impedes rolling under the car on the creeper.

I have a 2 post lift now but even if I didn’t I would probably would just use jack stands most of the time.
One of the jacks at Harbor Freight lifts 23 inches plus high....
 
I'm a big fan of wood cribbing. 2x4's and 3" exterior screws. You can build them as high or as low as you want. Unlike jack stands under the axle tubes, the cribbing is under the wheels (kinda like RaceRamps) so nothing is obstructing your movement under the car.

December 2.JPG
I needed mine when lumber went sky high... It was more money to purchase the lumber than purchasing Race Ramps...