Better speakers, better sound?

Tubbster66

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#1
I am no audiophile by any means, but I was wondering if I just installed better quality speakers would it make it sound better and get louder? I know it’s a dumb question but I have no idea if having the factory amp and tape deck would even benefit from new speakers?

I want to maintain a stock look, just would like it to be a little louder and more clear.
 
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Dan02gt

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#2
They will definitely help. You can also add 6 1/2s in the doors if you don't have them already. I would also recommend a small amp. Several companies make tiny ones that go in line like the Alpine KTP-445u Powerpack.

If you don't add a small amp you will need high sensitivity speakers for them to get loud. Something 91 db or better. Infinity Reference series would work nicely and are cheap enough.
 

billison

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#3
Are you wanting to keep your stock head unit?

Yes, modern speakers will massively improve the system
 

CarMichael Angelo

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#5
I do this once Everytime a thread like this comes along.

Better speakers will sound better. Provisionally. The factory speakers were one way units with what is know as a " whizzer cone".
The purpose of the whizzer cone was to try and isolate the high frequency sounds from the rest that the speaker tries to reproduce. The speakers are typically resin reinforced paper and are junk after this many years.

The factory head unit is a giant piece of sht. Rated at a whopping 3 watts rms per channel. A better speaker requires more power to drive it. The specs of a late 80's/early 90's factory head unit was equally miserable, and is rated in how cleanly it will reproduce the audible frequency range that a human ear can hear. ( which is 20hz-20khz) It was somewhere around 100hz-15 kHz when it was new.

That's why they started making pwr. boosters in the 80's....people could no longer get their factory junker to get loud enough when they added a pair of Jensen Tri-axe 6x9's to their package trays.

Lastly, factory head units are rated to drive factory speakers that share a common impedance. Most aftermarket speakers are rated 4-8 ohms,.....factory stuff can be all over the place.......typically not 4 or 8.

So,.....when you add a inefficient, high resistance aftermarket speaker to a factory head unit, it sounds better than the factory speakers. It will not play as loud, it will not play as long, it will not sound as good as it would if you junk that factory piece and replace it. Even if you keep it and use that hidden system.
 

wiseguyk

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Sep 23, 2016
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#6
I would also recommend a small amp. Several companies make tiny ones that go in line like the Alpine KTP-445u Powerpack.
+1 for the Alpine power pack. I have one and I really love it. It's small enough to hide behind the factory radio which is great and also makes connecting all the speakers so much easier than with an amp in the trunk. Of course it's not gonna compete with a larger full-size 4-channel amp but I don't have the gain very high on mine and it gets plenty loud and sounds great. If you have any questions about it just let me know and I'd be happy to help :)
 

Mustang5L5

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#7
They help but don't expect a huge difference. I have alpine speakers on my stock 93 CD player and amp setup. It sounds ok, but my daily drivers stereo is still way better

I gotta look into that power pack unit. Sounds like that would do a better job than my 80 watt factory amp
 
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a91what

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#8
another large improvement will be to replace the speakers in the dash as well. if you purchase a nice set of component speakers the woofer will go into the door and the tweeter can go in the dash speaker location. using dynomat or other similar product on the door will also improve the sound
 

Tubbster66

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#9
Would the alpine in-line amp be a plug in or would I have to cut into the harness?
 

Mustang5L5

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#10
I actually bought one. Going to try to use it with my 93 CD player.

Problem is to make it plug and play I think I need to find a donor car to snip the wires into the factory head unit off, solder to the alpine kit and then use a metra harness to connect to speakers.

Should give me 45 watts per channel vs current 20 with the oem amp

Worth a shot
 
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Tubbster66

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#11
I actually bought one. Going to try to use it with my 93 CD player.


I think if I get the correct metra harness ( I think I have one already) I can solder to the alpine harness and make it a direct plug and play.

Should give me 45 watts per channel vs current 20 with the oem amp.

Worth a shot
Does it bypass the oem amp completely or install inline with it?

You should also do a write up if you do it... just sayin
 

Mustang5L5

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#12
Does it bypass the oem amp completely or install inline with it?

You should also do a write up if you do it... just sayin
Bypass. You are pretty much doubling the power output with this modern amp.

If/when i install it, i'll def post something but my install will be a little unique because 1993 stereos are wired a bit differently than 87-92. I know you however do have a '93
 

Dan02gt

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#13
Would the alpine in-line amp be a plug in or would I have to cut into the harness?
Definitely bypass the factory amp.

You might be able to use a Metra 71-1770 to come out of the factory radio and into the power pack and a Metra 70-1770 to come out of the power pack and into the factory speaker wires. I would use a 14 gauge or better dedicated power and ground wire for the power pack instead of the factory wiring.
 

Mustang5L5

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#14
You might be able to use a Metra 71-1770 to come out of the factory radio and into the power pack and a Metra 70-1770 to come out of the power pack and into the factory speaker wires.
That would work on the 87-92 cars.

1993 cars could use the 70-1770 to the factor harness, but I don't think metra makes a harness that plugs into the head unit. The speaker output wire is a funky 8-pin amp connector similar to this. Trying to find if there is a plug I can buy that will duplicate it. Same plug as the 94-00 Mach 460

47873d1380578727-mach-460-stereo-plugs-help-need-identified-image.jpg
 
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Dan02gt

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#15
How about the Metra 70-5515 for a '94 GT with the Mach 460. Looks like it might be close.
 

Mustang5L5

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#16
How about the Metra 70-5515 for a '94 GT with the Mach 460. Looks like it might be close.
Need the male plug end. That kit looks like female plug.

Metra 70-5511 is the correct kit for the 93 radio using the OEM amp, but it's also a female plug.

Basically need to find this blue wire. It's the 8-pin speaker out wire from the stock head unit to the amp

I believe the metra 70-1770 can be used for the two plugs on the right that output to the speakers. You can probably use one harness from the 71-1770 kit for the left power harness to the head unit. Just need to track down that blue wire...probably by hacking up an 94-00 Mustang at the boneyard for it.
dsc00083-jpg.jpg
 

hoopty5.0

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#17
The best stereo mod I did in my car wasn’t electronic at all - it was sound deadener.
 

Mustang5L5

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#18
Ok. Just need to get myself some wiring pigtails and I'll give this a shot

Snagged it on eBay as new-open box for $80/shipped

IMG_8745.JPG
 
Oct 24, 2017
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#19
Wow was not expecting a car audio chat here lol.

A few key buying factors for you using head unit power: note if you are not interested in learning any of the theory. Don't. Simply know it's important.

1. "Coaxial speakers" are what you want. They have a woofer/mid driver and a tweeter. Don't get too excited about gimmicky 3- four ways, .. ext. A simple appearing speaker with a little Dome Tweeter in the center, will do a fine job of accurately reproducing your favorite artist noise.

2/3. Rms power/ sensitivity these two speaker ratings coincide and work against each other. generally the more power they can handle the lower the sensitivity, and vice versa. IT IS EXTREMELY IMPORTANT TO NOTE THE alleged ratings of these numbers in no way can be used to quantify anything. Every one test their own speakers and basically make variables that should not be in there testing so they can boast great numbers. think of speaker manufacturers like engine manufacturers that can claim any torque and horsepower curves they please. It's just how it is especially on the middle to low end price range. There is a standard test the selling company will list ( some acronym I forget) "... compliant - yes/no" anything that says yes you can compare apples to apples.

Power: simply how much power you can give a speaker. Using head unit power you are uninterested in high power handling, and it will work against you.

Sensitivity: if I remember correctly this is supposed to be how many db's (how loud) it is 3ft away with 1 watt of power.

For anything that's compliant 90+ sensitivity is really good.

Key design aspects of good sensitivity/ of course also representing low power handling what is not important to you are;

Small "voice coil" 3/4 -1, higher resonant frequency/simple/light weight build design of moving parts.

all of that translates to pretty much getting louder/(still accurate) music out of a limited power source.

4. Impedance: every speaker has an impedance rating, and it's extremely important. unlike the above they are generally accurate within a window.

I don't really know it's worth a check but I would bet with confidence your stock speakers are 4 Ohms rated. This would get more long-winded than it already has if I explained it but the important thing to note is;

More ohms = less loud/amp preservation

Less ohms = more loud/amp runs hot, and can burn up.

2 ohms is at the point where your stock head unit may burn up/ cut out going into thermal protect.

3 ohms is about the happy spot. some speakers are manufactured to be 3 ohms. I strongly suggest purchasing speakers that advertise "reduced impedance" or 3 ohms.

4. Speaker baffles they are foam baskets that isolate the back of the speaker. it's gives you the effect of a sealed enclosure, helps protect the speaker from overextending itself, will give you more accurate bass response, and they cost around $10.

Put it this way, I would rather have $20 Pioneers in front of a baffle, then hundred twenty dollar Alpine's in free door air.

That's the best 2 cents I can give. Hi-5 feel free to tear this apart but, it's the best I could do for getting to the point.
 

Mustang5L5

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#20
The non premium stock 4-speaker setup had 3.2 ohms per speaker, while the premium 6 speaker setup used 6 ohm speakers
 

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