What’s the best way to clean cylinders of old gas without taking the head apart? I dropped my tank and replaced everything last year and it was pretty nasty inside. The car was started a few years ago on probably 4-5 year old gas but not driven. After seeing the gas tank I feel like the gas lines should be replaced. I will clean the fuel rail and injectors, but how do I got about cleaning the cylinders? It’s a “freshly” rebuilt motor that was sitting for about 6 years and after seeing the tank I don’t think it’s ever gotten good gas until I swapped the tanks. It has only ever been driven probably 20 miles and started a handful of times on old gas. It’s never felt fully capable of what it should with as much is done to it.
Cleaning cylinders of old gas
- Thread starter 90FoxLX
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I bought the car off my buddy about 7 years ago after he built the motor. I ended up having the motor remounted and put a t56 in it along with a few other things but before I had it the tank that I pulled out of it last year was NASTY! He obviously didn’t take care of all the other things I’m working on. New gas lines, brake lines, PS rack, K Member soon. I’m worried that old nasty gas could have caused varnish to form in my cylinders, or is that not something to worry about?
Also how difficult is it to swap K Members on jack stands instead of a lift? I understand the concept of squaring it off and I feel like I can do it myself.
Also how difficult is it to swap K Members on jack stands instead of a lift? I understand the concept of squaring it off and I feel like I can do it myself.
So once you have swapped out the fuel system just start it up. There isn’t going to be any residual fuel in the cylinders and if there is any varnish it will quickly go away.
I swapped the k-member in the Coupe on jack stands and it came out fine. Just followed the Maximum Motorsports instructions and all good.
I swapped the k-member in the Coupe on jack stands and it came out fine. Just followed the Maximum Motorsports instructions and all good.
Glad to hear the cylinders should be good. It already has a lot of work done to it.
When you swapped K members did you use a cherry picker or engine support bar?
If your worried about your cylinders and you are really anal, you could remove the spark plugs, spray some WD 40 in each cylinder, crank the engine over a few times ( remove coil wire first), then reinstall the plugs and fire it.......
I used a heavy wall piece of pipe (want to say 1-1/2") cut to length so it fit between the fenders and rested on top of the inner fenders. Used two ratchet straps to hook onto the front motor and onto the bar to hold the motor up. Didn't think strapping under the motor from one side of the pipe to the other was smart as it could cut the strap. This was done with the transmission still in the car so the back of the motor was supported by the trans mount. Now was this the best way and the safest way? Probably not but I made a decision to stay out from under the motor and work on the sides. I had the stock k-member out and the MM k-member in the car and loosely bolted in in about 2-3 hours. It was a long day but I went from putting it up on jack stands to the k-member fully installed and the motor being supported on it. Finished up the front suspension the next day as I swapped to coil overs at the same time.
That’s a pretty quick install time. I definitely don’t want to have to pull the motor but I thought starting with the k member and moving back would probably be my best option since it need a k swap anyways. I don’t think I fully trust those support bars in that situation. I was thinking a 4*4 with some ratchet straps. I’ll probably order the k member tomorrow.
Realize I’m giving you the time it took to swap k-members not the time it took me to remove the entire front suspension and make measurements.
I would suggest you get a couple plumb bobs and clean the concrete below the car when you drop them to take measurements. I cleaned the concrete and put blue painters tape down and made my marks on the tape.
I would suggest you get a couple plumb bobs and clean the concrete below the car when you drop them to take measurements. I cleaned the concrete and put blue painters tape down and made my marks on the tape.
You'll either have to support the engine from above with chains and lift the new K member into place or remove the engine. I think it's easier to remove the engine, put it on a stand, then run a bar or piece of pipe through the K member and lift it into position with an engine hoist. Not sure how you'd be able to manage otherwise.
Here's a quick pic I took while replacing it after frame rail repair in my old car. I didn't remove any suspension, just jacked the car up, lowered the K member down and drug it out from under on a heavy piece of cardboard, then slid it back underneath and lifted into place with the engine hoist.
I’ve seen videos of people do k members swaps with only the bar and I think it would be better to pull the engine too but I don’t really have the room in my garage to pull that off.You'll either have to support the engine from above with chains and lift the new K member into place or remove the engine. I think it's easier to remove the engine, put it on a stand, then run a bar or piece of pipe through the K member and lift it into position with an engine hoist. Not sure how you'd be able to manage otherwise.
Here's a quick pic I took while replacing it after frame rail repair in my old car. I didn't remove any suspension, just jacked the car up, lowered the K member down and drug it out from under on a heavy piece of cardboard, then slid it back underneath and lifted into place with the engine hoist.
Is that really a good idea? I’ve never heard of that. But after seeing that old tank fueling a rebuilt engine it had me a little concerned. Especially since it has also sat for so long.
85GTStangGuy
Advanced Member
Yea, it's a real good idea for an engine that's been sitting a very long time.
You could also use engine oil or something like Marvel Mystery oil in the cylinders to lubricate them. Also, maybe turn the engine over by hand (via the crank pulley bolt), vs forcefully having the starter turn it over. I'd also recommend getting and using an oil priming tool.
85GTStangGuy
Advanced Member
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