Fuel delivery problem?

One Owner

New Member
Aug 18, 2006
5
0
0
Quincy IL
My 88 Gt ran fine till this year. It is a bonestock 14K mile car that I bought new. I drive it at the most 2-3 times a year just to try and keep it running. This year I decided to drive it more. In early July it just refused to start. It acted like it was not getting fuel. My first thought was the 3 year old gas had gone bad. It had a Qtr tank so I added 5 gals of fresh gas. Also put some tecron cleaner in it. I did get it to fire, and drove it for about 5 miles and then it just quit and refused to start. Went home on a rollback. Been sitting in garage since cause I have been so busy with work. Today I got it running, by mostly playing with the accelerater while cranking. First it was surging then it settled down. I let it run long enough for me to have faith in driving it. Drove about 5 miles in my area and got brave enough to drive into town and fill it with fresh gas. It then went for a ride on the highway for 30 miles. It is running better but it just seems to have a bog in it. It will backfire thru the exhaust if I put too much a load on it. I have not checked fuel pressure yet, will do when the engine cools. It still starts funny with usually 2-3 times for it to fire. If I take it easy it runs fine, but if I want to hammer it, it usually rejects any of that kinda stuff and pops and bucks till I get out of it. I have checked all plugs, they are originals and look fine. Cap and rotor are original and appear good. I am thinking maybe the sock in the gas tank is clogged? Any ideas and thoughts are welcome.
Thanks
ps remember this car is unmolested, still has factory plastic on floors, none of the wheels have ever been taken off. So I am dealing with all original factory components.
 
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Well you might as well slap a new filter on there... the gas that was sitting in there for so long might have left that gummy varnish crap in the filter. Plus it's only 10 bucks :)
 
Another vote for a new filter.

Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…Codes may be present in the computer even if the Check Engine light isn’t on.

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.

See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR [[
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html

IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.

Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/detailedproductdescription.asp?3829 – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $35.

Wal-Mart may now have the LCD display scanner for less than $35
 
Thanks guys, I was not aware that there might be codes with no light on. I will check them. I forgot to mention that I did put a new fuel filter on it. You have given me some troubleshooting tips that I was not up on.
Thanks again.
 
Just a followup to the culprit. Dropped the tank, found the fuel line between the fuel pump and the fuel sending unit to be ruptured. I was amazed it ran after seeing that. Replaced and runs like new again!!
Thanks to all for the great advice! This is a very educational and fun place.
Dan