boost limits on stock block

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they ever show you how to time a 2000 S70 with the adjustable exhaust cam? i had one kick a timing belt and re timing it BLEW! never did get it right
Yup. That is actually an easy one compared to all the newer stuff they came out with. THAT is one reason I don't like to work on them. Plus the garbage brake rotors, clogged crankcase vent issues, and electrical nightmares. My list goes on and on. Nothing like crabby educated people with no common sense who do no maintenance but expect the cars to last forever.
 
Yup. That is actually an easy one compared to all the newer stuff they came out with. THAT is one reason I don't like to work on them. Plus the garbage brake rotors, clogged crankcase vent issues, and electrical nightmares. My list goes on and on. Nothing like crabby educated people with no common sense who do no maintenance but expect the cars to last forever.
haha that and the damn tensioner... i miss that car when it was running right.
 
Brosef, I dunno what hole you crawled out of, but calling people out on here isn't gonna fly for very long.#

Noobz347
Not gonna warn you again. Get along, or you're gone! You're not the be all, end all authority (as much as you'd like to think you are) on everything automotive. Feel free to offer advice, but be objective and keep the snide remarks to yourself. You revving people up on here for the sake of stroking your ego and attempting to prove to them how much smarter you think you are is not going to win you any support and certinly won't end in your favour!

GB is first on scene so I defer to his lead. Sorry it took me so long but I'm on vacation and can't get on much here. I've looked at this guy's post history and all I can do is shake my head. lol

DuDNoTcH Reel it in please. If you're unable to find a way to do that or are unable to figure out what it is that I'm talking about, then it's FAR easier to surgically remove your access to the forum than it is to play arbitrator for inflammatory posts. To me, it's not personal but a simple math problem.

Thank You,

Noobz
 
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Here's when it happened, and I still drove it 2.5 hours home. Notice I didn't miss any shifts and I never revved it past about 5900. Now....when you can chase down a Lotus Elise in a full-interior A/C-and-all foxbody Mustang with a stock K-member and quadrabind suspension like mine had at the time, while running street tires, then maybe you can tell us something about how to drive. Until then, GFY...."Mang".



Bazinga!
 
So its been a minute since I've looked over threads on stangnet. And I start looking and I see this pattern, this DuDnotch guy or whatever his username is, is like haunting Mike. I read a few threads by Mike and see the notch guy posting. I see this thread is from January, and assume it's only active again because of the notchhead, and sure enough. He's the reason why this thread is back to life. to bash again.

I'm a bit behind the times, but I thought I should say.


I'm just Loling over here.
 
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Ok im about to hand my car off to the body shop together some rust removed ... and I can focus more on my motor ... im gonna definitely boost it more then likely turbo so my question is what can the stock block with 10:1 compression handle in means of boost I know 500hp is the limit but can anyone tell me the psi limit im looking to boost around 12psi I may lower compression to keep from blowing head gaskets thanks for amy input

Necro-posting and MFE flaming aside, I ran 17psi non-intercooled on a stock block with a 10:1 Eagle assembly, aluminum heads, and 100 octane gas. No problems. I ran 13psi intercooled on a completely stock 5.0 and pushed a little coolant. Two cents.
 
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I'm glad this is back on track. There have been a few posts that really are on point. Boost is just adding air above atmospheric pressure. It’s a measure of restriction based on the flow characteristics of the motor. I.E.; my motor draws certain characteristics based on the flow characteristics such as intake, heads etc. I know it sounds a bit airy, but you’re placing more air into a cylinder and "crushing it" as you would a NA car. The stress on the heads and reciprocating assembly is increased per psi (sorry don't have physics equation down on this one). So, it depends greatly on tuning, heat dissipation, errors in machining and driving style when talking "max" boost on a stock block. Even on your set-up there could be varying combinations that would work. The European seen was running higher compression low boost motor years ago. It can be done, just take into effect that though it is a gas, air is not as easy to crush as we tend to think. It will build extra heat and it will cause added stress on tour rotating assembly.