Engine removal What am I doing Wrong????

kiddiccarus

The first widely accepted Tranny
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Dec 24, 2003
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Ok I have the block and the tranny broke free from each other, no bolts and a 1.5 inch gap between them. (1986 SVO engine, in a Merkur) The block w/oilpan still wont come free of the tranny. So far I can rotate the engine 360 and nothing will get it off of the tranny. I can see the flexplate and that is almost tore off yes tore off it is destroyed. The flywheel looks as if its still attached to the block also.

The tranny does not move with the engine and it is off of the cross member well the cross member is off of the car actually.

What am I missing or doing wrong?
 
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kiddiccarus said:
Ok I have the block and the tranny broke free from each other, no bolts and a 1.5 inch gap between them. (1986 SVO engine, in a Merkur) The block w/oilpan still wont come free of the tranny. So far I can rotate the engine 360 and nothing will get it off of the tranny. I can see the flexplate and that is almost tore off yes tore off it is destroyed. The flywheel looks as if its still attached to the block also.

The tranny does not move with the engine and it is off of the cross member well the cross member is off of the car actually.

What am I missing or doing wrong?
what do you mean by Flexplate? the motor can't have a flexplate and flywheel at the same time, only one or the other. The flywheel will stay attached to the block when you pull it out. Check for cables, wiring that may be holding you up, or make sure the input shaft on the tranny is binding on the clutch and keeping it from coming apart. And dont forget to take the starter off too.

Dr.
 
Is your tranny an auto or a 5spd? If it is an auto it will have a flexplate. The flexplate is bolted to the torque converter. You have to undo each flexplate nut. Rememeber is is only on an automatic transmission.
 
yes the one in the Merkur is auto. How do I get to these bolts? all of the bolts that connect the bell housing is off, I cannot visually see more bolts. if I had a pic of the plate I would show it. are they located on the underside of the plate?
 
If it is an auto make sure you pulled the inspection plate cover on teh bottom if it has one. If you dont then the converter will hang on the plate.

You should be able to pull the motor with the converter still on, it just slides off the auto trans input shaft.
 
Have someone lay under the tranny and bench press it up while you pull out the engine. It will probably be neccessary to rotate the crankshaft (socket wrench on the pulley in front) to slip the Torque Converter off. Or else the easy way is to unbolt the Torque conerter. As you rotate the flexplate you will see bolt heads between the flexplate and engie block. There should be 6 atleast on a 5.0 there are. The last thing is.... it is not too hard to pull the tranny with eingine, just leave them bolted together and man handle it out. Good Luck!

-Josh
 
Thanks we will try this and see what happens. I would have liked to pulled the tranny with the block, BUT we couldnt get it into the garage and we were doing all of this in 5 degree weather (no wind). We got to a stopping point since we could go no further and will get back to it on a warmer day.
 
kiddiccarus said:
Thanks we will try this and see what happens. I would have liked to pulled the tranny with the block, BUT we couldnt get it into the garage and we were doing all of this in 5 degree weather (no wind). We got to a stopping point since we could go no further and will get back to it on a warmer day.

Make sure to drain the tranny fluid as it will piss out the tailshaft if you end up yanking the engine and tranny together.
 
Past that situation, we thought that it was drained but as soon as we pulled them 1.5 inches apart my boot got an awsome coating of the coldest fluid I have ever felt. but thanks. I wish it was spring........getting a high of 10 today with more snow, looks like I will be waiting a bit lonet to go back to work on it. :(
 
kiddiccarus said:
Past that situation, we thought that it was drained but as soon as we pulled them 1.5 inches apart my boot got an awsome coating of the coldest fluid I have ever felt. but thanks. I wish it was spring........getting a high of 10 today with more snow, looks like I will be waiting a bit lonet to go back to work on it. :(

I truely feel for you. I dont have a garage so I work on the car weather permitting. I used to do the laying under the car in snow and ice working on it

And currently it is 28 deg up in Indianapolis. BUT, it is currently freezing rain and everything has a 1/4" or more coating of ice, including my '93 Probe. This oughta be fun. :nonono:
 
Can you rotate the crank with a ratchet? If so take the cover off the bottom of the bellhousing. The cover should be held in place on the bottom of the bellhousing facing the engine by 2 bolts. Have someone turn the crank slowly, while you lay under the bellhousing/engine mating area (with the bottom bellhousing cover off). As the crank is slowly being turned you should see a nut . Wrench the nut off and repeat until all the nuts are off (I think there are 4 nuts). Since you have already seperated the tranny from the engine by 2.5 inches you might be able see and remove the nuts without removing the bottom bellhousing cover.

The last time I pulled my 2.3L, (granted I had an engine hoist) I pulled engine and tranny together. I just pulled a 5.0 out of a LTD and did what you are doing. Since you already have them seperated I would continue to seperate. You must remove those torque converter nuts first. You can pull the torque converter with the tranny, but it sounds like yours maybe adversly stuck (flex plate is ruined?). If your flex plate is bent up you must be prying on it pretty damn hard. Unless you are calling the dust shield your flex plate. A flexplate is basically a flywheel for an auto (it has the teeth for the starter to turn the engine over).

Good Luck