Clutch Quadrant Broken?

Discussion in 'Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech' started by Ghost001, Jul 15, 2006.

  1. EDIT: Problem "fixed". Main culprit was a broken clutch cable sheath. Thanks for everyone's help!



    I'm thinking my clutch quadrant is probably broken. Also, the cable sheath is broken near the clutch housing.

    I've done lots of searches for info.

    My clutch is totally stock, like almost everything else on the car. I got the car a few months ago, and the original owner said that the clutch has never been worked on.

    I was driving last night, and suddenly I had to push really hard on the shift knob, to get it into and out of gear. Also, I heard a grinding noise when I shifted from neutral to first. It was especially hard to shift into reverse. In fact, I never successfully shifted into reverse.

    So, it seems like the clutch is not disengaging.

    With the engine off, when I push down the clutch pedal, I hear a racheting noise, and a creaking noise. Strangely though, I hear the racheting from underneath the car, rather than from underneath the dashboard. It seems like a broken clutch quadrant should make a racheting noise underneath the dashboard, but I'm just guessing. The creaking noise also comes from underneath the car.

    Here's a photo of the clutch fork, with the clutch pedal pressed all the way to the floor. Is the clutch fork supposed to travel farther than this? It travels less than an inch from the back.

    Also, the clutch cable sheath seems to be broken, near where the cable goes into the clutch housing. Unfortunately, I don't know if the sheath broke last night, or if it's been broken a long time. Here's a photo of the sheath, with the clutch pedal pressed all the way to the floor. See how the sheath is broken, and the sheath wires are flexing outward.

    It seems like a broken sheath could act like the reverse of a firewall adjuster, and making the cable more loose, which may be adding to the problem I'm having. But, because of the racheting noise, I'm guessing that the main problem is the quadrant/pawl. Here's a nice article on the subject.

    I'm leaning toward getting a new sheath, a Fiore quadrant and firewall adjuster, and a new OEM cable.

    I know I should start it, put it into 1st, push the clutch pedal all the way down, and see if it moves forward. However, I've got it on Rhino ramps, and I don't really want to attempt to get it off the Rhino ramps, and risk damaging the tranny any further.

    Do you guys agree, that it seems like the quadrant is broken?
  2. I wouldnt drive myself nuts diagnosing it - a new clutch cable, quad and FWA (for a non-adjustable clutch cable) are maintenance items IMHO (the stock quad/pawl will shear eventually).

    You have Jeremy's article so you can see what he likes.

    You could have an assistant press the clutch pedal while you watch that bad spot on the cable to see if the noise is comin from there. And you might be able to see the quad decently enough (if you're svelt). It's above the gas pedal.

    Good luck.
  3. Thanks HISSIN50.

    It occurs to me, that maybe the creaking noise, is the sound of the sheath wires flexing.

    I can see the quadrant, if I lie on my back and put my head underneath the dashboard. I haven't looked at it much, though.

    I think you're right. I may as well get the aftermarket stuff, and see if that fixes the problem.

    While I'm waiting for the parts to arrive, I may try to put some strong tape on the sheath where it's broken, to see if that helps.
  4. just push in your clutch peddle hold the quad up then pull your peddle out
  5. Thanks, kreacher5.0. I'll give that a try.
  6. I have the feeling that the noise is also the sheath, in part atleast.

    I just got a PM earlier this week asking about a bad sheath. My best thought was to try and use a hard plastic line from the home store on the sheath. I'd split it lengthwise so it can be slid on) and then I'd zip tie or worm clamp the new sheath around the old sheath and exposed part. I really dont think it'd work real well but it was the best thought I had.

    When I swapped the clutch stuff (Ford nonadjustable cable, UPR single hook quad and Extreme FWA), I think I spent about 100 beans even. In case that helps any. I forgot to look if you have LT's - if so get the longer cable.

    Good luck.
  7. Well, I wrapped duct tape around the broken sheath, and voila! Problem "fixed"!

    Patching the sheath increased the fork travel about half an inch or so, and now the clutch behaves the way it always has, since I've had the car.

    Also, the "racheting" noise went away. It still has a loud squeaking noise, but maybe that's because I've got the dust cover off, so I can now hear it better.

    I'm still going to get the aftermarket stuff, and of course replace the cable.

    Does the OEM cable come with a new sheath?

    I wonder how long it'll take for the new sheath to break?

    Apparently, it took 18 years for the old sheath to break, so I guess the new OEM sheath should be okay.

    I still think the stock quadrant may be broken, because I have to shift into 1st, before I can shift into reverse. In other words, I have to shift into neutral, let the clutch pedal up, shift into 1st, shift into neutral, let the clutch pedal up, and then shift into reverse. If I don't do all that, then I get grinding when I shift into reverse. The original owner said it's been like that a long time. I think maybe the fork is not really traveling far enough, because the quadrant is not auto-adjusting.

    Anyway, thanks for the help, guys!
  8. Nice work MacGyver. :nice:

    Last time I checked, the OEM style cables were holding up Ok (I've only had mine for a year or so). It does come with a new sheath.

    If you have a GT trans, it can be normal to shift into a forward to before engaging reverse (doing so slows the cluster down to engage reverse cleaner). But I'm pretty sure you're right and you didnt get all your travel back with the duct tape fix so your POE might be a little deeper in the pedal (toward the floor) than it was before.

    The Loud squeak: does it go away with light pedal pressure? If so, it's likely the TOB. Once the slack can all be taken out of the cable (if there is any), that should help.

    Good luck.