Engine Engine rebuild suggestions

[manicmechanic007]

One thing to remember when cutting threads
The tap or die, not only cuts threads, but it re positions (bends) the metal at the same time
It needs lubrication (cutting oil) and to be backed up a quarter turn about every 3/4 turns
Glad you got it done

 

[JulianR]

Thanks for the tip. I was smart enough to use WD-40 as cutting oil, but I learned about the 3/4 turn 1/4 turn only after, by watching youtube

 

[85GTStangGuy]

I was smart enough to use WD-40 as cutting oil, but I learned about the 3/4 turn 1/4 turn only after, by watching youtube

WD-40 probably worked okay since it was a relatively soft material you were tapping. Would not recommend it for a harder material, like steel. And absolutely not for even harder materials, like stainless steel or a hardened steel. For those, use a dedicated tapping oil, like Tap Magic or some equal.

 

[JulianR]

One more thing-- I ended up buying a new ACT and Coolant Temp Sensor from LMR. Came as a kit for under $30. Figure it's worth changing them now as long as I got everything apart.

 

[JulianR]

Alright, so went to set the lifter preload last night. Set all valves to 0 lash and after that, all 15 rockers torqued to 19 ft lbs within 1/4-1 turn. Most in 3/4 turn. However, one pushrod, on cylinder 5, I can't get to snug up. It does NOT move up and down, but it does spin kind of freely, even when the rocker is torqued to 21 ft lbs. Now, keep in mind, my lifters haven't seen oil yet, but unlike my other other lifters, I can't seem to get this one to pre-load. What are my options?

From what I can think:
1. Maybe it'll snug up once the lifters see oil and I'm overthinking it? However, it'd still be different from others.
2. I could look for a bigger pushrod, but isn't it odd to have 1 pushrod a different size? Besides, the pushrods being sold are in 0.050 increments, and I'm afraid I need something less.

What do you suggest?

 

[General karthief]

Run with it, if it ticks then deal with it,

 

[JulianR]

Hi,

Getting to the point where I can prime the engine with oil on the stand. Do I need to hook up an oil pressure gage or just simply seeing the oil come through the pushrods is enough indicator that I'll be alright?

 

[General karthief]

I stuck a mechanical gauge on but I don't recall pay'n any attention to it. Oil came out the push rods/rockers really good so I sent it, didn't think twice

 

[manicmechanic007]

You will have to put something in that oil pressure sender hole
Otherwise, all of the oil will squirt out right there
Might just as well plug the hole with a gauge if you have one
It should build some pretty big pressure if you use a drill

 

[JulianR]

there's an electronic sending unit in that hole, right? Should be plugged up with that. Only other hole is the dipstick that I already plugged in.

 

[manicmechanic007]

Right, if the sender is there you are okay to prime it

 

[manicmechanic007]

While priming
You can watch your oil level in the pan go down some as you get the filter and all the passages full of oil
I usually rotate the crank around twice and land back on 10 before so I can set the distributor later