- Feb 22, 2004
- 6
- 0
- 1
Just got my car running but it’s not running right.
It’s got a stock 302 EFI out of an ‘88GT. I’ve removed the EGR and plugged fordfuelinjection.com’s three resistor module into the EGR connector. I’ve put the resistors into TAD and TAB circuit. I cleaned out the IAC pretty thoroughly (before that it wouldn’t idle at all).
Symptoms: It idles pretty well at 900 – 1000 when cold. It hunts a little when warmed up.
When I hold the throttle at a constant position pretty much anywhere in the range, the rpm will stay steady for several seconds (~3-5) and then the engine will start choking down. If I press slowly on the gas, it will bog worse and the rpm will drop until it dies. I can prevent the dying by blipping the throttle. The symptoms improve slightly as it gets up to temp but it still occurs. The plugs are sooty black with the top of the center electrode and a thin ring around the tip a light tan.
I ran the KOEO and KOER with the following results:
KOEO:
67 – Neutral Safety Circuit failure (I’ve got the transmission harness unplugged.
11 – System Passes
KOER:
94 – Thermactor Air Injection inoperative (left side)
44 – Thermactor Air Injection inoperative (right side)
33 – EGR valve opening opening not detected
1 - ??
3 - ??
The 94, 44, and 33 on the KOER are almost like I don’t have the TAD, TAB, and EGR resistors in place. If the last two are a 13 instead of a 1 and 3 then that translates to "Cannot control RPM during ER Self-Test low RPM check".
Sorry for such a long thread but I’d really appreciate any ideas you might have to solve my problem(s).
Thanks for any help you can provide,
Lawrence Perry
It’s got a stock 302 EFI out of an ‘88GT. I’ve removed the EGR and plugged fordfuelinjection.com’s three resistor module into the EGR connector. I’ve put the resistors into TAD and TAB circuit. I cleaned out the IAC pretty thoroughly (before that it wouldn’t idle at all).
Symptoms: It idles pretty well at 900 – 1000 when cold. It hunts a little when warmed up.
When I hold the throttle at a constant position pretty much anywhere in the range, the rpm will stay steady for several seconds (~3-5) and then the engine will start choking down. If I press slowly on the gas, it will bog worse and the rpm will drop until it dies. I can prevent the dying by blipping the throttle. The symptoms improve slightly as it gets up to temp but it still occurs. The plugs are sooty black with the top of the center electrode and a thin ring around the tip a light tan.
I ran the KOEO and KOER with the following results:
KOEO:
67 – Neutral Safety Circuit failure (I’ve got the transmission harness unplugged.
11 – System Passes
KOER:
94 – Thermactor Air Injection inoperative (left side)
44 – Thermactor Air Injection inoperative (right side)
33 – EGR valve opening opening not detected
1 - ??
3 - ??
The 94, 44, and 33 on the KOER are almost like I don’t have the TAD, TAB, and EGR resistors in place. If the last two are a 13 instead of a 1 and 3 then that translates to "Cannot control RPM during ER Self-Test low RPM check".
Sorry for such a long thread but I’d really appreciate any ideas you might have to solve my problem(s).
Thanks for any help you can provide,
Lawrence Perry