Interior and Upholstery Convertible Front Window Motor Replacement

89SportVert

Active Member
Jun 29, 2002
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Woodland, WA
Greetings Stangneters,

I have been coming to this site for a little over 15 years. I have asked for recommendations, goten tech help and have never been disappointed. I have searched the internet for three days looking for information about replacing the front window motors on my 89 LX Sport. I refuse to pay someone $350 per side to replace a $50-$60 motor. I must do this soon, as I have a top going on in the middle of August.

I have questions that maybe one of you that has done this before can help me with.
1. Are all 83-93 front window motors the same? (Conv - T-Top --- Coupe - Hatch)
2. Are all front regulators the same? (Same meaning)
3. What is the size of the rivets needed to replace the motor or Black Plate From Hell?
4. What size drill bit is needed to remove the rivets?
5. Are there one of two guide bushings on the window?
6. I'm going to use a rubber door stop to hold the window up.
7. Are there any special tools needed for this process? (aside from the riveting gun)
8. Do I need to remove the Black Plate From Hell or can I just drill out the rivets that hold on the motor?
9. Are there and good (complete) instructions on this process that I have not yet found?


Thank you for your time for reading and especially to those that post help.

John Winn

P.S. This is the Black Plate From Hell:

 
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General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
Mod Dude
Aug 25, 2016
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The pic didn't come through but I know what your talking about, I have replaced a lot of window motors in stangs from 67 to the fox models. There are three 8mm bolts that hold the motor, you do not have to remove the 'black plate from hell'. There is/should be a plastic clip that holds the motor wires to the inner door skin, releasing the clip helps when releasing the wire plug from the motor, you can hold the window up with tape, or a shim against the inner door skin,
I'm not sure what size the rivits are but they are large enought that you need a large rivit gun to install.
If your motors work good they just don't raise and lower the window you can replace the pucs under the drive wheel for just a few dollars, they sell them in the help section of autozone and other parts stores.
 

89SportVert

Active Member
Jun 29, 2002
278
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Woodland, WA
Oy, Yes there a ton of how to and video instructions on how to install motors on a hatchback or coupe FOX. I've seen and read most, if not all, of them. HOWEVER, a convertible has, as stated in my request for answers, unique challenges that must be overcome in order to replace the motor. I need convertible specific; instructions, directions, videos and/or experience.

Thank you for your time for reading and especially to those that post help.
 
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89SportVert

Active Member
Jun 29, 2002
278
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Woodland, WA
OK after rereading and rewatching the information it seems that I DO NOT need to remove the Black Plate from Hell. Clearly the three screws, indicated by red circles, are accessible without its removal. as demonstrated in the picture below. I would still like answers to Q's 1 and 5 Please.

Thank you for your time for reading and especially to those that post help.
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
Mod Dude
Aug 25, 2016
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polk county florida
For informational purposes only.
Vert and coupe/hatchback doors are the same. Vert doors started life as coupe/hatchback doors and were modified for verts and t tops too, they cut the window frame off and used different window glass.
As a side note (and most here already know this) ford did not 'build' the mustang convertible, it was farmed out
 

89SportVert

Active Member
Jun 29, 2002
278
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Woodland, WA
For your Information, were you to search for this to find help. As I have, for the most part, completed the driver's door.

I started by asking nine questions, well eight questions and a statement. So I will answer in order.

1. Yes...All 1987 - 1993 mustang front windows use the same motor.
2. Still unknown...But according to some part suppliers T-Top-Conv are different from Coupe-Hatch.
3. You will need eighteen 3/16" and six 1/4" rivets.
4. A good 3/16 drill will be needed. You probably need a cold chisel and sturdy hammer.
5. There is ONE rectangular bushing used per door. Square bushing are used for Coupes-Hatches and require 2 per door.
6. No idea why this was in there.
7. Aside from the drill, bits and the chisel...A piece of Steel rod is helpful to hold the regulator together as you screw the motor to it. And something to pry on the door to remove the window guide rod is helpful also.
8. Yes you must remove the black plate in order to remove the regulator. The motor can be removed just by undoing what ever fastened it to the regulator (screw/rivet).
9. NO nowhere are there instructions on how to do this on a 87-93 convertible FOX with the reinforcement plate.


After I do the passenger side I will try to refine my process and report back.
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
Mod Dude
Aug 25, 2016
20,310
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203
polk county florida
#8 I don't remember having to remove 'the black plate from hell' (don't know why it's being called that) when changing power window regulators, I've done several but it's been awhile.
#6 was to hold the window glass in place with motor removed.

91 knows I slap myself in the face often.
 

89SportVert

Active Member
Jun 29, 2002
278
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53
Woodland, WA
#8 I don't remember having to remove 'the black plate from hell' (don't know why it's being called that) when changing power window regulators, I've done several but it's been awhile.
#6 was to hold the window glass in place with motor removed.

91 knows I slap myself in the face often.


Removing the motor is easy. It is the re-installment that is difficult. You must get the motor shoved in a space that has just millimeters to spare and get the snout of the gear to engage the hole on the regulator, all the time working to mesh the gear and the regulator teeth. Apparently I suck because I can not do that. And I choose what is to me, an easier path.

Once I got everything off/out...Black reinforcement plate, window guide rod, and regulator . It went back together quickly and easily, 15 - 20 min. The 1/4 inch steel rivets were a pain. Cleaned all of the caked on old grease. Re applied a marine grease to the obvious wear spots. Now if LMR had sent me the correct rectangular window guide bushing instead of 12 square ones all would be good.
 

89SportVert

Active Member
Jun 29, 2002
278
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Woodland, WA
:scratch: I guess links with step by step instructions and a video aren't "help"


Actually, NO they are not. If i had a coupe or a hatchback then yes the videos represent a fine process to use to install the motors. HOWEVER, I own a convertible which has extra bracing in the door and all the videos on youtube DO NOT address a door like this.
:scratch: I guess the pictures and the explanations in the post were not clear enough for you?
 
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89SportVert

Active Member
Jun 29, 2002
278
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Woodland, WA
This is what the differences look like in my factory Ford Service Manual. To my eyes the doors are not the same. But I could be wrong of course, or maybe the ford engineers are wrong. I was just trying to help others that may be looking for information like I was at the the beginning of this post. You two seem to just want to troll. DONE.
Vert - T-roof.jpg
2-3-door.jpg
 

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