The phone app is a nice idea but I could not get a consistent reading for the life of me. Step 2 is the driveshaft angle which is laying on the floor at that point. I'm still waiting on the proper gauge that was ordered last week. In the mean time I shoved the tail shaft to the passenger side and that vibration was better on jack stands. I think the crossmember is fine. Its something in the lateral angle on my build. Haven't driven it yet but I had it up to 60mph in 5th on jack stands with just a little driveline vibration.
I have been chasing a miss. It's consistently variable is the best description I have. Pretty bad at higher rpm's. Lot's of popping. Carb and entire ignition have been changed with no improvement. Actually seemed to be getting worse. Pulled valve covers and found 2 broken valve springs on each side. They appeared okay when I re-fired it after sitting for years but that has proven wrong. Heads only have about 35k miles on them but were redone back in 1987. They are D8OE and more of a boat anchor then engine component. Bad valve springs imply in my mind the entire valve train is suspect. I just don't see the point of piece by piece replacing items. Springs today means I find a burnt valve tomorrow. Put it all back together and now a collapsed lifter. Even if I machine the heads I still have boat anchors over my front axle.
When I started this project the the goal was to get her running around town. Reinforce weak points, redo
suspension then address engine in a year or two. I am hurting it running it as is though. A friend of mine just finished his Cutlass so what am I to do? Luckily it's tax time and my better half wants to go cruising too. Well, when this pandemic subsides that is.
I am not going to race this thing other then maybe a track day sometime. I will throw it around corners though. Handling is priority one. Eventually I want the bigger front sway bar, a rear sway bar, tubular
control arms and maybe coil overs. The v8 is about 150lbs heavier in front vs the v6. I've relocated the battery for weight as well as the battery tray being rusted out. So the new plan should include a diet.
I checked into ebay heads. Couldn't get an answer about piston to valve clearance. Couldn't get over the lack of lineage on the no name stuff. It may be fine but I cannot afford to redo this repeatedly. Looking around I was going to get the twisted wedge heads but then I read I would need the bigger combustion chambers for piston clearance. I ran across a deal on a set of Edelbrock RPM SCCA heads. I picked them up for just a few dollars more then the Chinese heads. My understanding is they are basically performer rpm non emissions with 1.94 intake valves and little/no bowl work. The 2.02 valves have interference issues with factory pistons from what I have read. Hoping these are okay as they are slightly bigger then the small valve rpm heads.
I ordered the Comp Cams XE268H kit as well. Anyone here have experience with this cam? My harmonic balancer is from 1978 and the rubber isn't really rubbery anymore. I bought a new one for a 302. I know the II was unique so hopefully this one pans out. Has anyone replaced theirs and was there fitment issues?
When I test ran up to 60mph I noticed a large puddle under the rear pumpkin. I just resealed it and was pissed at myself. I cleaned it and re ran it and puddle again after moments. I found a hole on the back side near the top. There is a dimple with a hole. The shaft of a 16p nail fits in it. No clue what caused it, other then rust. I cleaned it up and put jb weld on it. If it doesn't hold I can yank the housing from the other Cobra when I strip it's sway bar. Has anyone heard of this?