SN95 Engine Guys Needed


New Member
Apr 14, 2016
Hey y'all, first time posting but I need some assistance before I throw any more money at this dang build. I have a 94 GT. Engine and trans are transplant from an 88 fox I bought. Mods include: (or what I know about the engine)

351w- not sure the year
TFS Hi port aluminum heads, new springs, turnt valves
9:1 compression
Flat tappet cam
Eagle rods, probe forged pistons
1.7 comp cam roller rockers
42lb injectors
Paxton fuel pump, aluminum rails
Milled GT40 intake
Accufab 75mm TB
P1200 procharger
TKO 500 trans / Centerforce DF clutch
MSD distributor

First question: MSD distributor for the fox body with the ignition module mounted to the side and a rectangular connector while the 94 setup has a fender mounted ignition module and a circular connector that goes to the actual distributor. Now, I bought a distributor for a lightning which will work if I switch out the gear but I'd like to keep the MSD I just can't find a pinout to get this joker to work. I've tried taking off the fender mounted ignition module and jumping the wires to the one on the distributor and nothing. Not sure if a stock lighting distributor will give this engine what it needs or should I keep trying the MSD already in it.

Second question: the procharger is a driver side mount on the engine and the car needs a passenger side mount. It doesn't fit without notching the fender well and I'd have to relocate the fuse box. It's an old procharger and I believe only makes about 10-12lbs of boost. It's oil cooled and I can't get the line in with the power steering pump on. I have to make one work off a 96 with an external reservoir. I also had to switch from vacuum to hydroboost from a 96 or 99, I can't remember, to even fit the valve covers and already scratching my head about how to integrate that. I'm going to do the 99+ brake upgrade which I'm pretty sure I can tackle. I'm thinking about ditching the procharger altogether and running a twin turbo later on to save me a ridiculous amount of work. I'm guessing the engine is setup for it? How will it act if I remove it?

Third question: I've heard horror stories about a flat tappet cam, I bought the zinc additive but I won't be racing at the track. (Maybe once or twice haha) I just want a street car I can take to shows, on the weekends and bust some ass on the street if I need to. Would it be beneficial to do the hydraulic roller and cam conversion? I heard if I sit in traffic the engine could blow up. Not too keen on doing that since I have a ton of money in this thing.

Now, sorry if I sound a little uneducated, this is my first extensive build other than swaps and repair so when it comes to this stuff I prefer to reach out, I've already thrown way too much money at this thing and I just want a direction to throw it in so I can make some progress.

Thanks in advance for all of your help.
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CarMichael Angelo

clearly, I’ve got something going on in that hole
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
Birmingham, al
I can only guess at #1, got nothing for #2, but can comment authoritatively on #3.

So,..guesses first.
MSD has all of their hook up instructions on their website. There is a diagram for every possible configuration, and brand. Have you got that documentation? My guess is that the MSD distributor is a convention magnetic pick up, with a twisted green, and purple wire hanging off if it and not a TFI would require a dedicated use of the MSD ignition box if it has that.

Flat tappet cams used to only be a problem at break in. Requiring a minimum 20 minute run in at 2000+ RPM.
After that, the cam was basically good for the life of the engine. But, the new car automotive industry changed all that a couple of years back, when certain additives, specifically zinc, were found to cause catalytic converter,..the additives were removed .

What you now have is a less slippery oil, and high friction surfaces like cam lobes, and flat tappet lifter bottoms don't like less slippery. So now in light of that flat tappet cams are prone to failure. Now, not only during the break-in process, but anytime after that. There are instances of properly broken in cams that have failed at the 12k mile mark.

So, answer your last question,..yes a roller cam conversion is of multiple benefits to you,..not only in longevity, but in the case of added power as well.

Finally,....I have a question for you....

What the hell is a " turnt" valve? Do you mean twisted?
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